new rotora rotors and bobcat pads w/pics
Jul 27, 2004, 11:27 AM
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new rotora rotors and bobcat pads w/pics
hello, here are the new rotora rotors installed with bobcat pads. I didnt install the brake or clutch lines. I suggest doing these things in stages. The biggest reason is the clutch and brakes work off of the same fluid resevoir. If you screw up bleeding the clutch and the lines you could potentially double your work.
So 1 thing at a time. This will ensure your upgrades work to your liking and properly. This and you can reply on what made the most benefit to us the readers.
So, evomoto has the list of tools you will need to do the job on their website. I of course will always recommend a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening of EVERYTHING.
1. the little platic bottle was bought at autozone for $4. that and a 11mm wrench and you can bleed away. This worked great for containing the fluid during the bleeding process. If you fill the bottle 1/2 way per side it is about 4.5oz. that means you used a 1/3 of the fluid in the master cylinder. 2 times around and you will have bleed all of the old fluid out of the system. I used the whold bottle (32 oz) of the valvoline to make sure the old was out.
2. fluid. I used valveoline synthetic. 330 wet boiling point and 450ish dry. Good stuff and easily accesible. You just have to bleed your brakes 2-3 times a year to keep them tight. The change in seasons here in OHIO force me to do this anyways. So for 3.99 a pop it is inexpensive.
3. IF YOU BUY SPEEDBLEEDERS. THE CORRECT PART NUMBER IS S1010S. I HAVE THE S1010 AND THEY DO NO FIT. SO I WILL BE ORDERING THE CORRECT ONES NEXT WEEK. THIS WOULD HAVE HELPED A TON. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THESE. I HAD THEM ON PREVIOUS VEHICLES.
4.The entire job using two jacks and jack stands took 2 hours flat. I torqued my lug nuts at 75-80 psi. 1 hanger,1 17mm wrench,1 19mm wrench,1 hammer,1 punch is all that was needed to replace the rotors and pads
4a. TAKE THE TOP OFF OF THE FLUID RESEVOIR AND USE THE OLD PADS TO PUSH THE PISTONS IN BEFORE REMOVING THEM FROM THE CALIPER. THIS SAVES TIME AND ENERGY.
5. HAVE A BUCKET OF SOAP AND WATER AVAILABLE. 1 TO WASH OFF THE ROTORAS AS INSTRUCTED. 2. CLEAN THOSE CALIPERS. I LEFT A TINY LITTLE BIT OF MISSED BRAKE FLUID ON MY CALIPER AND ITS RUINED. THAT STUFF WILL EAT EVERYTHING IN SITE. WIPE OFF EVERYTHING AND KEEP HANDS CLEAN.
THE OTHER SIDE LOOKS GREAT. LOL . I chose to clean the wheels good while they were off too.
so on to my opinions!
This is a great buy. Between information I receive by rotora and carbotech the proper break in is somewhere between 100-200 miles. I broke mine in by driving to work for the past 4 days. I got on them today and about snapped my head off of my shoulders. I couldnt be happier. the brakes are touchy. I did notice that the emergency pad wear is at about 50%. So next year those will need to be replaced also. ( I use my ebrake alot in the winter time. Ha Ha Ha. Ill post pics)
ANY QUESTIONS? ASK AWAY?
So 1 thing at a time. This will ensure your upgrades work to your liking and properly. This and you can reply on what made the most benefit to us the readers.
So, evomoto has the list of tools you will need to do the job on their website. I of course will always recommend a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening of EVERYTHING.
1. the little platic bottle was bought at autozone for $4. that and a 11mm wrench and you can bleed away. This worked great for containing the fluid during the bleeding process. If you fill the bottle 1/2 way per side it is about 4.5oz. that means you used a 1/3 of the fluid in the master cylinder. 2 times around and you will have bleed all of the old fluid out of the system. I used the whold bottle (32 oz) of the valvoline to make sure the old was out.
2. fluid. I used valveoline synthetic. 330 wet boiling point and 450ish dry. Good stuff and easily accesible. You just have to bleed your brakes 2-3 times a year to keep them tight. The change in seasons here in OHIO force me to do this anyways. So for 3.99 a pop it is inexpensive.
3. IF YOU BUY SPEEDBLEEDERS. THE CORRECT PART NUMBER IS S1010S. I HAVE THE S1010 AND THEY DO NO FIT. SO I WILL BE ORDERING THE CORRECT ONES NEXT WEEK. THIS WOULD HAVE HELPED A TON. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THESE. I HAD THEM ON PREVIOUS VEHICLES.
4.The entire job using two jacks and jack stands took 2 hours flat. I torqued my lug nuts at 75-80 psi. 1 hanger,1 17mm wrench,1 19mm wrench,1 hammer,1 punch is all that was needed to replace the rotors and pads
4a. TAKE THE TOP OFF OF THE FLUID RESEVOIR AND USE THE OLD PADS TO PUSH THE PISTONS IN BEFORE REMOVING THEM FROM THE CALIPER. THIS SAVES TIME AND ENERGY.
5. HAVE A BUCKET OF SOAP AND WATER AVAILABLE. 1 TO WASH OFF THE ROTORAS AS INSTRUCTED. 2. CLEAN THOSE CALIPERS. I LEFT A TINY LITTLE BIT OF MISSED BRAKE FLUID ON MY CALIPER AND ITS RUINED. THAT STUFF WILL EAT EVERYTHING IN SITE. WIPE OFF EVERYTHING AND KEEP HANDS CLEAN.
THE OTHER SIDE LOOKS GREAT. LOL . I chose to clean the wheels good while they were off too.
so on to my opinions!
This is a great buy. Between information I receive by rotora and carbotech the proper break in is somewhere between 100-200 miles. I broke mine in by driving to work for the past 4 days. I got on them today and about snapped my head off of my shoulders. I couldnt be happier. the brakes are touchy. I did notice that the emergency pad wear is at about 50%. So next year those will need to be replaced also. ( I use my ebrake alot in the winter time. Ha Ha Ha. Ill post pics)
ANY QUESTIONS? ASK AWAY?
Last edited by newevo8; Jul 27, 2004 at 11:36 AM.
at work. lol
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