nukleus

iTrader: (1)

I drive an '03 Evo 8 with 148K miles. I'm the second owner, first owner tracked the car. Decided to do a compression test and found 3 cylinders had low pressure (115-110-120-165). Added oil to the 3 bad cylinders and pressure went up (160-160-165).

From what I've read, the next step is the leak down test. I was planning to have my local tuner shop redo the compression to confirm and follow up with a leak down test. Does that sound right?

I'm assuming it's the piston rings and/or the cylinders. That being the case, what options do I have for repair/rebuild? I don't want to drown in debt so what are the most budget-minded options?

Thanks for any help you can give.

roni4g63

iTrader: (1)

yeah if the numbers went up that much, rings are most likely gone, if you're burning oil, it might also be your valve seals, do a leakdown test but if 3 readings are low like that and go up with oil, its most likely rings and not a headgasket, oem rebuild maybe? if you're on a budget, a step above would be MAPerformance kits, I like their 2.3 stroker, comes with manely forged 2.4 crank, manely i beams and wiesco 1400's. all for like 1600 bucks or something. goodluck let us know what you find.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

If you don't have crazy power goals for the car, just do a simple rebuild. Put regular wiseco pistons on the stock rods, get the crank polished, fresh bearings, rebuild the head, replace the oil and water pumps, and get the oil cooler flushed out. You could upgrade the rods to some eagle hbeams, but it's not necessary if you're not trying to do power upgrades.

That being said; does the car burn oil? Does it have drive ability or starting issues?

nukleus

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, you guys rock.

The car doesn't burn oil or have any starting/reliability issues. Actually, car works great as far as I can tell. Seems a slightly weaker in acceleration than when I bought the car though. Not really noticeable really.

I was toying with the idea of a 2.3L build, but this is my daily commuter and concerned about reliability. Plus, doesn't the transmission and ecu need to be tuned for a 2.3L build to work?

I don't drag or race this car and don't plan to. Although making around 350hp would be pretty sick. Suggestions?

nukleus

iTrader: (1)

If I wanted to make 350 to 400hp, would suggest the eagle hbeams?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

yes. Only because I'm sure you'll eventually get the bug for a turbo upgrade. And the extra $350 for rods while its apart isn't really a whole lot. Consider cams and valve springs while its apart as well.

evo8vz

h beam rods tend to have almost stock like durability since they are lighter if torque is going to stay under 450 you are fine with h veam

I would also go with standard acl non tri metal bearings seen this set up go over 100,000 miles on 4 evos. I beam I notice bearings tend to wear ouy quicker but bettet rods.

nukleus

iTrader: (1)

I contacted my local shop for an estimate on a standard rebuild. They said it would cost anywhere from $7,000 to $10,000. The engine removal and replacement is $2,500 and machine shop could be anywhere from $500 to $1,500. Is this the average price of a rebuild?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I feel like $7,000 would be on the high end of what you want to do. What shop did you call?

drive955i

iTrader: (6)

$7000 for a rebuild seems high. I mean, you can buy a built short block for around $3000-3500. Swapping your cylinder head over and accessories, oil pump & pan will cost extra, of course, but it doesn't sound like they equal up. I'd rather buy a built short block that's been built by 4G63 specialists than take it to the local independent shop for a stock rebuild.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Cylinder head needs to be rebuilt also. That's about $300-400 part/labor/machine work usually. At his mileage I would replace the oil pump, timing components, water pump, get the oil cooler flushed (doesn't need replaced, no catastrophic failure), etc.


It might be smart to replace the clutch while its out too. I could see it being a $6,000-$7,000 job once his core ships back to whoever built the short block, he pays taxes, and yada yada yada. **** adds up quick.

saxon

iTrader: (10)

buy a good known condition long block and have an evo specific shop swap it out for you.

sell yours for $1,000 to help cover the labor costs

Cal City Evo

iTrader: (13)

Where in California are you? If you are in Socal call KT motoring (747 224 0237). It will still be expensive but less so than you were quoted.

nukleus

iTrader: (1)

I'm in Northern Cal, but at this point, I'm willing to give anything a try. Thanks!

Merle

Jesus. I paid 1200 for labor pulling it out and putting it in. machine shop to bore 20 over, line bore and clean it all up was 300.
Then I went with a full oem gasket kit, I beams, weico 1400hd, ACL Race bearings, ARP 625 head studs and ARP 2000 for all the other fasteners.