W0LF

iTrader: (3)

I'm not entirely sure if this will help or not, but have you performed the Slavs cylinder mod (valve and spring removal). I did that and adjusted my clutch pedal to wear it sits higher as in closer to the driver and it seems to have helped a lot. I also switched my trans fluid to Amsoil MTG. I now have no scratching/grind from 2nd to 3rd for a month or 2 now. It could have been the trans fluid as well. Wouldn't hurt to try the Slave cylinder mod tho.

Dirtrider741

This clutch adjustment really help out with shifting I'm glad I found this thanks

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

So I adjusted my pedal out as I was having issues getting into gears. Rotated the rod until the end was flush with the mount. Helped out a lot (but still isn't perfect). This was two days ago.

Fast forward to today. On the drive to work when leaving a stop I noticed my pedal only came up about two inches then pretty much stopped, then slowly returning to the top of its travel. The rest of the drive the pedal would do this. When I parked I checked under the hood and noticed my slave cylinder was leaking.

Is this normal to happen after adjusting the pedal? I was planning on bleeding the line before this happened but now I'm not sure if the slave is bad.

jsmcpn

iTrader: (2)

Was it hotter today than two days ago? To me, "pedal pumping back up gradually" sounds like you are RIIIGHT on the cusp of the self-adjustment bleeder being blocked off - caused by having the rod turned too far toward the master cylinder piston. Try backing the rod out (toward the pedal) by a sixteenth or eighth at a time.

Ever seen this video from Jack's Transmissions?


This is still the most concise video I've ever seen about how the system operates and how to adjust it.

Despite complaints about the video quality, if you listen to what Jack is saying it makes perfect sense and it can be applied to any car that uses this type of system. I've adjusted my DSM clutches innumerable times over the years using this technique, ignoring all information not contained in this video, and it works perfectly every time. It works just fine on my IX too.

Useful info:
Don't think of turning the rod clockwise and anti-clockwise. Think: IN = toward the master cylinder, OUT = away from the master... just like the clutch is "in" when the pedal is down, and "out" when pedal is up.

In the video, Jack describes having a friend pushing on the clutch slave/fork to see if it can be moved. The purpose of this is to check whether the master cylinder bleeder vale is open or not. When pushing on the slave/fork, your friend should trying to push it back to clutch pedal UP(out) position. If he can't figure out which direction is which, tell him to make it move the opposite direction it moves when you push the pedal down.

Turning the rod IN too far disables the bleeder system (makes the slave/fork not return to full-out position), and will ruin your clutch and synchros. Turning it OUT too far wastes pedal travel by having to close a too-large free play gap before the rod touches the piston and starts pushing it in.

Raising the top pedal switch creates additional top-to-bottom pedal travel. This must be accompanied by a proportional turning of the rod in toward the master cylinder piston to make up for the additional free play gap created by raising the pedal height.

bboypuertoroc

iTrader: (17)

Yup, watched the video before doing the adjustment. I was still able to move the fork with my fingers where it's set at right know but I'll try backing it out as you suggested. *EDIT is the fork supposed to be moved and held while the clutch pedal is pushed in? After re-reading it seems like that's what's supposed to happen

Temps have been higher than normal lately but no difference between before and after adjustment.

Would any of this explain the leak from the slave?

jsmcpn

iTrader: (2)

Nope, the fork should NOT move with the pedal pressed down, otherwise it wouldn't be able to apply force to the pressure plate.

The fork will move in "Direction A" when the pedal is pressed DOWN.
The fork will move in "Dierction B" when the pedal is let UP.
The fork will sit pretty much in the CENTER of it's travel range when the pedal is UP, "Home Position"
When the pedal is UP and the bleeder valve is opening fully (rod adjusted OK), you should be able to push the fork EVEN FURTHER in "Direction B", BEYOND 'Home Position"

Clutch system theory of operation:
When the pedal is pressed, the rod forces the master cylinder piston inward and the self-adjust bleeder inside the master is blocked off, which forces fluid into the slave instead of through the bleeder. This fluid pressure moves the slave piston. which moves on the fork, which releases the pressure plate.
When you let the pedal UP, the force from the pressure plate should push the slave/fork back to home position, which forces fluid back into the master/reservoir, which pushes the master piston back into self-adjust range.
If the rod is too far IN, the master piston will not be allowed to move out far enough to open the self-bleeder valve when the pedal is UP, thus failing to equalize the system fluid pressure.
If the bleeder valve is 100% blocked when the pedal is UP, it is like you are riding the clutch because it can't release all the way and there is still a little pressure on the fork. If the bleeder valve is 98% blocked from the rod being too far in, then the fluid will only have a tiny pinhole to travel through during pressure equalization and take forever to equalize (which is where my theory for your creeping pedal comes from).

If the master, slave or any other part of the system was leaking, you'd see fluid sprayed everywhere when you press the clutch pedal. Only the master cylinder has a bleeder valve, while the slave cylinder is nothing more than a piston (just like a syringe) that moves outward when the master piston moves inward (and vice versa), so it is impossible for the slave to have any sort of internal leak, only external and you'd see fluid on the splash guard.

axxevo8

Hello all,

I've been attempting to adjust my clutch as described by Jack in the video. Trouble is i am unable to distinctly feel a point where the fork can no longer be pushed in my hand. It is extremely hard to do so as it is, any recommendations regarding this?

A new Exedy Twin clutch was installed and the master cylinder was rebuilt with a kit. It was installed set to the manual's mentioned 103mm as recommended by the Exedy manual.

Shifting was notchy and the engagement was extremely low. I have since brought the engagement point higher, shifting has improved except for a notchy 2nd to 3rd upshift (the 4th to 3rd downshift is smooth) and, most frustratingly, shifting into reverse at a standstill produces a horrific grind.

As it stands enagagement is high enough to cause a little shuddering when performing low speed starts in first so i am hesitent to further increase the engagement height to get rid of this grind.

Any recommendations?

Kreeker

iTrader: (10)

In the OP, there is this statement:
On this website, they say:
Are these conflicting statements?

I'm experiencing a problem where it's kind of difficult to get in gear and it feels like I'm hitting something spinning as I put it into gear. It really doesn't grind. I don't know what my problem is...