DSMxJB

iTrader: (2)

I'm posting for a friend. His evo8 is idling terrible. It's causing itself to stall at stops. It's very bad when it's cold. It gets a little better when it's warm but it still isn't right. He has a cel and the codes I got were:



P0507
Idle control system rpm high

P0113
Iat sensor 1 circuit High input

P2228
Barometric pressure circuit low


I was hoping somebody could point me in the right direction.


Cars mods:
3" turbo back
Hard intake pipe& cone filter
3" turboback no cat
Defi boost gauge
Ets fmic core
Evo 9 bov recirculated
Manual boost controller

Jrose42488

I had Idle Problems one time. I got fed up, so I broke down and purchased a new IAC.....$380 later I had a nice clean idle. Possibly check for corrosion on the plug or sensor. Thats where i would start....

WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

no tune? bad news. barometric pressure cel leads me to believe that something with the maf is being screwed.

DSMxJB

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking it was the Iac but wanted to know all the possibilities.

No the car doesn't have a tune. I was hoping its not the maf but I know the barometric sensor code is bad news there.


Some more info on the car.

It was purchased from a dealer and didn't pass smog because it had no cat and a tune. They said they put a cat on it and had it reflashed to the stock tune.
The cat has since been removed and replaced with a test pipe.

This happened randomly. He was moving and drove the car to the new house. It drove perfectly fine. It sat all day while he moved using the moving truck and when he went to go drive his evo this happened. He started it and it ran like crap.

ReaperX

iTrader: (5)

First place to look is the maf. I through the bottom 2 codes when the maf was unplugged for a boost leak test.

djdnav

iTrader: (7)

Egr hose pop off?

ReaperX

iTrader: (5)

EGR hose would be p0401 I believe.

WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

Check the mag connections. Take it off and clean it then reset the ecu. Then get a damn tune!!!

DSMxJB

iTrader: (2)

I've checked the connection and it's good but I haven't cleaned it. Should I clean the maf itself or just the connector? I have a can of maf cleaner from o Riley's but it says not to use on mitsu mafs.

DSMxJB

iTrader: (2)

Care to elaborate? Why do you think it's the ecu. It really doesn't seen like a ecu problem to me.

DSMxJB

iTrader: (2)

Does the iac look like it functioning properly? I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like exactly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63DBh...ature=youtu.be


We also noticed the throttle body appears to be aftermarket.

xxthayxx

iTrader: (11)

Have you tried cleaning the IAC? A new IAC from Amazon is only $69.00 plus shipping.

DSMxJB

iTrader: (2)

No, I didn't try cleaning it. I was expecting it to move more or click more from what I've read. It hardly move or makes any noise when the ignition is turned on. Is that the correct one? It looks a littler different than the one in my video?

WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

I recently picked up my Hyundai ejantra from a shipping company after being on a boat for 3 months from Korea to the states. It threw an iac code but I drive it fri Indiana to Georgia. After a while the fine started to fluctuate from high (1100) rpm to a co plste stall. I took the iac sAort yesterday and cleaned it with some carb cleaner and so much gunk and carbon came out of it. It had gotten so bad ad to where the valve could t oscillate and was jammed.


Cliff note: take the iac valve apart, Inspect,clean and go from there.

DSMxJB

iTrader: (2)

Okay cool, we will do that and see what happens. Thank you for your help .

Is there any way we can test the MAF without having a second one?