Insanity Evo

iTrader: (7)

Hello EvoM,

Just wondering what oil everyone has gone with to break in their rebuilt motors and also when they switch?

I was going to go with AMSoil break-in motor oil for the first 50 miles and then switch to Valvoline VR1 20w-50 Racing Oil. The motor is a Buschur 2.3 RPM and Buschur Cylinder Stage III cylinder head. Also running an FP Black with the setup.

Would my oil choices and change time be ok or should I run something else? Thanks in advance.

Lancer_Vinny8

I haven't had to do it yet..... But I have been told the cheapest grittiest oil you can find is best for break in. Nothing synthetic, too smooth and doesn't really serve the purpose

Rydnkd

I only recommend Brad Penn break in oil!! I only use Brad Penn for my dsm or my evo. You can find info on it here-> http://www.penngrade1.com/products/H...ak-In-Oil.aspx




I suggest reading Forced Performance's write-up on oil in 4g63 motors.


https://www.forcedperformance.net/me...otor%20Oil.pdf

roach85

I used Brad Penn break in oil. I did 250 mile intervals until I reached 1,000 miles. After that I switched to 20w50 Brad Penn. Buschur builds his motors loose, you will want to run 20w50. Check your oil levels every day too, you will have oil consumption. If you live in a climate with cold winters you may be able to get away with 15w40. But I would check with Buschur, I know you deff do not want to run 10w30 in one of his motors.

Insanity Evo

iTrader: (7)

Funny you mentioned all that. I contacted DB today and here is what he had to say,

"No break in required. We
Recommend brad penn 20/50 oil."

And there it is straight from the Godfather.

Seems odd to me that there would be no break-in period, no? But who am I to question him.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I only use break in oil for the initial 20 minutes of run time, then switch to a regular high quality Dino oil..

roach85

Yeah I read his post about that on High Boost. Although I do not disagree I just wanted to be on the safe side with frequent oil changes. I also did not baby it on break in but I did not beat the crap out of it either.

roach85

Which sounds good to me, my machine shop told me it only takes 7 minutes for piston rings to seat. Now how many miles do you wait until you drive it hard? I know everyone has a different theory just curious about yours.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I make sure it's not leaking, which only takes a few minutes, and then I go put ring seat cycles on it. Which isn't romping on it, but it's also not taking it easy on it.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Autozone straight 30W, then Rotella dino oil, then Rotella T6.
I did 100mi of street driving/vacuum on the 30w. Lots of RPM variation. Overkill, I think. But just in case, I suppose.

meckert

iTrader: (11)

I usually break mine in light--and 1000 miles before jumping all over it.
Curious myself, 7 minutes to seat rings???? kind of arbitrary I would think. Ask the shop if that's 7 minutes at idle or 5K? (neither is rt) just had to chuckle.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It's not right, but it's also not wrong. The sharp edges on the cross hatching that the hone leaves behind to seat the rings are quickly filed down. Usually within the first 25-50 miles is when you want to really be focused on seating the rings. 1,000 miles of light break in is 100% not needed, and risking poor ring seal. Every single engine I've built was on the dyno, or getting tuned, within 50-75 miles.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

1000of break in? Wow. I.thought my 100mi was a lot.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

Since I have never broken in an engine, I asked a bunch of people who I respect in the Evo community what their procedure was. Two mentioned start up car, check for leaks, bring up to operating temp. Then cut open filter, check for particles. Once that step is reached, fill with new oil, throw on dyno.

Every single one mentioned boosting the car almost immediately to seat the rings. One mentioned small boost levels at first at varying rpm after warm up (5psi) for first 20 miles, then 15psi+ for next 20 miles while tuning.

Either way, it's boost early once you know the engine isn't eating itself.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Agreed. The big name guys seem to build, check, tune on dyno.
Some people I know build, check, the drive it like they stole it.
Seems to work.