4b11slayer

So the car isn't over heating?
Get some temp readings with infrared guage or a logger.

Is the car equipped with ac still?

chassis87

no car does not overheat, factory dash gauge reads normal,

I do not have an infrared gauge, a logger how?

yes car does have AC.

Evo8cy

A 12 inch mishimoto fan does not push the same cfm of air as the stock unit. It is advertised around 1200cfm but it actually pushes around 1000 cfm at 2000rpm. Stock unit pushes 2500+ cfm at 2000rpm.

With a half radiator and 35-40 celcius in the summer, assuming you still run an a/c condenser as well, especially in traffic behind exhaust fumes, or under hard and long acceleration on a spirited drive, the 12 inch mishi fan will need to be working constantly to keep the temps at reasonable levels. The control module tends to overheat and damage its circuitry if its constantly on, i.e if you use an ecu unit that keeps it on all the time. Also the unit is added weight when there is actually no need for it.


About the plug, the plug you use now is to mate up with the control unit, when you remove the module, you'll need to use a two piece plug, with one piece attached to the harness and the other attached to the fan wires.





Marios

barneyb

It sounds like you lost the controller. Last summer I noticed my fan running all of the time. I think always on is a default if the controller fails.

Evo8cy

The stock ecu controls the fan module based on the temperature signals it gets from the temp sensor behind the thermostat housing. It turns the module on and off and switches in between high and low speeds. If the module fails partially and does not respond to the ecu's signals to turn off, it stays on, either on high or low speed, until the internal circuitry fails completely and the fan will not kick in at all. The same failure will happen if you intentionally adjust the setting in an ecu to keep the module on , all the time.








Marios

german_evoVII

Evo7 Fan control modules are prone to fail, mostly due to an cold solder inside the module.

Most of the time they start to fail when you remove the big 3pin connector..

After you plug it in again, the trouble starts 2 or 3 weeks later...or instant...

Also the fan runs 8 seconds after engine off until the ecu itself shutting down...or instant on after ignition on with not fully warmed up engine... thats the signs of an broken Fan Controller.
Sometimes the fan will randomly cycle with engine off.

Replace it with an evo 8 / 9 unit, same spec, but Cold solder junction improved...

Here in Germany almost ANY evo 7 fan controller has failed over the years...

Evo8cy

Over the years I have seen equally both 7 or 8 modules fail at the same rate. I own an evo 8 i.e, and mine has also failed. I have seen none of the evo 9 ones fail as of yet though.






Marios

german_evoVII

The USDM 2003 and 2004 using the old style module, as well as early Evo 8 RHD and some EDM

The newer design one was introduced in production in September/Oktober 2004

So, in EDM and USD Market these cars come onto the street end of 2004.( Called 2005´s...)

In our cutomer base we had zero Evo8 FAN ECU Fails.....maybe we are lucky...but there was also an service bulletin, so maybe the dealers changed it by default

Evo8cy

Yes I do also believe the design of the inner circuit, along with materials used has been updated on a second version of the module as the evo 9 ones have no failures as of yet. I do know that evo 8 in the US was introduced in 2003 as well along with the rest of the world and early 8s carried the same module as evo 7s, I know mine was the evo 7 version and that was part of my point when I said that evo 8 ones also fail, whether that being jdm, edm or usdm.

The other part of the point I wanted to stress comes to contradiction to what you say and to the belief I had up to the point I saw the first 8mr one fail. So it is possible that although two revisions, evo 7 vs evo 8, are apparent, that there was even further improvement on the evo 9 module.








Marios

lonestarr20

Take the cheapest route first, replace the ECT sensor, it is possible you have a OPEN CIRCUIT.

Evo9_Dubai

A Tactrix 1.3 or 2.0 and Ecuflash.
Our winter is usually 25-28 celsius and summer goes up to 42-48 degrees. And so far so good. Although never tested in traffic since it isn't my daily.

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

Are you running straight water with water wetter?

I've ran a half size radiator and I see ambient temps of triple digits at high altitude in the summer(which means even less air density). I don't know how well the mishimoto fan actually works but if it doesn't push that many CFM or isn't running at full speed it's not going to work as well.

Also keep in mind the factory gauge isn't very accurate, it can be in the middle and temperatures can fluctuate pretty substantially but still not really change much on the needle. By going to a lower temp thermostat but also going down in radiator size won't necessarily mean the car is going to run super cold. I've found once things are up to temp they aren't going to change much unless your cursing at a fast speed with cold air out. Of course there are other factors that come into play such as fuel type.


It's too much but it's not going to make it cool any worse, it's simply wasteful and doesn't do anything more.

Going to water/anti-freeze combo will be less effective for heat removal and transfer compared to what he's running now if he is indeed using straight water.

Removing the controller may help and the radiator cap won't do anything unless he's having the system boiling off into the overflow.

Boostin_hard

iTrader: (12)

its bc of the condenser. don't waste money and replace module and all that blah blah.

barneyb

"Also the fan runs 8 seconds after engine off until the ecu itself shutting down...or instant on after ignition on with not fully warmed up engine... thats the signs of an broken Fan Controller."

I'd say if it has these exact symptoms with the stock motor then it can't be anything but the controller. If not, then something else. Simple.

Evo9_Dubai

A friend of mine had a broken fan controller, and it would stay on after he switched his car off. And it would randomly go on and off when the car is running.

Also, removing your condenser will allow more air to the radiator. I am running my half rad with the condenser, although I never used the AC since I owned the car for 5-6 years now. Considering removing it.