DIY LICP & Buschur Race FMIC install
May 10, 2009, 06:42 PM
#1
DIY LICP & Buschur Race FMIC install
I picked up a new FMIC for my evo last week and wasn't prepared to pay the $289 buschur charges for the LICP that is needed for this specific FMIC. Not sure if its due to the size or what, but the inlet is not in the standard position. I had some extra aluminum piping from a project on my brother's 1G, and everything looked like it would be pretty easy to fit together and cut for my needs.
Just thought I'd document this in case anyone else is interested.
Parts List:
1x Buschur Race FMIC
retail $799
1x 2.5" aluminum pipe 180° bend w/ 6" legs (Vibrant Part # 2867) (free)
1x Silicone Reducing Elbow (2.5 / 2.0 ) - 45 degrees (#ASRE45-X from boostcontroller.com) $38
3x 2.5" t-bolt clamps (#288 - boostcontroller.com) $4/each
1x 1.8" t-bolt clamp (fits stock oulet pipe perfectly!) (#225 - boostcontroller.com) $4
First, some FMIC pics! BR Deluxe on top, new 'race' core on bottom.
Kinda makes the old one look small. When I bought it, it was the biggest one you could get!
Now, mocking up the LICP:
The plan is to cut along the black line:
Then, a second piece to make the long leg end over to the turbo outlet pipe:
(careful, aluminum crushes easily!)
This was the original plan:
But then, as I looked at it, a second option presented itself. The coupler from boostcontroller.com was much longer than I had anticipated, and I had planned on just cutting it to size. However, check this out:
It fit perfect, I could not have planned it better. I had planned on getting that extension pipe welded onto the long leg of the j-pipe, or simply running a coupler in the middle of the straight section. With as well as this fit, the idea of not having to deal with getting the thing welded (i.e. more $$) or more couplers (meh) started to look not so hot. That, coupled with the fact that every welder I talked to didn't really want to weld this cheap piping, which helped me make up my decision.
Fully mocked up:
Test fit w/ bumper:
Side note. Buschur Race FMIC can fit behind the stock crash bar with ZERO trimming. I bent one bracked on the crash bar flat and that was it. I put some 5mm spacers between the crash bar and the frame. If you have time, get some extra long bolts from your local hardware store for this, but otherwise I got the stock ones to fit with some fiddling.
I cut up a silicone coupler and stuck it between the crash bar and the FMIC to avoid rattling or rubbing. This fit without a problem:
Final LICP parts. DB Performance in Rogers, MN has a bead roller, and they rolled beads into this J pipe for me.
Done and done:
I went ahead and put my stock FMIC in place to see how this design would work. Looks like it should fit no problem, just cut the J-pipe a little different, and it wil fit in the couplers a little more level than with my buschur race FMIC:
Done:
The next day I made 394whp on a dyno dynamics with my BBK and this new setup. It seems to work well
The stock outlet pipe is 1.8", then transitions to 2", then the 45° bend, then immediately opens up to 2.5". I might be contacting boostcontroller.com to see if they would make a custom coupler that has the 45° in 2.5" instead of the 2" section. Other than that, I'm very happy with this setup!
Just thought I'd document this in case anyone else is interested.
Parts List:
1x Buschur Race FMIC
retail $7991x 2.5" aluminum pipe 180° bend w/ 6" legs (Vibrant Part # 2867) (free)
1x Silicone Reducing Elbow (2.5 / 2.0 ) - 45 degrees (#ASRE45-X from boostcontroller.com) $38
3x 2.5" t-bolt clamps (#288 - boostcontroller.com) $4/each
1x 1.8" t-bolt clamp (fits stock oulet pipe perfectly!) (#225 - boostcontroller.com) $4
First, some FMIC pics! BR Deluxe on top, new 'race' core on bottom.
Kinda makes the old one look small. When I bought it, it was the biggest one you could get!
Now, mocking up the LICP:
The plan is to cut along the black line:
Then, a second piece to make the long leg end over to the turbo outlet pipe:
(careful, aluminum crushes easily!)
This was the original plan:
But then, as I looked at it, a second option presented itself. The coupler from boostcontroller.com was much longer than I had anticipated, and I had planned on just cutting it to size. However, check this out:
It fit perfect, I could not have planned it better. I had planned on getting that extension pipe welded onto the long leg of the j-pipe, or simply running a coupler in the middle of the straight section. With as well as this fit, the idea of not having to deal with getting the thing welded (i.e. more $$) or more couplers (meh) started to look not so hot. That, coupled with the fact that every welder I talked to didn't really want to weld this cheap piping, which helped me make up my decision.
Fully mocked up:
Test fit w/ bumper:
Side note. Buschur Race FMIC can fit behind the stock crash bar with ZERO trimming. I bent one bracked on the crash bar flat and that was it. I put some 5mm spacers between the crash bar and the frame. If you have time, get some extra long bolts from your local hardware store for this, but otherwise I got the stock ones to fit with some fiddling.
I cut up a silicone coupler and stuck it between the crash bar and the FMIC to avoid rattling or rubbing. This fit without a problem:
Final LICP parts. DB Performance in Rogers, MN has a bead roller, and they rolled beads into this J pipe for me.
Done and done:
I went ahead and put my stock FMIC in place to see how this design would work. Looks like it should fit no problem, just cut the J-pipe a little different, and it wil fit in the couplers a little more level than with my buschur race FMIC:
Done:
The next day I made 394whp on a dyno dynamics with my BBK and this new setup. It seems to work well
The stock outlet pipe is 1.8", then transitions to 2", then the 45° bend, then immediately opens up to 2.5". I might be contacting boostcontroller.com to see if they would make a custom coupler that has the 45° in 2.5" instead of the 2" section. Other than that, I'm very happy with this setup!
Last edited by scheides; Jul 17, 2009 at 04:54 AM.
May 10, 2009, 07:04 PM
#2
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What did you make power-wise prior to the upgrade?
Can you confirm whether or not lower piping made to fit the stock FMIC would work on this? (I have the ETS Original version lower and was hoping it would fit the Race.
-E
Can you confirm whether or not lower piping made to fit the stock FMIC would work on this? (I have the ETS Original version lower and was hoping it would fit the Race.
-E
May 10, 2009, 07:54 PM
#4
Sorry guys I don't have a great before/after.
Old setup:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-hfs-1-a.html
New setup:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...thy-motor.html
Main changes: BBK, Kelfords, Perrin Air filter, BR Race FMIC, the LICP....maybe some other things?
The focus here really is the custom LICP
Old setup:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-hfs-1-a.html
New setup:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...thy-motor.html
Main changes: BBK, Kelfords, Perrin Air filter, BR Race FMIC, the LICP....maybe some other things?
The focus here really is the custom LICP
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May 18, 2009, 03:49 PM
#10
I haven't had the stock undertray in ages, but I have the beatrush under tray. I haven't confirmed fitment yet, but it fit fine with my BR Deluxe and it looks like it will fit fine with the race as well.
I'll update this when I get it on to confirm.
I'll update this when I get it on to confirm.
May 24, 2009, 05:09 PM
#12
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I agree that it clears the bumper lip fine, but I am having fitment issues in 2 other spots. First, where the cold side couplers come out, my bumper hits the couplers.
Also, the face of the fmic hits the backside of my bumper pretty good, right where the big metal grate goes, so i can't trim any more. I am getting so frustrated getting this thing to fit
--mark
Also, the face of the fmic hits the backside of my bumper pretty good, right where the big metal grate goes, so i can't trim any more. I am getting so frustrated getting this thing to fit
--mark
May 24, 2009, 05:13 PM
#13
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I just remembered on the hot side, it comes REALLY close to not fitting where the coupler comes out. It pretty much rests the coupler against the frame. Does anyone cut around there to make it fit better?
