MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

Basis:
Apex Silver 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution MR w/SE Package
~55k miles

This car is currently for sale here

Motor:
• Full built at 43k miles.
• 4G64 modified block (oil/water lines) along with modification to fit the GRP Aluminum Rods
• Manley Revised edition 33lbs Crank. Shot peened, Nitrided, Magnafluxed, Knife edged, Billet Crank shaft.
• New bearings all around
• GRP Light Weight Aluminum 156mm Long-Rods (1200HP+ rated)
• ACL race rod bearings
• Wiseco HD1400 Forged 10.5:1 compression pistons (1400HP+ rated)
• New timing belt, oil pump/pickup, water pump
• Turbo-Trix Racing Ported/Polished head
• Supertech double-valve spring full valve train kit
• Stock valves/size
• GSC S3 Camshafts
• RalliArt Coolant Thermostat
• HKS Oil Thermostat
• OBX racing light weight aluminum alternator pulley
• OBX racing light weight aluminum accessory pulley
• ATI Super Damper Crank pulley with Timing gear
• AEM adjustable Exhaust cam gear
• Magnus V5 Cast Intake manifold
• Garrett 4" core intercooler with Buschur end tanks (3.8" true. Top painted flat black to match the stock look) with factory front bumper brace delete (makes up weight)
• Perrin high-flow fuel rail
• Precision 1200cc Injectors
• Intank Walbro 255 fuel pump.
• Turbo-Trix Racing Full fuel supply line upgrade
• Additional Inline Walbro 255 fuel pump
• Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
• GT Spec Cast Upgraded tubular turbo manifold (lighter than OEM)
• Worlds First Ported/Revised Forced Performance Black (FP Black) Turbo charger converted to Ball Bearing via Owen Developments. (The stock wastegate exhaust port has been completely modified and ported out. The flap has been removed. See mod directly below that has to be done after this).
• MAP Comp-Gate40 O2 Housing with TurboSmart Wastegate w/1Bar spring and 3D contoured flange.
• Tial Blow-Off-Valve Version1
• Spark Tech coil-on-plug ignition (non-cdi)
• Turbo-Trix Racing short-route upper intercooler pipe (stainless steel for less heat-soak)
• Turbo-Trix Racing custom lower intercooler pipe routed around dump pipe and AMS oil Pan (also stainless steel)
• STM 4" intake pipe connected to turbo with a 3.5" to 4" 45 degree bend. Other end has a 4" to 4.5" adapter to sport the Perrin 4.5" Foam filter.
• AMS Oil pan with neo magnet drain plug (holds 5+qts oil)
• Buschur Oil Catch system with Oil Return dip stick tube (block breather) and valve cover breather inlets.
• Kiggly 15psi head oil pressure regulator
• PWR Aluminum Radiator (lighter than OEM and better cooling)
• Turbo XS Full 3" Downpipe
• MilSpec Full 3" hollowed out Catalytic converter (now test pipe)
• Greddy Full Titanium 3"+ Cat-back exhaust. Baffle can be put in to eliminate some sound (obviously flow is heavily restricted)
• Carbon fiber radiator panel shroud for additional radiator cooling
• Ingals engine stiffy torque damper
• Stock EvoIX Ecu with Tephra 7 Mod as spare (tune not finalized, but it made ~520hp/500tq on DynoJet before being finished)
• AEM EMS Series 2 currently being fine tuned. Car is in my tuners hands. He is using it as his commuter car to sort out ALL kinks with any partial throttle.
• Omni 4 Bar MAP Sensor
• Greddy Profec II Spec B Boost Solenoid (not the controller) plugged into stock ECU
• Innovate XD16 LC 1 Air/Fuel gauge kit.
• AEM (GM) Air temp sensor in upper-intercooler pipe wired into MAF plug for stock ECU input of air temp.
• Motor uses Amsoil Dominator 10w30

Suspension/Chassis:
• Coilovers: Ohlins Road & Track DFV with swapped springs front-to-back, back-to-front 10k/12k, & Top Front Camber Plates
• Corner Balanced/Aligned
• Carbing 6-point underbody brace (painted flat black for stealth)
• Cusco front bumper brace painted flat black for stealth (replaces the OEM 15lb brace with a <5lb brace)
• Rear Mitsubishi Aluminum trunk end brace
• Modified OEM Front sway bar, has had an additional hole drilled for adjustability between stiff/soft. Currently set to stiff.
• Rear Hotchkis sway bar (25mm hollow) has 3 adjustments soft/med/hard. Center visible section painted flat black for stealth. Currently set to stiff.
• DC Sport Titanium front upper strut bar (lighter than OEM)
• DC Sport Titanium rear upper strut bar (this plus the front are still lighter than the OEM front alone)
• White line bump steer correction kit
• White line roll center correction kit
• Full Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushing kit ALL around
• Enkei RPF1 17x9 +25 (15.9lbs a piece!)
• Front 20mm spacer for Caliper clearance. All wheels are same offset. Fully rotate-able.
• 265/40/17 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tires (kind of big for the 9" wide's... These tires run wide... these are more like 275. When they run out, I'll be putting 255's on)
• Front and rear fenders rolled

Drivetrain:
• Redline Lightweight Gear oil for Transmission
• Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof front/rear differential fluid
• Full built Shepherd 6 speed transmission with upgraded 4.09 Final Drive gear
• Full built Shepherd front transfer case with Quaife front Limmited Slip Differential
• Exedy triple disc HD clutch (revised) with the light weight flywheel.
• AWD Performance 2-Piece light-weight drive shaft (15lbs lighter than OEM. Rear section is aluminum)
• Buschur Racing solid aluminum rear differential mounts
• Buschur Racing rear mustache bar eliminator (both buschur products shave another 15lbs)

Brakes:
• 2 piece (aluminum centercap) front slotted girodisc rotors (lighter than OEM)
• 2 piece (aluminum centercap) rear slotted girodisc rotors (much lighter than OEM)
• Girodisc steel braided brake lines front/back
• Motul RBF 660 brake fluid
• Weapon R Brake master cylinder brace
• EBC Blue Stuff Race pads front/rear
• Binary Brake Duct inlets with 2" High-Temp Silicone ducting for front rotors

Audio:
• Pioneer DEH-P6200BT Headunit (Bluetooth installed. Mic installed above rear-view mirror)
• OEM interior speakers
• Pioneer GM-D9500F 4 Channel 800w Amp powering OEM interior speakers
• Pioneer GM-D7500M 1 Channel Mono-Block 800w Amp for Sub
• JL 10" Sub in Spare-Wheel storage area under trunk mat
• 1 Farad Monster power cap in trunk. 0-1 Gauge Monster cable ran to power distributor
• 6 Monster cable RCA's ran from head-unit area to trunk for amps.
• Stinger Remote wire ran from fuse box to trunk
• 0-1 Gauge Monster cable ground ran to ground distributor in trunk
• Light weight Battery relocated to trunk for easier power distribution.
• Monster Cable speaker wire for all 4 interior speakers and sub.

Interior/Engine Bay:
• 2 Gauge pillar pod (has STRI Fuel Pressure & STRI Oil pressure, all at 52mm with amber color for OEM look) also has a Custom Installed (controllable via AEM EMS) Bright White LED light connected to the engine light output so that you can either set it as Knock light (Tephra v7 mod) or shift light/knock light (AEM EMS)
• 2 Gauge autometer steering column pod (has LC1 Wide band Air/Fuel ratio, and STRI 30psi Boost gauge both 52mm also amber colored)
• 3 Gauge carbon fiber center console kit with STRI Volt, STRI oil temp, STRI water temp all 52mm and amber colored
• All STRI Guages have Peak/Warn ability/button
• Acura RSX 6 speed shift knob (no short shifter, in fact its longer for a quicker shift-knob-to-steering-wheel action. (lighter than the OEM shifter... by a few grams )
• Leather center elbow rest with red stitching to match seats (custom sewn/fitted)
• Matching Carbon Fiber Spark Plug + Cam Gear cover.

Exterior:
• JDM rear evo 9 Bumper (with rear 15lbs bumper brace delete)
• JDM evo 7 "red" tail lights
• UK style "E V O L U T I O N - I X - M R" badging (actual chrome plated plastic as in the OEM emblems)
• Silver Agency power short stubby antenna
(updated regularly)

In process of getting a heavy tune.

evilempire18

iTrader: (3)

Damn!!!!!!!

SRToad4

iTrader: (6)

So what you're trying to say is that you drive a bone stock Evo

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

Damn right!!! hahaha

ROFLLL you just made me LOL for real. :P
Funny thing is, it looks bone stock. Check the pics. (linked text in post)

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

The only thing I really debate on my build... The coil overs. At the time I just got them to lower the car and save weight. After doing research... I really got the wrong set for road race/track days/auto x.

I will be going to either Ohlins, KW3's, or another company with custom spring rate/dampening. Not looking to spend much more than $2-$3k. The D2's were FANTASTIC for 900 bucks though. Insane bang for buck. I'd buy them again if I were a drag racer without a doubt. And they don't drive half bad either. Just not great on negative travel, and dampening adjustment.

mega-z

iTrader: (13)

Nice modz! what kinda of power she makin?

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

Well... I'm actually still waiting on some transmission parts to come in, and the turbo to arrive. Once those are in, he's getting strapped down. (His name is TK, As in Thanos David Kavas... My best friend RIP)

I expect a tad under 600 whp on pump gas on a dyno jet. And ~700 on race gas. (Translating to anything around 700-850 at the crank... that **** scares me. Hope nothing breaks LOL)

dbsears

iTrader: (37)

Nice mod list but with all that money involved I'm a bit confused with the OBX intercooler and Injen LICP. Intercooler isn't a very good core and the Injen LICP is barely any better than stock. Have you considered a full 3in o2 housing as well? Something similar to what Shearer offers.

evo<3

iTrader: (7)

wow i dont even wanna know how much $$ that all cost... actually i kinda do if your not willing to post to the public just pm me im quite curious lol but thats alot of stuff ahahah

DeeezNuuuts83

Is this the right forum for your post?

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

I am definitely shopping around for a garrett core intercooler. Same size, I don't need a 4". 3.5" thick is more than enough. I really want response/spool. The thing is, I'd much rather try my buddies intercooler (buschur core... basically a garrett) before I bother because all this hype about heatsoak and efficiency is so minor, I need to be sure it's worth it in the long run. I'll be logging temps and doing dyno pulls with them. As for the lower intercooler pipe. The reason I held off on that was because I wasn't sure what I was going to do with my turbo setup. I was going to do an HTA3586R Twin Scroll for a while, but then changed my mind. Now I'm stuck with that pipe. I will have Turbo Trix do a lower one as well very soon once the FP Black BB comes in. For the o2 housing, that also, will be custom fabbed by Tubro Trix soon to be a full matched 3" to the downpipe. Really in the end, the things you are mentioning are just metal parts. I understand flow very well... but the differences in swapping those 3 parts are going to make a non-justifiable difference. (which was the reason I didn't bother spending the money at the time to begin with). But hey, if spending 600+ on an intercooler for you is in your forte... then thats your forte. I'm still going to wait to see the differences before I make that decision.

Hope that answers your questions.

What do you mean?

dbsears

iTrader: (37)

Well I too understand flow quite well...it's part of my job With that said, I think you will be surprised with your intercooler findings. OBX is a inferior core with terrible fin density. Making back to back pulls at the level you will be at your IAT's are going to sky rocket. I don't consider it a "forte" spending $600+ on an intercooler, I consider it more of a preventative item for proper efficiency. A 3.5in or 3.8in garrett will definately show differences as shown many times before.

I didn't mean to nit pick, I just seen a slew of top tier parts and a few odd ball items on there I wouldn't have thought that would be included on a 10k+ build. Be surprised how a few parts can ruin power output at those levels.

06MREvo

iTrader: (90)

I agree with this...he spends the time & $$ on sending an FP Black overseas to be converted to BB and the tons of other stuff on this car but doesn't want to spend the $$ on a quality intercooler with a 3.8 garret core like BR or CBRD...doesn't make sense to me...oh well...your car...whatever floats your boat...

Also in your picture thread...Why would you turn the intake upside down & put the air filter at the bottom like that? I don't see how it would get any cooler air being down there...if anything I would be afraid of water being sucked up or the air filter getting real dirty real quick...

I see your in NY & have TT doing all your work for you...Where will you be road racing/Autox this car?? I live in NJ, thats why I was asking...

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

What exactly is your job other than the nit picking?
And hey... I'm sure I'll be surprised after the back to back pulls with a Garrett and mine... after all, that's why I am going to do the tests I mentioned. I'm no idiot... and probably know a nice chunk more than you think I do judging by how your judging and speaking to me. I just want to do a real life comparison. There are just certain parts that I don't see necessary for upgrading until I see it with my eyes. Is that hard to understand? Because this is the second time I'm saying it now. People underestimate what a vehicle is. Just because you don't have the "Most efficient intercooler" and "matching o2 housing" etc... doesn't mean it won't function, and it doesn't mean it'll break. My car isn't going to be on KILL mode 24/7 like most of this communities tunes. My car is no dyno queen, and I don't care for numbers. I care for response. If you want to nit pick HP figures on your car that's one thing. I quite frankly don't care. I play with ranges. Hence the massive range of a bill i spent on my car. Now if the range of an efficient intercooler makes a nice chunk of a difference (which really I wouldn't be surprised if it does...) you can bet your bunz I'll be slapping a Garrett on and tossing the OBX in the trash. I just don't care. I understand your point, but the amount your stressing someone elses car just makes me wonder. State it, get some feedback... leave it alone. Listen if you want to buy me a Garrett... I'll give you my mailing address. Until then, I'll be doing a lot of back to back pulls and have plentttty of labor to deal with other than an intercooler.

I ship a turbo oversease to finish it up because I have no turbo. Intercooler... that I do have. Thank you very much.

I did not turn my intake upside down. That is part of an upper intercooler pipe that I had left over after TTrix re-did my upper intercooler pipe. I don't have the injen intake anymore, and needed something to put a filter on. I can't even use that on my FP Black when it comes in because the FP Red it was on was the old style smaller inlet. But feel free to nit pick some more I don't blame you, you didn't know the story behind it... well at least now you do. And I've driven it in the rain and gone through plenty-o-puddles to come home and find out my filter was dry as a whistle. You can be scared of sucking up water, but knowledged in knowing you won't is a different story.

TT does the work I can't do. The Shop CT as well (but they are far for me, so if the car isn't running, I cant really take it to the shop ct).
I have been spending heavy hours on simulators on different watkins glenn layouts.
I hear NJ Motorsports has some availability.

I'm not really going to do much more than that. Trying to keep it simple and have a steady track to go to, so that I have some comparisons from event to event on my lap times so that i can tinker for the next one and see what works.
I'll go to auto x events here and there. Quite frankly cones don't tickle my pickle... but if friends of mine go, i'll come and race with them.

Eventually once I save up enough money for a nice massive 2-3 week vacation... I'm going to be shipping my car to Nordschleife. My goal is to do around 7:30. I'm pretty sure the car is capable of faster... but the question is... how far on the edge am I going to want to drive the car? In simulators, all is fine and well if you crash your car... press escape, restart. In real life... doesn't matter how you've memorized those turns... live preservation plays a major role.


Hope that answers some questions.

rep tha 561

iTrader: (3)

Thats a sexy car!!