Just got my rebuilt motor had some questions.
Oct 27, 2016, 09:20 PM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Just got my rebuilt motor had some questions.
Just got my motor back from the machine shop after a complete rebuilt. 03 evolution 8.
-185 pounds of compression
-8:8:1 compression ratio
-Manley pistons
-manly h beam rods
-balancer shaft deleted
-fully balanced
-stock crank and cams
Questions are
-what power will this motor take?
-185 pound of compression isn't stock is it?
-what boost will this handle?
-if this is anything special do I need a tune right away? Last thing I wanna do is screw up a brand new motor.
Sorry for the questions this is the first motor I've actually had built so I wanna make sure everything is right. Thanks for any help.
-185 pounds of compression
-8:8:1 compression ratio
-Manley pistons
-manly h beam rods
-balancer shaft deleted
-fully balanced
-stock crank and cams
Questions are
-what power will this motor take?
-185 pound of compression isn't stock is it?
-what boost will this handle?
-if this is anything special do I need a tune right away? Last thing I wanna do is screw up a brand new motor.
Sorry for the questions this is the first motor I've actually had built so I wanna make sure everything is right. Thanks for any help.
Oct 27, 2016, 10:16 PM
#5
It would be wise to get at least a base map from a reputable tuner so that you can seat the rings and drive around town without having to worry about big problems running lean or rich. I personally wouldn't start the car without a base map. Depending on the size of the injectors it may not start anyway. If you are still on stock tune and injectors you will be fine for a while, but it is not optimal (too rich).
-pal215
Oct 27, 2016, 10:19 PM
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
I would agree with this.
It would be wise to get at least a base map from a reputable tuner so that you can seat the rings and drive around town without having to worry about big problems running lean or rich. I personally wouldn't start the car without a base map. Depending on the size of the injectors it may not start anyway. If you are still on stock tune and injectors you will be fine for a while, but it is not optimal (too rich).
-pal215
It would be wise to get at least a base map from a reputable tuner so that you can seat the rings and drive around town without having to worry about big problems running lean or rich. I personally wouldn't start the car without a base map. Depending on the size of the injectors it may not start anyway. If you are still on stock tune and injectors you will be fine for a while, but it is not optimal (too rich).
-pal215
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Oct 28, 2016, 07:24 AM
#8
Yeah really what you need a base map that you can WOT at though; you need to seat the rings.
The break in procedure I've used on several motors is the following:
First, you will want to use conventional 5-30, and a half a pint of
lucas break in additive, unless you are using specific bradd penn break in oil.
1. Once assembled and ready to start the car, give everything a good once over. Checking all fluid
levels and wiring connectors
2. Cycle the key a few times to let the fuel pump prime
3. Hold gas pedal to the floor (this shuts off the injectors) and crank for 10-15 seconds. This will
build some oil pressure as well as continue to get fuel right to the fuel rail
4. Start the engine, and let it idle until the engine is up to operating temp, while doing this,
monitor your afrs, fuel trims, and keep an eye on fluid levels, to make sure there are no leaks
5. After the engine has reached operating temp, let her cool a little and change the oil.
6. Once the new oil is in, take the car for a ride varying rpm with lots of decel and staying out of
boost, repeat for 20 miles
7. After 20 miles, you can start giving it more load getting right to positive boost pressure, no more
than 1-2 psi though, and lots of decel engine breaking. Repeat this for 100 miles, and then
change the oil
8. After 100 miles, start giving it more and more engine load getting upward of 5-10psi until you
get to 500 miles.
9. Once you reach 500 miles, change the oil, and now you can start doing some wot logs of
wastegate spring pressure. You can do spring pressure pulls until you reach 1000 miles. At 1000
miles change the oil again, and you are ready to run a quality motor oil. I like to use 5-50 motor
oil. And then you can start tuning for power.
Had a lot of success with this method. There are all sorts of ways of doing it...but you NEED a good base map that will not overboost.
The break in procedure I've used on several motors is the following:
First, you will want to use conventional 5-30, and a half a pint of
lucas break in additive, unless you are using specific bradd penn break in oil.
1. Once assembled and ready to start the car, give everything a good once over. Checking all fluid
levels and wiring connectors
2. Cycle the key a few times to let the fuel pump prime
3. Hold gas pedal to the floor (this shuts off the injectors) and crank for 10-15 seconds. This will
build some oil pressure as well as continue to get fuel right to the fuel rail
4. Start the engine, and let it idle until the engine is up to operating temp, while doing this,
monitor your afrs, fuel trims, and keep an eye on fluid levels, to make sure there are no leaks
5. After the engine has reached operating temp, let her cool a little and change the oil.
6. Once the new oil is in, take the car for a ride varying rpm with lots of decel and staying out of
boost, repeat for 20 miles
7. After 20 miles, you can start giving it more load getting right to positive boost pressure, no more
than 1-2 psi though, and lots of decel engine breaking. Repeat this for 100 miles, and then
change the oil
8. After 100 miles, start giving it more and more engine load getting upward of 5-10psi until you
get to 500 miles.
9. Once you reach 500 miles, change the oil, and now you can start doing some wot logs of
wastegate spring pressure. You can do spring pressure pulls until you reach 1000 miles. At 1000
miles change the oil again, and you are ready to run a quality motor oil. I like to use 5-50 motor
oil. And then you can start tuning for power.
Had a lot of success with this method. There are all sorts of ways of doing it...but you NEED a good base map that will not overboost.
Oct 28, 2016, 08:12 AM
#9
Yeah really what you need a base map that you can WOT at though; you need to seat the rings.
The break in procedure I've used on several motors is the following:
First, you will want to use conventional 5-30, and a half a pint of
lucas break in additive, unless you are using specific bradd penn break in oil.
1. Once assembled and ready to start the car, give everything a good once over. Checking all fluid
levels and wiring connectors
2. Cycle the key a few times to let the fuel pump prime
3. Hold gas pedal to the floor (this shuts off the injectors) and crank for 10-15 seconds. This will
build some oil pressure as well as continue to get fuel right to the fuel rail
4. Start the engine, and let it idle until the engine is up to operating temp, while doing this,
monitor your afrs, fuel trims, and keep an eye on fluid levels, to make sure there are no leaks
5. After the engine has reached operating temp, let her cool a little and change the oil.
6. Once the new oil is in, take the car for a ride varying rpm with lots of decel and staying out of
boost, repeat for 20 miles
7. After 20 miles, you can start giving it more load getting right to positive boost pressure, no more
than 1-2 psi though, and lots of decel engine breaking. Repeat this for 100 miles, and then
change the oil
8. After 100 miles, start giving it more and more engine load getting upward of 5-10psi until you
get to 500 miles.
9. Once you reach 500 miles, change the oil, and now you can start doing some wot logs of
wastegate spring pressure. You can do spring pressure pulls until you reach 1000 miles. At 1000
miles change the oil again, and you are ready to run a quality motor oil. I like to use 5-50 motor
oil. And then you can start tuning for power.
Had a lot of success with this method. There are all sorts of ways of doing it...but you NEED a good base map that will not overboost.
The break in procedure I've used on several motors is the following:
First, you will want to use conventional 5-30, and a half a pint of
lucas break in additive, unless you are using specific bradd penn break in oil.
1. Once assembled and ready to start the car, give everything a good once over. Checking all fluid
levels and wiring connectors
2. Cycle the key a few times to let the fuel pump prime
3. Hold gas pedal to the floor (this shuts off the injectors) and crank for 10-15 seconds. This will
build some oil pressure as well as continue to get fuel right to the fuel rail
4. Start the engine, and let it idle until the engine is up to operating temp, while doing this,
monitor your afrs, fuel trims, and keep an eye on fluid levels, to make sure there are no leaks
5. After the engine has reached operating temp, let her cool a little and change the oil.
6. Once the new oil is in, take the car for a ride varying rpm with lots of decel and staying out of
boost, repeat for 20 miles
7. After 20 miles, you can start giving it more load getting right to positive boost pressure, no more
than 1-2 psi though, and lots of decel engine breaking. Repeat this for 100 miles, and then
change the oil
8. After 100 miles, start giving it more and more engine load getting upward of 5-10psi until you
get to 500 miles.
9. Once you reach 500 miles, change the oil, and now you can start doing some wot logs of
wastegate spring pressure. You can do spring pressure pulls until you reach 1000 miles. At 1000
miles change the oil again, and you are ready to run a quality motor oil. I like to use 5-50 motor
oil. And then you can start tuning for power.
Had a lot of success with this method. There are all sorts of ways of doing it...but you NEED a good base map that will not overboost.
Oct 28, 2016, 08:18 AM
#10
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Yea I have a break in that I'm soppossed to follow so I think I'm gonna follow that. But thanks for that info. I'm gonna call English racing down by Portland and see what they have to say about what I have going on before I even start the car.
Oct 28, 2016, 08:27 AM
#12
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Oct 28, 2016, 08:43 AM
#13
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Sounds like you got a stock rebuild. 8.8:1 compression is stock. So it shouldn't need tuned.
I wouldn't push those Hbeams much past 550wtq.
I wouldn't push those Hbeams much past 550wtq.
Oct 28, 2016, 08:55 AM
#15
Evolving Member
Thread Starter