Srt4...

iTrader: (7)

I'm at the point where i need to get my evo tuned. About to throw on a etc ic and bushcar lower piping. Was curious which dyno ( dynojet, dynopack, mustang dyno...) would provide the most accurate numbers. Also I' located in detroit mi and trying to decide between ams or buschar for tuning... they are about the same distance. Which would you guys recommend for the best value and cost

inco9nito99

iTrader: (90)

If you really want an answer to this question, Mustang Dyno. BUT the most efficient way of knowing if a certain mod made a diff is to stick with one dyno so you can see actual gains with a reference point.

SHIFTT IX MR

dynojet, although, its been awhile and i could be wrong. i'm pretty sure dynojet can be, or are, chassis dynos which measure actual power put to the pavement.

as for accuracy, either can be accurate because a dyno's main purpose is as a tool used for tuning, and to gauge the difference in power/torque from adding different parts, or changing varibles within the tune.

going from one type of dyno to another can be misleading becuase each reads power input differently.

Johnboy1065

iTrader: (6)

mustang dyno, it's a load bearing dyno that simulates the road better than a dynojet.

Shacochis06

+1 on a load bearing dyno...you can get tuned on a dynojet but once u start driving it on the street its a diffrent story

BBS

iTrader: (18)

But if the operator is a devious piece of **** then it really doesn't matter what dyno you use.

AutoMotoSports

iTrader: (42)

its not as much the dyno as it is the operator and how it is setup and more importantly how good the tuner is.

this could turn into a HUGE flame war on a topic like this but for arguments sake dont look at the tool as much as the person whom is using it. Make your decision off of that.

We always take a car out on the street after we tune it to make sure there are no changes.....there rarely are but we still always do it.

Eric

Tnnrx7

iTrader: (3)

Thats the way to do it.

The dyno puts a "false" simulation on the tires amongst other things, and just the environment being compared to being on the street.

Thats why I prefer a street tune, plus it's cheaper, but Dyno tunes are great as well...specially to get your numbers.

EvoJoeIX

iTrader: (16)

what do you mean most accurate?
most accurate for what?

every dyno is different. its just how it is. all you need to know is the difference in power you make( tuned pull- baseline).

what is weird and what always confused me is horsepower and torque are calculated by mathmatical formulas. how come every dyno calculates them different? i made a topic on that very long ago, and no one could ever answer it. no one knew

ECS Performance

iTrader: (2)

Well said Eric. I see too many people arguing over "low"/"high" numbers when, in reality, it's all relative. A dyno is a tool, it's as simple as that. What's important to us, is the change in numbers after a vehicle is tuned. Even then, it's still important to do a road test. There are numerous variables involved in producing the final numbers and, therefore, said numbers aren't always accurate. For example, we were tuning a WRX the other day on a DynaPack and noticed that the numbers seemed a bit low. After speaking with the shop owner/dyno operator we determined that the humidity setting on the dyno was wrong. We changed the setting, and picked up 20 AWHP on the next run...no changes to the tune.

fastkevin

iTrader: (11)

If this transaltes to "which one will show the most power"?..I can't help you. As a dyno owner, and trained/certified operator, I can tell you that pretty much all the prominent dynos are accurate. I believe it's Factory that uses different computation, and therefore reads much lower than Dynojet for instance, but it's still "Accurate". Poor maintenance on the other hand, can make a huge difference and give inconsistent reads.
Peak numbers are bull****. For charting power, the "gain" is the only relevant number. You baseline you car, then you go back to the same dyno every time you make a change. The increase (or decrease) should be your only concern, and the only way it's accurate, is if it's from the same dyno

xiaoni420

iTrader: (32)

So true.