Jameson_IXMR

iTrader: (5)

I have had alot of people ask me how I did this, as far as mounting and whatnot, I just did it to a friends car, so here is a picture tutorial.

Items Needed:
Sheetmetal (about 3" by 1.5" to be safe).
JB weld (get the fast-drying).
Q-tips (you should have these anyway).
Dremel (or some other cutting/grinding tool).
Sandpaper (I used 300 grit).
A wristwatch or cellphone (cause your clock is gone).

Alright lets begin:
1.) Removing the panel.
Remove 2 screws under your cluster sun-shade, then pull out the trim those screws were holding in. Now get a trim tool, or flathead and remove your radio console panel. I have the orbital, your method may vary if you have the HVAC in there. Once those are out take off 2 screws holding the clock/hazard/vent/trim panel to the dash. Now start from the left near the cluster and pull the whole piece out from left to right, be careful not to let it scratch anything. Once it is unclipped, disconnect the 2 electrical connectors from the back and remove the panel from the car. Make sure you didnt lose any clips.

2.) Removing the clock/prep.
Get a small flathead on each side of the clock assembly and unclip it from the panel. Be sure not to break any clips, you will re-use them.


Now use a flathead to remove the red plastic cover from the clock. The three buttons should fall out once it is removed. It is held in by 4 clips on its lengthy sides.


3.)Modifying the Plastic.
Use a dremel (or whatever) and cutting disc to cut out the front of the red-cover. Do not alter the depth while you do this.


Now use a grinding cylinder (with dremel) to get rid of all the melted-plastic buildup, and clean up the cutout center. Then rinse the piece off with room-temp water and dry.


4.)Creating your panel.
Measure the hole in the plastic trim piece, and be sure what your going to mount will fit, then trace it out onto the center of the sheetmetal. Cut your holes or whatever you need to mount, and then use the red-plastic as a template to cut the whole piece of metal into a small rectangle that will fit the hole. Press it up against the back of the trim-panel to be sure it fits, and nothing will bind. Here is the panel I made/am using. I sprayed the front with flat-black engine enamel, and installed the switches.


5.)Inserting the panel.
Slide your switch-panel down into the red-cover and make sure it fits good and doesnt touch the switches. See Image.


6.)Sand, Test, Sand, Test, repeat.
If you try popping your red-cover and panel into the trim-panel you notice the clips wont clip. Get a piece of sandpaper and place the red-cover face down on it and sand it down a tiny-bit (like 1/4mm).


Keep test-fitting and sanding until it properly and securly fits. Make sure both clips can be fully clipped and the switch-panel doesnt rattle around. Once everything is good, wash off the sanding dust from the red-cover and continue.

7.)Securing the panel.
Hold the switch-panel in place on the trim-panel and insert the red-cover over the back. Watch the spacing and make sure it doesnt slide around. Once it is all lined up, clip the red-cover onto the back and it should hold in place. Now check if it is positioned where you want it.


Now that everything is together, get out your JB weld. Follow the directions and mix 50/50 into this grey mess....


Use a Q-tip to apply the Weld-mix to the corners of the red-cover and switch-panel. You are trying to tack on the corners so that the red-cover and panel are one unit. Be sure not to get any JB weld on the switches or anywhere else.


Put all of this somewhere to dry for about 6 hours (I like to leave it overnight)....

Once it is dry unclip the red-cover from the trim-panel and remove the newly bonded items. Remove the switches and things from it as they were just left in to level/space/align the panel correctly. Once they are out, use some more JB-weld around the edges on the inside to completely seal the red-cover to the switch-panel. Let that dry for around 15 hours. Once it is dry, try installing your switches and things again, if they wont fit now, then grind the offending JB-weld down, and clean the area.

Now that that is all done, install the panel in the trim-panel, then wire everything up. (Ill leave that up to you) I used quick disconnects on my wires so I could remove it easily. Now go back and perform step 1 in reverse to install the whole thing back in the car, only make sure you tie the clock-harness back out of the way, and route your new wires if need be.

Finished pics..




That is all there is to it. Just take your time and put some care into it. You will be pleased with the results.

Decent Pics



Now where can I put another clock?? (That how-to is coming soon)

Oh yeah, incase anyone was wondering the toggle switch switches between low/high boost, changes my fuel map to suit, enables water injection(working on that one still), and sets my cutout to open or close mode. The button next to it actually actuates the cutout in either dirrection depending on the toggle switch position. A schematic of the switch wiring can be found here.

Billy@EnglishRacing

iTrader: (18)

your how to's always make my night!

Jameson_IXMR

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!!

Normanruben

and why would someone want to do that?

Jameson_IXMR

iTrader: (5)

If you cant figure out why to do this, then mabye you should do something else?

partsman t

iTrader: (1)

you must be bored to waste time typing something like that....

Jameson, what did you use to relocate your heater controls and how are you making your double din deck look pretty?
That stuff I am very interested in.

80210

iTrader: (23)

Awsome, you running two maps with Tephras patch, or what is you're switch for? Great stuff!

sspaladin28

iTrader: (25)

Very nice. I saw a how to once on how to put your TT in that spot, but I have not been able to find it since. Any chance in hell that you were the person who wrote that one as well and could link me?

Jameson_IXMR

iTrader: (5)

I didnt do the Audi sorry. I used the switch to energise a relay with multiple point/double throw connections to toggle a map on the AEM standalone, and set the egt cutout to open or close and the push button actuates the motor. It also toggled on/off water injection.

flnsx

Where did you put your other clock?