evoterp

iTrader: (3)

I've been reading a lot on the stock rotors and how they warp. I too have fallen victim, and like many have had them turned. Only to have the problem start again (after 2000miles). I've also tried to remedy the problem with hard breaking (pad transfer)

The reason for this post is to get an idea of all the people who've gone to aftermarket rotors and successfully got rid of this warpage/pad transfer problem.

Please repond with the brand name and how long you've been using the new rotors.

I would like the purpose of this thread to compile all the success stories of the type of aftermarket rotor and the mileage you are at.

thanks

evoterp

iTrader: (3)

bump...anyone?

AUSS1E

iTrader: (15)

Wrong area, but I have drilled and slotted rotors from **************
Real inexpensive rotors but I am very pleased with them.
They have not warped in over 10000miles, although the appearance of them hasnt held up as I would expect more expensive ones to, I would buy them again.

evoterp

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!

Moderators please move this thread to Evo Tires wheels breaks and suspension.

Apologies.

dan628

iTrader: (5)

You should try searching the "tires, wheels, and brakes" forum. I haven't read too much about the problem that you mention.... Mine work fine.

oak2207

I've got 44k miles now and am still on the stock original rotors and pads. I get this "warping" problem too. Enough to where the whole car shakes if I use the brakes at like 60mph or something. However, I don't think it's the actual rotors warping, rather pad transfer like you said. There's HUGE debates on that and there's an article on the web but I can't remember the url, so just google it. I usualy get the poblem when I have to make a hard stop, and then sit at a light or something, hence giving the hot pads time to transfer. It takes a good while to fix it, but here's my method:

1) Begin with light stops with more pedal time. So what I mean is start braking WAY early, but very lightly. My method here is to start "chipping" away at the pad material.
2) Then I get heavier and heavier with the braking. So eventually the stops will be light at first, then harder as I get closer to stopping. For example, stopping from 60mph would be like this: light on the pedal 'til about 40, then hard to about 20, then light again to cool it off.
3) Make sure that once your stopped, you don't sit still with your foot on the brake. And once you are stopped, either let it roll a little bit with the slope of the road or something. The main point here is to not let it transfer again.

I have to do this once every couple of months, or if I'm on the brakes hard. And it takes a good couple of weeks to get the brakes to where they're smooth again. But like I said, I'm at 44k miles with the original pads and rotors and this seems to work for me. Granted I don't race or track the car, but I do go on the occasional mountain run and I've worked 'em hard enough to cover the entire car in brake dust. So maybe before you spend a lot of $$ on new brakes, try to work on the ones you still have. Good luck!

eve-slow

iTrader: (68)

I have a set of Rotorpros slotted and dimpled for sale. Pm if interested.

Dr. SS

iTrader: (10)

i start to get pad transfer every so often, i just take it on the freeway to 80+ mph (when its not crowded of course) and do some hardcore stops while getting into an exit down to 20 mph hours or so, do that about 10-11 times, and it will smoothen out, i just got done doing it, now i can apply light pressure to the brakes at 80+ mph and its smooth as glass... try it...

its usually all pad transfer.

also make sure your lugnuts are not overtorqued, that will really warp your rotors.

TxEvo8

iTrader: (5)

I think that the blame for rotor "warpage" needs to be more focused on the driver, if you don't sit on your brakes after heating them up, then you will not experience pad transfer. The first thing that comes to mind is changing the habits of the driver, especially if the situation re-emerges so quickly after turning the rotors. I'm not saying that this is what is happening in your case, and in some cases, depending on the topography of the area, this is not a feasible option either. What I suggest is to look at your personal driving habits to see if they need to be adjusted.

oak2207

Yep, this too. Took mine to Discount to get 'em balanced, and I got the "warped" rotors soon afterwords. When it wouldn't go away with my usual warped rotor fix, I checked the lugs, there was 1 WAY over torqued, and 1 WAY under torqued on each wheel. How they manage to do that with an air wrench I'm not sure.

evoterp

iTrader: (3)

After I turned my rotors, I changed my driving habits. I was e-braking at stop lights when I thought that the rotors may be hot, allowing them to cool. When the pulsing came back I immediately thought pad transfer, so I went out there and did some aggressive stopping to no improvement. I think rotors initially have to be kept taken care of from the beginning. I remember when I first got the car I would just keep the pedal on the brake after hard breaking. Now that I think on it, that is probably what ruined the rotors initially. Now I'm trying to repair a broken horse. I figure with the next set of rotors I will properly take care of them, and allow them to cool off when they are hot. Next pair will be something slotted and drilled (Brembos) to allow quick even cooling, that is as long as I keep the heavy foot off the brake pedal.

I will note the responses and hope for the best. Thanks!

evoterp

iTrader: (3)

This is good technique. I'll try this out. I figure with 32k on mine, this will be my last attempt before the new set.

oak2207

Yeah you're probably right about needing to be taken care of from the start. Luckily I was on this board before I bought my Evo, so I knew that the brakes and clutch were the parts I needed to worry about the most. So I've been easy on both of those since day 1. Doesn't make it as much fun to drive (44k miles and not one launch) but I can't afford to keep replacing these parts so I have no choice.