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How To: Bleed the clutch and brakes

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Old Mar 17, 2009, 04:43 PM   #1
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How To: Bleed the clutch and brakes

I didn't see a bonafide write up for how to do this and could have used one before i started figuring it out.

Need two people.

It is imperative that you keep the fluid level full on the resevoir (located just behind the batter with a warning on the lid "Make sure you're using a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid" yada yada.) as you bleed the system. If it sucks in air, then you're just making the situation worse. THe small blue filter inside the resevoir is to filter the fluid to make sure you don't get dust or dirt in the resevoir. Leave it in place.

10mm for the clutch slave cylinder bleeder valve and brake calipur bleeder valve.
11mm for my clamps on my MAF clamps.
Flathead screwdriver for my air intake.

The slave cylinder is directly below the air intake. I was surprised at how easy it was to get to. You could do this from the top or the bottom, but I found it extremely easy to take the air intake and MAF housing off, and I had full access and plenty of room to dodge squirting clutch fluid.

1: Get someone to assist you.
2: Remove air intake.
3: Remove MAF housing.
4: Locate slave cylinder directly below the air intake. Has a hard line running into it with a bleeder valve (nipple) facing up toward you.
5: Remove rubber oring around the bleeder valve.
6: Have assistant pump the clutch a couple times and keep the clutch pressed in to the floor.
7: Open the bleeder valve. Hopefully nothing but fluid will come out, but make sure you close the valve before the fluid stops coming out. If air comes out(usually with bubbles as the air and fluid mix) then you definatly had air in the system.
8: Tighten bleeder.
9: Let the clutch out. Might have to pull the clutch out with your foot, this action will draw more fluid into the cylinder.
10: Repeat steps 6-9 until only fluid comes out.

Once finished, put the oring back on, reconnect the MAF housing and ar intake. Take the car for a test drive. If problem persists, repeat a couple times to move the fluid around, then bleed the cylinder again.

Should be bled by now and if you're still having problems such as a spongy clutch feel, then you might have a busted clutch line or something else might be wrong.

1: Locate black bleeder valve nipple on brake calipur. Make sure the wheel spokes are aligned for access.
2:Pop the top of the black dust cover off the nipple.
3: Have assistant pump brakes a couple times and hold it in on the last pump.
4: Open bleeder valve. Fluid or air will come out. When fluid pressure slow, make sure to tighten the bleeder valve before it stops.
5: Have friend let off brake and then pump it a couple more times.
6: Repeat step 4.
7: Do this for all 4 brakes.

Congratulations, you're brakes and clutch slave cylinder have been bled.
[X] Exedy Twin disc Clutch /w Exedy flywheel
[X] 2 in 1 DP with Apexi cat-back (No cat)
[X] Walboro 255
[X] Intake+UICP+LICP
[x] 680cc Injectors (Waiting to install)
[x] Cams with springs/retainers (Waiting to install)
[ ] Meth

[X] Tein S-Tech lowering springs
[X] 17" Rota DTP Yamaha Black rims
[ ] Carbon fiber front lip
[ ] JDM Rear
[X] Slotted, Dimpled Rotors
[X] Perrin Shorty Antenna (Biggest mod ever)
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