Take a journey into my Tranny - let's see what we find
Jan 6, 2017, 09:41 PM
#31
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by razorlab
Shoot with a circular polarizing filter and you can dial out the shine/glare.
Jan 7, 2017, 09:46 AM
#35
so here are a couple of tips and i will leave you.
transmission parts wear into each other. it takes a lot of time for a new tranny to work in and become smooth. so when you replace parts well mated to each other you can end up with a fresh build that feels notchy and takes forever to break in. and second creates more heat cause parts are no longer worn into each other and starting over.
second you are confused about why your gears are so dirty? there is only one thing that makes gears dark. GEAR WEAR. so either the gear oil you are using is not protecting the gears well enough, or you are not changing the oil often enough. there is a tremendous amount of metal to metal contact in a normally functioning trans. ad HP beyond its design and guess what? clearly from your your comments you dont have a good handle on how a transmission woks. thus my comment. there are 50 places you can make an amateur mistake. it only takes one to make the venture not worth it.
but good luck just the same...
transmission parts wear into each other. it takes a lot of time for a new tranny to work in and become smooth. so when you replace parts well mated to each other you can end up with a fresh build that feels notchy and takes forever to break in. and second creates more heat cause parts are no longer worn into each other and starting over.
second you are confused about why your gears are so dirty? there is only one thing that makes gears dark. GEAR WEAR. so either the gear oil you are using is not protecting the gears well enough, or you are not changing the oil often enough. there is a tremendous amount of metal to metal contact in a normally functioning trans. ad HP beyond its design and guess what? clearly from your your comments you dont have a good handle on how a transmission woks. thus my comment. there are 50 places you can make an amateur mistake. it only takes one to make the venture not worth it.
but good luck just the same...
Jan 7, 2017, 10:28 AM
#36
so here are a couple of tips and i will leave you.
transmission parts wear into each other. it takes a lot of time for a new tranny to work in and become smooth. so when you replace parts well mated to each other you can end up with a fresh build that feels notchy and takes forever to break in. and second creates more heat cause parts are no longer worn into each other and starting over.
second you are confused about why your gears are so dirty? there is only one thing that makes gears dark. GEAR WEAR. so either the gear oil you are using is not protecting the gears well enough, or you are not changing the oil often enough. there is a tremendous amount of metal to metal contact in a normally functioning trans. ad HP beyond its design and guess what? clearly from your your comments you dont have a good handle on how a transmission woks. thus my comment. there are 50 places you can make an amateur mistake. it only takes one to make the venture not worth it.
but good luck just the same...
transmission parts wear into each other. it takes a lot of time for a new tranny to work in and become smooth. so when you replace parts well mated to each other you can end up with a fresh build that feels notchy and takes forever to break in. and second creates more heat cause parts are no longer worn into each other and starting over.
second you are confused about why your gears are so dirty? there is only one thing that makes gears dark. GEAR WEAR. so either the gear oil you are using is not protecting the gears well enough, or you are not changing the oil often enough. there is a tremendous amount of metal to metal contact in a normally functioning trans. ad HP beyond its design and guess what? clearly from your your comments you dont have a good handle on how a transmission woks. thus my comment. there are 50 places you can make an amateur mistake. it only takes one to make the venture not worth it.
but good luck just the same...
I never claimed to be a transmission expert, just that I've built ~5 transmissions in my past with no problems and all of them required breaking down shafts checking clearances, checking orientation of hubs/sliders, etc.
I never once had any problem or discolored fluid until TRE rebuilt this tranny 2 years ago.
To date, I have changed the fluid in this TRE transmission 5-6 times in 15k miles, all with well known and suggested fluids.
I also daily drive with zero track use, so I am as gentle on the car as they come. I have no idea why the fluid residue is so dark, but I'm addressing it.
I also understand parts need time to bed-in and smooth out, no worries there, I am not expecting a silky smooth tranny from day one.
I can tell you that from day 1 I complained about 2nd and 3rd to Jon and 15k miles later and a second trip to TRE it has never been resolved, so I'm taking matters into my own hands.
I also suspect the CC stage 2 clutch may have somehow contributed to the problem, although it did disengage adequately, it never "felt" right to me...even after bleeding 10 times, changing the master and slave cylinders.
Again, I appreciate your tips, I hope you keep providing them because they not only help me, but help others reading this as well. I notice you have been a great contributer to this forum and many people value your opinion. I have also always contributed on every Mitsubishi forum I've ever been on, including this one, many times, I will continue to contribute the best way I can.
I will post my outcome whether I succeed or fail, I'm far to old to be embarrassed.
Thanks for the tips, and keep them coming!
Jan 10, 2017, 03:39 PM
#39
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Did you figure out where all the aluminum in the oil is coming from? Did you take the center diff apart?
Jan 10, 2017, 03:59 PM
#40
I did not, I found some metallic paste residue on the hubs internal teeth and anything that was pressed on. I'm guessing a new shaft in combination with new pressed on cluster components create quite a bit of residue as they are pressed together and wear in.
I haven't opened the center diff, really wasn't planning on it since I really don't suspect anything wrong there. I will flush it out and check for smooth and quiet operation before I reinstall.
Do you suspect there may be an issue there?
Jan 10, 2017, 04:19 PM
#41
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Was it metallic paste, or assembly lube? Jon uses a high moly content assembly lube that "looks" metallic.
The spider gears ride on thrust washers against the center diff housing; their may be wear in there. So I would take it apart. Make sure you note which gear goes where, and which thrust washer goes where. There is a spec for the backlash of those spider gears, and the thrust washers are available in various sizes to adjust it. So if things are mixed up when it goes back together, the backlash will be changed.
The spider gears ride on thrust washers against the center diff housing; their may be wear in there. So I would take it apart. Make sure you note which gear goes where, and which thrust washer goes where. There is a spec for the backlash of those spider gears, and the thrust washers are available in various sizes to adjust it. So if things are mixed up when it goes back together, the backlash will be changed.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jan 10, 2017 at 04:35 PM.
Jan 10, 2017, 04:24 PM
#42
Was it metallic paste, or assembly lube? Jon uses a high moly content assembly lube that "looks" metallic.
The spider gears a ride on thrust washer against the center diff housing, their may be wear in there. So I would take it apart. Make sure you note which gear goes where, and which thrust washer goes where. There is a spec for backlash of those spider gears, and the thrust washers are available I various sizes to adjust it. So if things are mixed up when it goes back together, the backlash will be changed.
The spider gears a ride on thrust washer against the center diff housing, their may be wear in there. So I would take it apart. Make sure you note which gear goes where, and which thrust washer goes where. There is a spec for backlash of those spider gears, and the thrust washers are available I various sizes to adjust it. So if things are mixed up when it goes back together, the backlash will be changed.
Good point, I'll pull apart the diff and inspect it for wear.
Stay tuned.
Last edited by tsitalon1; Jan 10, 2017 at 04:56 PM.
