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Evo's Rust Issues [MEGA MERGE]

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Old Oct 3, 2003, 06:54 PM
  #136  
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Originally posted by evomk8
If a sufficient amount of owners write to the NHTSA, they will start an investigation. If they find that the rust negatively affects the bumper assembly integrity (duh) they will likely rule it a safety hazard and require a recall.
So, forget the lawsuit stuff, just write to the NHTSA. More effective and forces real action by to improve their production process.
It would be helpful if you document the process of submitting information to the National Highway Safety Administration. I for one don't know about this process - yet.

With respect to your assertion that this will get action, I can only agree. With sufficient time the integrity of this area will be compromised thus defeating the purpose of the rear beam.
Old Oct 4, 2003, 12:36 AM
  #137  
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Start here:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
Old Oct 5, 2003, 06:32 PM
  #138  
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well since the 04s are already on their way here from japan, it probably won't be remedied until the 05 models. guess that takes the evo out of the market for my next car if I'm staying in this rain/snow climate area where rust is more prone than say, the desert.

Last edited by JRock; Oct 5, 2003 at 06:36 PM.
Old Oct 5, 2003, 06:59 PM
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Originally posted by JRock
well since the 04s are already on their way here from japan, it probably won't be remedied until the 05 models. guess that takes the evo out of the market for my next car if I'm staying in this rain/snow climate area where rust is more prone than say, the desert.
It is a simple fix but I will admit I have never owned a car that I had to seal seams, treat rust, paint, etc - at delivery!

This said, now that I own the Evo I wouldn't trade it because of these issues. On the other hand had I known I most likely would have decided not to purchase the car.

I dumped the new generation Subaru because of what I consider a fatal design flaw in the timing belt design. (The driver's side head was killed due to a failed tensioner.) Thus a STi wasn't in the cards as this problem is also present in the STi's engine.

I can go on about other cars. It seems like everything has problems these days. I believe one has to make a decision about the reality of the problem, how easy it is to resolve and the manufacture's support.
Old Oct 5, 2003, 08:30 PM
  #140  
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strat - that's exactly my position. I'm looking at potential cars for my next car. i was pretty dead-set on an Evo8 but I can't bring myself to spend most of my possible car budget on a car with such ridiculous issues. Yes, it's an awesome car and all that, but it's also terrible quality control and until I see Mitsu taking active steps to remedy those issues, I doubt I'd buy one.

Tell me more about the timing belt issue with the Subaru when you get a chance, as I test drove a WRX and enjoyed it and it is on my list of possibles although I don't like the exhaust note lol.
Old Oct 5, 2003, 08:58 PM
  #141  
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Originally posted by JRock
strat - that's exactly my position. I'm looking at potential cars for my next car. i was pretty dead-set on an Evo8 but I can't bring myself to spend most of my possible car budget on a car with such ridiculous issues. Yes, it's an awesome car and all that, but it's also terrible quality control and until I see Mitsu taking active steps to remedy those issues, I doubt I'd buy one.

Tell me more about the timing belt issue with the Subaru when you get a chance, as I test drove a WRX and enjoyed it and it is on my list of possibles although I don't like the exhaust note lol.
With respect to the Evo I should add the scratches in the paint which I assume were the dealer until I found that cars in other states have the same scratches in the same locations (e.g. trunk lid). Also I denote that the trim (scuff plates) for the front doors were also cut (e.g. like they were installed prior to installing the seats - and the operator dragged the mounting rails across the plastic when installing the seats).

I test drove a Mitsubishi many years ago. My thought was it is all about the engine. To a large extent my thoughts are similar today.

With respect to the Subaru the timing belt tensioner can fail to support the belt tension when cold. This in turn permits the left side cam to rotate in relationship to the crank shaft, just enough to permit contact between the piston crown and valves. Turns out that this is a common problem which seems to reappear over the last few years of production. Subaru didn't want to fix the car at first given that it only made noise when cold. The issue was that the head was damaged over time (e.g. loss of compression). Note that I expected immediate failure. Obviously the tensioner shouldn't let the belt relax so far as to permit this to occur. Poor design.

Yes Subaru finally fixed the problem, but only after a great deal of pain. I won't own another one, not only because of the design, but the lack of support (wouldn't admit that there was a problem until it died.)

The latter point seems to be a common theme with Japan products. Or did I miss something?
Old Oct 5, 2003, 09:16 PM
  #142  
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Never had a problem with a Honda/Acura product but then again all their cars are pretty boring these days. Same with Toyota/Lexus.

It seems in order to have a quality Japanese car you gotta have a mediocre car.

Yes, I love the engine in the Evo and its performance, but that's all I love about it. I've grown less fond of its look/design, and the quality control is atrocious.

Subaru is not much different apparently.

Have they remedied the tensioner problem now on the 04 models or not?
Old Oct 6, 2003, 05:18 AM
  #143  
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Well guys (gals) i have been reading this thread since it started and i cant believe how perfect some think that every car will or should be once you buy it. There are a few out there that have enough sense to think otherwise.
I Personally have had and dont have any problems with my car. I went in KNOWING i was buying a mitsu. It isnt a mercedes, bmw or whatever. The point im trying to make is i wanted a solid performance vehicle for the street i can have fun with. Along with making modifications to a vehicle that for the most part can handle a great deal of power without having the worries of a N/A to F/I conversion.
The rust issue is pretty evident on many of the vehicles. I pulled mine off this weekend and found nothting but a paint outline which supports the prior theory mentioned it was painted when already assembled.
I took the opportunity i had with the bumper off, to make some urethane flanges to sandwich between the two mounting points on the support to the unibody. This along with tar and wax remover, primer sealer and undercoating the area will prevent the area from being affected ever again.
If anyone is interested i will post some pics of the urethane and welcome to purchase some that i have already made.
Anyway, on a side note i am very happy with the car and the quality of the entire vehicle.
Its feels like some no matter what they have are never happy
Old Oct 6, 2003, 05:37 AM
  #144  
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Originally posted by perfworks

Its feels like some no matter what they have are never happy
My only point is that there are "stupid" mistakes by Mitsubishi's engineers. It appears that the big stuff is well in hand.

BMW and Porsche have their problems as well. And in their case the "big stuff" has over time not been handled well by engineering and manufacturing.

Back to the subject of this thread. I don't think that an insulator is required between the two parts as they are more or less identical materials - without regard to what was said above. Primer, paint and maybe protective wax is all that is required. And that is more than the factory provided in this area....
Old Oct 6, 2003, 08:14 AM
  #145  
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Originally posted by strat


My only point is that there are "stupid" mistakes by Mitsubishi's engineers. It appears that the big stuff is well in hand.

BMW and Porsche have their problems as well. And in their case the "big stuff" has over time not been handled well by engineering and manufacturing.

Back to the subject of this thread. I don't think that an insulator is required between the two parts as they are more or less identical materials - without regard to what was said above. Primer, paint and maybe protective wax is all that is required. And that is more than the factory provided in this area....
I was Not pointing out one individual. But i appreciate the responce in an adult tone. Second the reason for the "insulator" is because this will prevent any gauging, scratches or the sort when reassembling. The metal will no sit flat; it also will keep moisture out of the area completely. It is overkill but it is the way i think most times to solve the problem.
I can also attest to the problems with porsche. $90,000 mostly hand assembled vehicles have their issues as well.
Old Oct 6, 2003, 09:59 AM
  #146  
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Originally posted by perfworks

I was Not pointing out one individual. But i appreciate the responce in an adult tone. Second the reason for the "insulator" is because this will prevent any gauging, scratches or the sort when reassembling. The metal will no sit flat; it also will keep moisture out of the area completely. It is overkill but it is the way i think most times to solve the problem.
I can also attest to the problems with porsche. $90,000 mostly hand assembled vehicles have their issues as well.
To be honest I thought about the paint on paint interface as well. I took the two surfaces down flat and didn't kill the paint on reassembly. This is a reason to do the job and not subcontract it, as well as the fear of overspray in a body shop. (There is nothing wrong with excess when it comes to solving a problem....)

Note that the front beam is prepainted prior to assembly thus in general the same problem doesn't exist.
Old Oct 6, 2003, 04:09 PM
  #147  
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What I wonder is though, what other key parts of the frame were put together before they were coated.
Old Oct 6, 2003, 05:37 PM
  #148  
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Hey guys...i juss signed up for this forum cuz i was really interested. I've been wanting an evo for quite a while...and my uncle is planning on buying me one. I've read this entire forum, and from wat i've read, i'm not sure anymore of what to do. Not only that, I live in Canada, and here there is ALOT of snow lol. I'd like to ask you people out there for your opinoins? cuz im only 16, so im not sure waht to do....can u guys help me?? thx alot =)
Old Oct 6, 2003, 07:20 PM
  #149  
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Originally posted by EVowanter!
Hey guys...i juss signed up for this forum cuz i was really interested. I've been wanting an evo for quite a while...and my uncle is planning on buying me one. I've read this entire forum, and from wat i've read, i'm not sure anymore of what to do. Not only that, I live in Canada, and here there is ALOT of snow lol. I'd like to ask you people out there for your opinoins? cuz im only 16, so im not sure waht to do....can u guys help me?? thx alot =)
your in a weird postion/
no matter what car you shop for the harder you dig the more dirt you'll find. Its just your interpretation of it all. You like it you buy it, but some take these defects seriously. Whats weird is that doesn't send out a recall for this. I absolutly believe that its their fault and should cover all defects under warranty. Now when they do send out recalls for this what sucks is that when you bring your Evo in for the rusting problem naturally wants to fix this problem in a way in which is least costly as possible. This is when i get nervous( this happened to my maxima) they take your car to the cheapest autobody and repair it, leaving your car with a bunch of curious turbo stalkers awaiting the chance to ride your car. My maxima was sent to a shop for a repair for some rust, and my car never drove the same, and that was a maxima imagine a Evo! for the most part its a thought, but its sure a possability.

ohh yeah bottomline Evowanter if someone is buying it for you get that **** and spend your money on mods and some rustoleum j\k
Old Oct 7, 2003, 11:02 AM
  #150  
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So I called Mitsu (1-800-MIT-SU2002) and I spoke to someone, who then handed me to a case specialist, who assigned me a file number, and said that she would contact the service manager at my local Mitsu dealer and that he will make sure that this issue is resolved. Honestly, I think I'd rather just take the beam off myself, sand it down where it's rutsed, prime it, and cover it w/rustoleum, wait for it to dry, and re-assebmble. Pics of my rust is here, car has a May 2003 build date, I've had it for just over 2 months, less than 1000 miles
http://www.freek.com/~dorqus/rust/


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