BC Racing coilover install, BR series
#18
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Anyone having issues with the rear swaybar hitting the rear subframe as a result of installing these? At first I though it was because I had dropped in thicker bar at the same time, but the stock one also hits over moderate bumps.
#22
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I now have about 27-28 Autox events on the BCs and I still think it's the best bang for the buck mod I have done to date. I would like to bump the spring rates up to like a 8K/10K F/R for AX'ing...but I don't think the valving of the rear dampners will like that extra 200lbs over stock spring rates. 6K/8K works well with street tires and still gives an excellent ride on the streets, but with R-comps..it could be a little stiffer at an AX.
Overall..I'm still pleased with this set-up. It's better than stock and get's the job done at an AX.
#24
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All C/O's
This is a GREAT write-up, I think that the only thing that needs to be added is:
When attaching the lower mount to the lower control arm the bushings need to be "pre-loaded" essentially. DO NOT TORQUE everything to spec when the suspension/LCA's/bushings are unloaded...
Reason being is that during the connection of the lower c/o mount to the LCA's, the bushings need to be "re-set" to mimic the car's static ride height (the height at which it will sit most of the time). You DO NOT WANT the lower control arm bushings twisted... Untwisted/ "pre-loaded" bushings at static ride height = longer bushings life...
The best way IMO, is to install the lower c/o mount to the LCA at each corner but leave the bolts loose. With the c/o's attached but not torqued, use a jack to raise the suspension assembly upwards. At whatever height you set, jack the car up until it raises slightly off the jack-stands (ONLY WHEN the car rises slightly off the jack stands do you know that the suspension is supporting the weight at that corner/ the car is at its "static height"). NOW IS WHEN you torque everything to spec...
Hopefully this helps people get some life out of their bushings!!!
When attaching the lower mount to the lower control arm the bushings need to be "pre-loaded" essentially. DO NOT TORQUE everything to spec when the suspension/LCA's/bushings are unloaded...
Reason being is that during the connection of the lower c/o mount to the LCA's, the bushings need to be "re-set" to mimic the car's static ride height (the height at which it will sit most of the time). You DO NOT WANT the lower control arm bushings twisted... Untwisted/ "pre-loaded" bushings at static ride height = longer bushings life...
The best way IMO, is to install the lower c/o mount to the LCA at each corner but leave the bolts loose. With the c/o's attached but not torqued, use a jack to raise the suspension assembly upwards. At whatever height you set, jack the car up until it raises slightly off the jack-stands (ONLY WHEN the car rises slightly off the jack stands do you know that the suspension is supporting the weight at that corner/ the car is at its "static height"). NOW IS WHEN you torque everything to spec...
Hopefully this helps people get some life out of their bushings!!!
#25
Thanks for that, it will come in handy now when it's time for a bilstein swap on mine. A question though, do you (or anyone else) know the torque specs needed when tightening the new shocks? I've tried this question on MLR too without luck
#26
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I know this thread is really old but it's still the first google result when you search for evo VIII bc racing coilover review so I wanted to throw a note in it.
It is one of the threads that talks about switching springs front to back on these coilovers. After doing some part number research based on what I received I found that BC is now shipping these with 7k front and 8k rear springs so switching them front to back is no longer ideal. (This is for the base springs, not sure about the swift upgrade)
It is one of the threads that talks about switching springs front to back on these coilovers. After doing some part number research based on what I received I found that BC is now shipping these with 7k front and 8k rear springs so switching them front to back is no longer ideal. (This is for the base springs, not sure about the swift upgrade)
#27
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I would recommend the swift upgrade. I have them, and I even did them on my stock suspension, and it made a huge difference. Lowers the car about 3/4 inch, and with the springs just makes it feel a whole lot tighter.
#28
Help noob to bc coilovers
hi guys I've recently acquired a 08 vrx lancer and she has bc coilovers now I havent had the chance to adjust them yet as they are to low and stiff for my area as a result I hit a pot hole pretty hard and it's moved the tower u can see it from the top adjusting plates in the engine bay what's the best way to go about aligning them back up so they are the same on both towers it's obvious u need to loosen the top bolts but as for how I move the tower can I put pressure on the tower with my foot to push it? Do I need to kick it or do I need a tool I have no idea plz help as I'm to stubborn to play stupid female and take her to the mechanics lol and I'm sure it's simple I've done harder stuff on my old ford lol front wheel drive is a whole new learning curve for me and I'm not confident to just try yet I can post pics if needed thx in advance
#29
so will this install guide also work on an EVO 3? its so hard to find anything on these cars and wasnt sure how different these two Gens are off from one another?
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