Bmurray

iTrader: (5)

Looking for some help.. Today decided to tackle the install of my o2 dump and ported exhaust manifold. Everything was going smooth until the very last bolt of the o2 housing wanted to be a pain to get out. Finally came out, but half of it broke off into the hot side of the turbo.

I'm sure some of you have encountered this before. If so, any tips?

Or is my only option to go ahead and remove the whole turbo setup and try an easy out kit and re-tap the hole..

Please help

The bolt that snapped is the one closest to the radiator.

heavens turbo

definitely something i'm not looking forward to either. if you don't have access to a torch, and/ or a 90 degree air drill, i'm afraid it does look like it has to come out. not too much you can do in that tight space. on the Brightside, the turbo is damn near out at this point. good luck.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

take the v-band clamp:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...Np3rJ06xoQ.jpg

off from the hot side/CHRA part of the turbo. the hot side comes right off with a bit of wiggling. don't worry: the CHRA stays with the cold side. it's one, whole unit. also, there is a pin/hole that you line up when it goes back together. you can't attach it wrong. when you pull it off, wiggle gently at first and pull straight out so you don't ding the fins of the wheel.
take the whole hot side to a machine shop. they will get it out for about $20. it's SO much easier than messing with it yourself. otherwise, you're in for a couple days of misery LOL

P.S. it's 1,000,000x easier installing the O2 housing while the hotside is off.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

This is a common issue. So much heat in the hotside area that the bolts get fused (essentially) with the hotside. I've had this happen twice.

If you can find a deburring place, they have speciallty equipment for this. There is one local to me, but I don't think you're in Los Angeles.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Easy solution once it's fixed is don't use the OEM stainless bolts. Stainless sucks for anything with threads. It's most of the reason the bolts gall and get stuck.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

The OEM nuts and bolts from STM are PRICEY, but they don't seize.

Bmurray

iTrader: (5)

Appreciate it guys. Good to know this doesn't only happen to me. Lol. I'm gonna try and get the hot side off today

ridenrunwv

What material is it they make them out of that's better than stainless for high heat, threaded applications? Trying to learn something here.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

The factory hardware isn't stainless. Not sure what its made out of but it sticks to a magnet so I know they arent stainless.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

Ive had factory hardware on there both times when they snapped. It's pretty common. On both my turbo swaps, we had to get a broken bolt extracted.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, it's hard to drill like stainless. And they gall like stainless. Whatever they are they suck..

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Haha yep agreed I had this exact scenario happen on my stock snail years ago and drilling it out was no fun. Should have just dropped the hotside off at a machine shop and called it a day. Oh the memories...

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Next time the turbo comes off, I'm going to go to a bolt shop and find some high heat fasteners that are more meant for this type of application.

Bmurray

iTrader: (5)

thanks again guys. going to just pull the hotside off and take it to a machine shop i suppose. hopefully not too much involved in removing the hotside.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

a 10mm nut (i think) on the v-band. remove v-band. pull hotside off. just pull straight so you don't bump the turbine. it's a snug fit, so you may need to wiggle a bit.