Hotsauce101

iTrader: (4)

First of all this is my first time doing such a thing, and I have searched and searched (I guess not enough). I removed my head to do a new head gasket and installed head studs the proper way. Since I was already down there I decided to do new timing belt and new components just to be on the safe side.

I am to the point where I just need to install the timing belt. I understand you need to line up everything (crank shaft, oil pump sprocket, intake and exhaust cam, balance shaft sprocket).

My first attempt tonight didn't go so well. I had everything lined up, cams locked into place with the cam lock, crank shaft at its mark, oil pump sprocket at its mark, then I added manual tension to the belt tensioner pulley, held it and tighted the pulley bolt. I wasn't able to get the correct torque of 36 ft pounds on the bolt but got it tightened. Pulled the grenade pin out, rotated counter clock wise at least 10 times. Checked the marks and what do you know..... exhaust side is advanced 1 teeth forward. I don't understand...... a bit confused here. Before I added tension to the belt everything was properly lined up and now the exhaust side is 1 tooth off even with the Jay racing cam lock tool.....

I started off the belt installation from the exhaust cam working my way down to the oil pump sprocket, then crank sprocket, to the tensioner pulley then the intake cam.

As for the balance shaft belt, I believe I did it right as I followed the manual and used a belt deflection tool with a gates one.

For the torquing the tensioner pulley, I will get that fixed. Going to barrow a working torque wrench at work. I will also redo all of the bolts I torqued down there just to make sure.

A few more questions:

- When adding the manual tension to the pulley, how much pressure do you put on it? I am using the jay racing tool that goes over the two tiny holes but I am a bit confused on how much pressure you apply to it. The FSM manual doesn't really explain this well.

- Do you recommend using blue loctite on all of the timing component bolts?


This was my first attempt on timing today, so I will redo it again tomorrow. Does any one have and suggestions or spot anything I am doing wrong?

barneyb

I have a couple of small vise grips I snap on the belt at the cam sprockets (just enough tension so that they don't fall off) to keep the belt from doing any self adjustments there but probably anything would work even cloths pins. Where the belt likes to jump is at the crank. So, when you try this again and everything is lined up and you are working on getting the tension just right you need to have a white mark on the crank sprocket and onto the belt. The belt jumping at the crank sprocket is a normal thing so expect it. Once the proper tension is set it won't jump.

BTW, what is so hard about obtaining 36 lb ft of torque. You do have the tensioning tool?

Hotsauce101

iTrader: (4)

I have the harbor freight cheap click style wrenches. I think they are broken or not calibrated. Got a hold of a nice one from work today, will give it another shot.

As far as getting the right tension with the special tool do I just go as hard as I can? Or is there a specific torque it should be held at while torquing the main bolt for the tensioner pully.

barneyb

As hard as you can - I don't understand. You turn the center of the tensioning pulley until the grenade pin is loose in the tensioner. It is while doing this adjustment that the belt is likely to jump at the crank pulley. Once you are satisfied with the looseness of the grenade pin, then while still holding the center of the tensioner pulley with the special tool, torque the bolt to the proper tension.

What makes the torque important is that these are moving and vibrating parts. Achieving the proper torque means the bolt won't back out. After tightening the bolt and waiting a few minutes, check the looseness of the grenade pin. If no longer loose you get to adjust again.

stefenboy

iTrader: (1)

Do not forget you are applying counter clock tension to the tensioner as you tighten the center bolt. You need to make sure you recheck the hyd tensioner pin. After setting the timing belt tensioner, you need to turn the crank to recheck timing and about 15mins later you should be able to stick that pin all the way through the holes. If it doesn't go in and out freely then you have the wrong tension set. It was a pain in the *** the first time.

Hotsauce101

iTrader: (4)

I got the car put back together. I was able to slide the grenade pin in after I spun the crank a 5-6 times. Car fired up minus a P0335 when it did a half start since the car was trying to push fuel in. After the 3rd attempt cranking she fired up. Cleared the code and it hasn't came back. Had boost issues. Car would sputter like crazy anything pasy 16-18 PSI. Turned out the white insulator tips on my NGK plugs cracked on one of them......

But now I have 1 mystery bolt....... Which also leads to my oil leak. I made sure the mystery bolt isn't something super important. I think it's one of the bolts for the oil filter housing.

I got the hang of doing this. This is actually not that bad of a task. We shall see how hard the front case will be haha. Only thing that's a pain in the *** is getting that tension pulley to the correct tension and tightening the bolt to keep it in place. Also can't forget the water pump pulley..

Car will be apart again. I ordered a new front case/oil pump. Noticed a hairline crack and is most likely another culprit of the oil leak I was having before I did the new timing components.

barneyb

For the water pump pulley buy a strap wrench. With that you can hold the pulley in place. I've done it other ways and they are all miserable time consuming experiences.

Hotsauce101

iTrader: (4)

I don't mind it now. I got a good way of doing it, takes me 5 minutes tops to get them all off and on.

As far as the oil leak, I believe figured out why I lost 1 quart in less than 1 day. The mystery bolt was one of the three bolts for the oil filter housing that mates to the block. Dumb of me to miss it.... I know. I didn't get any time putting the lower timing cover and pulleys on tonight so I will be putting everything back together tomorrow

The hairline crack was home brew fixed with some JB weld. This is temporary, as I DD my car. I have a new front case coming from STM.

Noticed my timing belt is a little too tight as well. I can't slide the pin back in, seems like too much tension is on it and causing the rod on the auto tensioner to be too far in. Also noticed the crank angle sensor plate is slightly rubbing on the timing belt.

Hopefully once I fire up everything I don't have a single oil leak!!