I am about to burn this thing. Need some help guys!!
Nov 17, 2015, 10:02 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
I am about to burn this thing. Need some help guys!!
Background:
Evo 9 57k miles that was build about a month ago.
Block:
Ross pistons
Manley Rods
Head
Gsc s3
Gsc valve train
Turbo
pte 6262bb kit
fuel
fic2150s /e85
buschur double pumper
fuel lab fpr 43.5psi
stock ecu / SD
Now the issue just started happening last week. Basically the car was tuned by me at 30psi. Car was running great, then one day the car started to go lean while at a stop light then just shut off. Car would not turn back on. So I towed it home. Being the car was running lean at idle I assumed the primary pump went. So swapped that out. Car started back up, would idle high for 20-30secs then turn off. hmm Started it back up, stayed running if I kept my foot on the gas, the second I let off, it would die.
Ok, lets change the IAC. Swapped that out, issue remains. Maybe the stock FPR went bad (which never happens). Swapped that to a fuel lab fpr with gauge , set the base to 43.5 w/ vac line off and .. issue remains.
Boost leaked car up to 30psi, no leaks.
Swapped out the TB anyway, did nothing. Issue remains.
I adjusted the idle in ecuflash to 1298rpm and that didnt work.
Checked my plugs, they are fine.
Car doesnt break up when I rev it at all.
Does anyone have any more ideas?
Evo 9 57k miles that was build about a month ago.
Block:
Ross pistons
Manley Rods
Head
Gsc s3
Gsc valve train
Turbo
pte 6262bb kit
fuel
fic2150s /e85
buschur double pumper
fuel lab fpr 43.5psi
stock ecu / SD
Now the issue just started happening last week. Basically the car was tuned by me at 30psi. Car was running great, then one day the car started to go lean while at a stop light then just shut off. Car would not turn back on. So I towed it home. Being the car was running lean at idle I assumed the primary pump went. So swapped that out. Car started back up, would idle high for 20-30secs then turn off. hmm Started it back up, stayed running if I kept my foot on the gas, the second I let off, it would die.
Ok, lets change the IAC. Swapped that out, issue remains. Maybe the stock FPR went bad (which never happens). Swapped that to a fuel lab fpr with gauge , set the base to 43.5 w/ vac line off and .. issue remains.
Boost leaked car up to 30psi, no leaks.
Swapped out the TB anyway, did nothing. Issue remains.
I adjusted the idle in ecuflash to 1298rpm and that didnt work.
Checked my plugs, they are fine.
Car doesnt break up when I rev it at all.
Does anyone have any more ideas?
Nov 17, 2015, 04:46 PM
#6
If you can verify that you are getting fuel and spark, set your engine to TDC and check to see if your timing belt jumped teeth. Since your FPR is reading 43.5 psi, the issue is probably not fuel related. Plugs and coil packs next.
Your cam sensors and crank position sensor can all prevent proper start up as well. I would use a multimeter to check their resistance according to the service manual.
I would also remove the upper intercooler pipe and make sure there is nothing big clogging the intake track as silly as that sounds.
You can pulse the injectors to ensure they all function as well. Just make sure you don't almost burn down the house like me...hehe
-pal215
Your cam sensors and crank position sensor can all prevent proper start up as well. I would use a multimeter to check their resistance according to the service manual.
I would also remove the upper intercooler pipe and make sure there is nothing big clogging the intake track as silly as that sounds.
You can pulse the injectors to ensure they all function as well. Just make sure you don't almost burn down the house like me...hehe
-pal215
Last edited by Pal215; Nov 17, 2015 at 04:51 PM.
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Nov 18, 2015, 12:23 AM
#8
Evolved Member
Your issue is electrical related, check both driver and passenger footwels for condensation on wiring and plugs, also check both cam and crank sensor. If none of these is the problem, make sure the ecu is working properly, if you have no ecu hardware knowledge and you can't find anything wrong with it while using the software that came with it, swap ecus and see if the car starts and runs as it should taking into consideration of course the fact that the other ecu does not have your settings or mapping on it.
Marios
Marios
Nov 18, 2015, 07:39 AM
#13
Newbie
Thread Starter
Your issue is electrical related, check both driver and passenger footwels for condensation on wiring and plugs, also check both cam and crank sensor. If none of these is the problem, make sure the ecu is working properly, if you have no ecu hardware knowledge and you can't find anything wrong with it while using the software that came with it, swap ecus and see if the car starts and runs as it should taking into consideration of course the fact that the other ecu does not have your settings or mapping on it.
Marios
Marios
Swapped both cam sensors and that didnt fix it. I'll check the crank sensor for the hell of it.
Also, swapping in another ecu today.
I am with you, I think its something electrical. Just odd that something like this would happen on a car that is garaged 99% of the time. Barely driven.
I'll update later with crank sensor and ecu results
Nov 18, 2015, 10:02 AM
#15
That's what I thought while I was driving. Randomly started to stall, then turned into stalling each time I pushed in the clutch. Garaged the car for 2 months the before started driving it to see it stalling. No codes. Few days later of driving the crank sensor code popped up. Unplug the ecu to reset fuel trim. Drive car around without ac on. Should learn fuel trims again. Possible give codes in a few days.