webguy330i

iTrader: (17)

After not being able to find all the info I needed in one spot, and many tips from folks who have already done this, I decided it would be nice to put together a write-up for the Valentine 1 hardwire install process in the Evo. It pretty much applies to any other similarly-hardwired radar detector.

This is also a pretty decent method of center console removal. I realize too that your opinions on power source/grounding/tapping/etc. may differ from mine so don't smack me around too much if I did something you deem stupid.

Difficulty (1-10): 4
Time Required: 1-2 hours depending on your skills (3 for me)
Tools required:
Short & long philips head screw driver
Plastic putty knife with beveled edge
V1 hardwire kit
10mm socket + ratchet (to disconnect battery terminal)



Step 1 - Disconnect negative battery terminal
Pop the hood. Loosen the nut on the black (not red; negative) terminal clamp and remove from the battery post. Keep the clamp from touching any metal.


Step 2 - Remove rear center console
Empty the rear center console (the armrest storage area) to reveal two screws at the bottom. Remove both. Next grab both sides of the front of this rear center console piece, and pop the front edge right off the front center console piece. The two consoles are joined together by 2 vertical clips, and they just pop right apart. Disconnect the intercooler spray switch then remove the rear center console (toss it in the back seat).

Figures A & B:




Step 3 - Remove front center console
Start off by removing the shift knob. It just unscrews like anything else.

Now you must remove the driver/passenger side kickplates. They are the pieces of plastic in the upper corners of the center console on the floor (see figures C & D). To do so, unscrew the screw-clip connectors on each. They should pop right out, you may need to use your fingernails though. Now grab the edges of the kick plates and pull them back (towards the front of the car) while lifting them up. It may take a bit of jiggling but they'll eventually come off. There are 3 horizontal clips holding them in place on the front center console piece.

Figures C & D:



Next you need to unclip the center console from the dash. Push the button in the center of the clips (driver and pass side) that have now been exposed since you removed the kickplates. The clips should pop right out. Use the screwdriver if your fingers are too big. (see above figures C & D)

Now remove your ashtray and find the screw underneath. Note: I used this as the grounding point for my kit, just giving you a head's up. It's not the best but it'll do for this.

Figure E:


Finally remove the two screws holding the front of the center console to the car itself. These screws are located up where the two center console pieces (front and rear) were clipped together. You can't miss them.

Figure F:


Once you've removed all these clips/screws/pieces, the front center console can be lifted up from the front and over the shift shaft. Be careful not to tear up your shift boot. Note that the console is still connected to the car via the lighter socket. This is a good thing! That's going to be your power lead.


Step 4 - Tapping your power & running ground
Find the red wire running to the lighter socket underneath the front center console. Clip your V1 vampire clip (the blue one) around the wire and make sure it's secure. Now run the wire back towards the firewall and up under the driver-side footwell (under the dash). Just hang it there temporarily for now, oh and if you haven't already done so, disconnect the phone cord from the little black connector box -- we'll need freedom to run that down from the headliner later.

Figure G:


Next take the black ground wire from your V1 kit and run it to approximately where the screw is underneath the ashtray (remember we removed it before?). We'll secure that later, but for now just tape it up through the front center console so you don't lose it.

Now lay the front center console back into place but don't tighten anything up yet.


Step 5 - Running the phone cord from the V1 to the connector box under the dash
This took me a while to figure out and I am sorry but I didn't get a chance to take pictures of these steps. I am hoping to take some later and edit this thread but I don't know when that'll happen. Try to follow me here.

First, mount the V1 where you want it. I chose the highest spot with a convenient reach, which is right next to the rearview mirror on the driver's side. Remember this mount point because you want to have the least amount of excess wire sticking out of the headliner later as possible.

Now gently pry the headliner away from the roof between the roof and the windshield with the putty knife. I used the flat edge against the glass and the beveled edge against the headliner. Work your way SLOWLY down to the a-pillar. As you go along, tuck the phone cord (flat side down) up under the headliner using your other hand/fingers. Occassionally use the putty knife to ensure that the cord is up under the headliner, like say 1-2cm. Once you reach the a-pillar, gently press the headliner back into place. If it doesn't want to reseat itself, make sure the cord is pushed in far enough.

Removing the a-pillar cover is the next step. Simply grab it with both hands sideways, and gently pull it off (straight back towards the rear of the car). It will clip right off. You may need to use the putty knife again to pry the top off, which starts the unclipping action.

Now route the phone cord down the a-pillar you just exposed. I used the factory wire clips that were already there to hold the phone cord. Make sure you pull as much slack down as possible to ensure that you can reach the connector box. You will likely have 6-12" of slack once this whole thing is done. It should be easy to push the cord down into the lower dash, there's a huge opening at the bottom of the a-pillar.

You should be able to put one screw back into the center console: the grounding screw. Remember the black wire we taped to the front center console earlier? Put that in between the metal bracket, console, and screw. Make sure it's touching at least some exposed metal. Tighten it down a bit but not too much, as we'll be officially reassembling everything later.

Now get under the dash and connect the cord to the connector box. Connect the cord to the V1 on the windshield, reconnect your battery terminal, and switch the ignition to ON. Your V1 should power up. Start the car. It should reboot and power back up, perfect. If not, check all your connections and make sure you didn't kink/cut the phone cord or any other wires.

Now just re-assemble the center console. Pop the a-pillar cover back in place and reseat it to the original position as best as possible. BE CAREFUL not to bend the little clips on the a-pillar cover, they are fragile. Reseat the front center console completely (remove the ground screw under the ashtray) and reinstall the kickplates/etc. Reconnect your I/C spray connector to the rear center console, reseat, clip in, screw down.

You're all set! Enjoy the "cordless" radar protection.


edit: made a few corrections, I was apparently out of it when I typed this.

webguy330i

iTrader: (17)

Here is a pic (I finally got around to taking one) of the finished product:

PocketAces

Thanks for the post webguy. I am getting ready to order my V1 soon and definitely want to do the hardwire kit.

webguy330i

iTrader: (17)

No problem. It has paid for itself over and over, but I won't get into that, everyone knows it's the shizzle izzle.

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. Some of my arrows above don't exactly depict the orientation of the panels, but you get the general idea.

PocketAces

Do you have the latest upgrade?

webguy330i

iTrader: (17)

Not sure about firmware, but it's the slimmer version unit. Got it 1 year ago last august.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

webguy ... clear, useful documentation & excellent write up!
- this should really help folks with center console removal as well

webguy330i

iTrader: (17)

Thanks jemm, I hope so!

MGMaronich

webguy330i

iTrader: (17)

Wow that's awesome! I would go for something more discrete myself, but that's certainly convenience at its finest. Nice job!

MikeyM

Thanks for the great installation guide webguy330i. I installed my v1 last weekend and located the remote
display in the center console above the upper bay. I'd previously swapped the guages and radio.



Here's a closer look.



To make the display sit deep enough in to the dash I cut about 3/8 inch off the back of the display using
an exacto saw. I fabricated a new back using a strip of brass. The brass piece is about an extra inch
long and allows me to secure the whole unit to the plastic frame behind the fascia with two screws
(one on each side). Cutting the fascia was easy with an dremel tool. I cut it slightly undersize and
did the final fitting with a sanding block. (You can never make a perfectly stright cut and taking off the
final bit of material with a sanding block will fix the problem.) Finally the back of the fascia where the
phone jack connects into the display had to be trimmed with the dremel tool for clearance. I found that
I also had to trim some parts of the jack itself (the rubber hood over the lever).

expatevo

iTrader: (1)

Hey, why go to all that trouble? Just tap into the red/yellow (sunroof) wire down the a pillar and job is done. If you have a sunroof that is!!! Radar will then come on at the accessory setting on the ignition.

THKFAST

expatevo is right! I just tapped into the hot wire off the courtesy light by the rear view mirror. The power is automatically cut to that circuit after approx 30 min, so you don't have to worry about draining battery. Whole job takes about 15-20 minutes.

Failed_Senses

In the event that you were pulled over...couldn't the cop hit you up for obstruction of vision if he wanted to be dick? Just hypothetically speaking of course. I think that's the only advantage to just plugging in the radar detector.

THKFAST

The advantage of hard wiring a radar detector is 2 fold: you don't have that ugly cord in the way & makes detector harder to spot by thieves.