blowngasket

iTrader: (4)

ok here is the deal, Alternator went bad it was working kinda on and off for awhile 13.9V down to 13.2 while driving been doing that for awhile. So it decied to just stop worling, ok fine went and put in a aftermarket one it runs fine when car is cold once it starts to warm up it goes from 14.5 down to 12.5 and then the battery light comes on and it jacks up.... Now ive already checked the left driver side connections where the electrical gremlins start, ive replaced them all and hard wired it. ALSO the car will not START from the key switch i have already checked and replaced, starter, ignition switch, Starter relay. I start the car by going under the hood and jumping the Start wire and that works, other wise from the key switch it will just click click and sometimes work and no it isnt the clutch switch when i disconnected the clutch switch it did the same thing and then it left the starter wire live to the starter and fried the starter.... SERIOUSLY IM GETTING READY TO SELL THIS THING ITS A HEAD ACHE and i just want a more reliable car at this point...
Also battery is 1 year old and load tests fine,
ALSO it only does this at idle, if i rev it to 1500 rpms it charges fine, and if i put the AC and headlights on it charges at idle much higher... SO WTF... it has to be a large electrical short or bad connection and yes ive checked all possible connection battery, alternator wire was replaced the large one even went with a step higher gauge wire.
PAYPAL TO the first person who helps find the issue!

AND if i pull the 7.5 amp fuse to the alternator combination gauge the battery and brake light come on BUT it charges right at idle, if i rev it up it overcharges....
Yea figure this one out guys...

dothacker81

... sounds like a nightmare... good luck.

Project_Broke

iTrader: (2)

I'm thinking a ground somewhere, and possibly the aftermarket alternator is also bad. Check major grounds, and possibly run new ones just to factor out.

blowngasket

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to run more grounds today, but it feels like it's a short somewhere that possibly heats up or a bad connection that heats up and then starts to much resistance. Idk I'm about to make a new damn harness and show mitsubishi how it's done, seriously with all these electrical issues wtf were they thinking...

blowngasket

iTrader: (4)

One problem solved, i can start from the key switch now spent some time with the Starter relay and found the ground to the relay was soaking some power somewhere, after rerunning the wires that is fixed. While testing the alternator, once it starts to go down to 12V while running i can disconnect the alternator from the car and still puts out only 12V so im going to go and say the new aftermarket crap is a POS... we will see im getting a brand new one

Brandisher

iTrader: (2)

It might be the engine harness going bad. Happened on my 92 civic. At close to freeway speeds, the alternator wouldn't charge. Bought a brand new battery, alternator, eventually sold it to my neighbor and he told me that after replacing the engine harness the car runs just fine.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

In my experience, 50% of aftermarket starters, coils, and alternators are bad.

BBYEvo82003

Ahh you might have gotten unlucky with the aftermarket parts. Try to find OEM and see if that fixes your issues

blowngasket

iTrader: (4)

yea thats what im thinking at this point, i can hear the alternator squeeling now
But the start problem is now back just when i thought it was gone.... wtf..
start wire is only putting out 8.7V to starter relay this damn car. looks like ill run some wire and see whats going on.

BBYEvo82003

Sounds like a plan. Goodluck!

babyd

replace that garbage aftermarket alternator first, at idle you should be seeing nearly 14v if you run a voltmeter between B+ battery post and any clean ground in the engine bay. it should not fluctuate substantially much even with accessories running

check the large ground wires between battery and chassis if you havent already, even if they appear OK and test ok resistance wise with a ohmeter they may still not be hauling enough amperage to ground. also, clean your negative battery terminal. the starting issue is likely on a ground somewhere as the vehilce will still start with 12v jumped directly to the starter correct? i might be reading your posts poorly and getting confused on what you have/havent eliminated.