Car stalling / dying when slowing down to Idle HELP
Jun 16, 2014, 08:19 PM
#1
Car stalling / dying when slowing down to Idle HELP
Hi all,
I haven't been in possession of the car for nearly 4 years now but here is the story.
I gave my mom the car 4 years ago to store in their garage. She ended up loving it and started Daily Driving it.
We decided when it hit 60,000 miles it needed some TLC so I took it down to a well known tuning shop here in southern california. We had all the rusty bolts replaced, the suspension softened up a bit, basically had the whole car gone over.
The tuner convinced my mom at the time (once again i was not in possession) that my forge manual boost controller wasn't good enough and convinced her to buy and install an EBC pill.
had the car redyno'd and tuned (the same tuner had done the tune that was on the car) and while my mom was driving home the car started dying.
It doesn't just die when you turn it on and let it idle, It will only die if you are driving and slowly come to a stop with the clutch pressed in.
It is so bad the car is almost undriveable. I took it back to the tuner and they said they fixed it but the problem still persists and the shop is nearly a 100 mile drive away from the car. Also on the new tune the car is pushing 25 psi according to the boost gauge.
when it was always pushing 21 +- before.
Guessing it has something to do with the boost / vacuum? Also getting terrible boost flutter under load in nearly every gear.
mod list is below. Maybe some of you have experienced this and know how to fix it? was going to go back with the MBC and have them reinstall and try to fix the problem
I haven't been in possession of the car for nearly 4 years now but here is the story.
I gave my mom the car 4 years ago to store in their garage. She ended up loving it and started Daily Driving it.
We decided when it hit 60,000 miles it needed some TLC so I took it down to a well known tuning shop here in southern california. We had all the rusty bolts replaced, the suspension softened up a bit, basically had the whole car gone over.
The tuner convinced my mom at the time (once again i was not in possession) that my forge manual boost controller wasn't good enough and convinced her to buy and install an EBC pill.
had the car redyno'd and tuned (the same tuner had done the tune that was on the car) and while my mom was driving home the car started dying.
It doesn't just die when you turn it on and let it idle, It will only die if you are driving and slowly come to a stop with the clutch pressed in.
It is so bad the car is almost undriveable. I took it back to the tuner and they said they fixed it but the problem still persists and the shop is nearly a 100 mile drive away from the car. Also on the new tune the car is pushing 25 psi according to the boost gauge.
when it was always pushing 21 +- before.
Guessing it has something to do with the boost / vacuum? Also getting terrible boost flutter under load in nearly every gear.
mod list is below. Maybe some of you have experienced this and know how to fix it? was going to go back with the MBC and have them reinstall and try to fix the problem
Jun 17, 2014, 10:38 AM
#3
Sounds to me like your idle air servo controller has quit for starters. Next get your boost sorted so you are not surging under load. This is most likely due to a lazy/crap boost profile, see above post.
Last edited by wingless; Jun 17, 2014 at 10:49 AM.
Jun 17, 2014, 12:25 PM
#5
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Jun 18, 2014, 12:11 AM
#9
I have zero trust in Alfred as a tuner. I've watched him tune before and have seen multiple tunes he's done over the years. It's sloppy. I like him as a person, always been a nice guy, but his work leaves much to be desired. You should let a better tuner take a crack at it. Road Race, like someone else had said is definitely a good call. They are a stand up shop, Scott Grey was always awesome at tuning, same with Mike. You should try them out.
Jun 18, 2014, 07:55 AM
#10
So the IAC is problem #1 with that behavior and assuming no major boost leaks IMO. Fix that and it will be drivable with out having to do the clutch/gas dance coming to a stop. If I remember correctly there is a NAPA part number for the IAC that is a fraction of the cost of the Evo one and is identical.
Boost curve and drive-ability is tough for tuners to get right in every situation. Most stomp the gas in third gear, and set timing/AFR to make good numbers without blowing up.
To nail drive-ability, either you do it yourself, or pay someone to log multiple conditions and make adjustments until your getting the right boost curve/ desired target boost in every gear and RPM. I'm surprised they pushed the OE EBC set up as although I personally feel it is vastly superior to an MBC, it does take a lot more time and effort to properly set up.
Boost curve and drive-ability is tough for tuners to get right in every situation. Most stomp the gas in third gear, and set timing/AFR to make good numbers without blowing up.
To nail drive-ability, either you do it yourself, or pay someone to log multiple conditions and make adjustments until your getting the right boost curve/ desired target boost in every gear and RPM. I'm surprised they pushed the OE EBC set up as although I personally feel it is vastly superior to an MBC, it does take a lot more time and effort to properly set up.
Last edited by wingless; Jun 18, 2014 at 07:58 AM.
Jun 18, 2014, 02:39 PM
#12
I would definitely look into the IAC, but I would also look at the deposit build up on your throttle body. Even though the IAC is supposed to control idle air flow, there is some air that "slips by" the throttle blade even when it's fully shut. If it is restricted due to deposit build up, it can make the responce time of the IAC more sensitive, possibly resulting in stalling, especially when RPM's have been high (like coming off the highway and letting the clutch in). I've seen this before on an early model Porsche 996 (still had cable throttle, like our cars). At least it's a really cheap first fix. It'll only cost you the can of choke/TB cleaner. If it persists, then look hard at the IAC.
Jun 18, 2014, 06:44 PM
#13
I've been thinking about the conditions you stated, and I have another hypothesis...MAF (that is, if you still use one). It can be an idle killer if it's not reading low volumes accurately. It may even not throw a code. Doing this will definitely throw a code, but you could try disconnecting the MAF and take it on some test runs performing your problem scenario. No hard running in this state, obviously. Let me know what you find out. I'm curious to see what ails your Evo.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Jun 21, 2014, 10:47 PM
#14
I've been thinking about the conditions you stated, and I have another hypothesis...MAF (that is, if you still use one). It can be an idle killer if it's not reading low volumes accurately. It may even not throw a code. Doing this will definitely throw a code, but you could try disconnecting the MAF and take it on some test runs performing your problem scenario. No hard running in this state, obviously. Let me know what you find out. I'm curious to see what ails your Evo.
Good luck.
Good luck.
