speedfreak24

iTrader: (11)

So recently my evo 9 has a hard time starting in the cold and will miss fire if i try to give it gas right after a cold start so i gotta let it sit there for a min idling then i can rev it up. my check engine light came on the other day cause of this but when i started the car 2 days later, the light went away. It even stalled when i waited for a min for it to warm up a bit as i was backing out of my parking spot then almost didn't start back up! I had to give it some gas while it was trying to start back up but i finally did after a good 5 or 10 secs cranking. It seems like the car isn't getting any gas and it will sputter until the revs get up past 2k. I always let my evo idle for a min or two before i go drive it but i live in cold Utah and sometimes at night or in the morning it will be around only a few degrees out. I have an almost brand new battery in the car and the spark plugs are fairly new. But once the car is warmed up i never have a problem, knock on wood. I just hit 80k miles. it could be the ****ty gas cause i can only get 91 out there instead of the 93 back east. Any thoughts on why my car is doing this would be great, thanks!!!

barneyb

It could be a boost leak letting air in and messing up the starting mixture.

speedfreak24

iTrader: (11)

hmmm never thought it could be that?! ill have to check all the pipes clamps. there is a tiny dent at the bottom of my intercooler. where is a good place to get this check done at? like does any mechanic shop do the leak test or would i have to take it to a special shop?

donmeca2020

iTrader: (2)

i would recommend taking the car to a Evo specialist in the area. i wouldnt take it to no pep boys or whatever... thats just asking for trouble.

barneyb

Or look for any popped vacuum hoses under the throttle body. You can do this yourself.

elim0

subscribed +1
i have a similar issue, in the morning my car struggles to start, but after the first one in the morning, it starts fine for the rest of the day. . . . . .

BBC

iTrader: (3)

My car does the same thing (ix) and has since it was new if temps are below about 40 degrees. I also live at higher altitude (5k') Doesn't happen at sea level. The problem is the cold start is way too rich. My wideband shows between 10 to 11 to 1 fuel, until it warms up a bit and settles to 14 to 1 or so. If I try giving it gas or driving off without warming it up (temp needle just starting to move is enough) it misses, dies, or runs on a couple cylinders and spews blue smoke. I've wanted to address the issue for a while but haven't because it forces me to let it warm up a little before driving which is good. Other than leaning out the cold start, I might try a COP ignition system which may also help. This is not from a vaccum leak (which might help because it would lean things out).

cmn130

iTrader: (1)

hmm interesting thread..

ElectricBlueIX

iTrader: (1)

There is nothing wrong with your car. I don't know how long you have owned your EVO but mine has done that since it was BONE stock and only had 10k miles on it when it's cold outside and hasn't had time to warm up. These cars do not like to run when they are cold. My DSM was the same way. I would imagine you see some pretty cold temps in Utah so give it at least 5 min to warm up before driving. And this will not waste any gas. The reason the car won't start after stalling is because its "loaded up" I guess you could say. Plus its good to allow more than 2 min for warm up because it's essential to the life of your turbo to allow for proper warm up.

fastyouth1313

iTrader: (32)

Yea man,

I'm here in Utah with you, and my car struggles in the cold. Even after its at full operating temp it's rich just cause the cold air. Our altitude doesn't help at all either. I have to let it warm for like 7 mins before driving off. I'm pretty sure it all has to due with the cold. At mid day when it's a little warmer it's a little better (because its warmer) I'm also on SD and I know that's really touchy with extreme weather.

Are you on MAF or Speed Density ?

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

there are coolant temp tables you can control the AFR when its cold and drive off with it cold and it wont act like that ElectricBlueIX.

you'll have to edit your xml with codes from mr freds advanced fueling thread.

the table you're looking for is called MAF comp vs coolant temp.

I agree 100% though. it should be left to idle for atleast 2minutes before taking off. you can take off right away, but definitely don't boost it.

something else to keep in mind is, when the car is left outside and its 30F out, every seal on the car is stiff. so its always smart to just let everything get to operating temp then drive off easy.

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

I didn't have that issue even in 30F at night dead cold. started it, moved it within 1minute. no stalling, no nothing. it has a lot to do with the parts you put on the car as well. The 2150cc and e85 work really well together. your car is on 93oct though.

elevation here is close to sea level also.

fastyouth1313

iTrader: (32)

Hi Tom, I just emailed you lol.

In some parts if Utah it's hitting negatives!!!

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

to cold for me. i can barely deal with 30F let alone 0 lol.

tony_b

iTrader: (31)

Normal. Just let it idle for a few minutes before touching the throttle. Def let the temp needle get to the C before driving it, and normal temps before boosting.