how to change: front wheel hub/bearing.
Aug 1, 2009, 02:46 PM
#1
how to change: front wheel hub/bearing.
how to install a front wheel hub/bearing, on a mitsubishi evo 4-9
this is dune on my 98 mitsubsihi mirage, converted to a evo 5. same idea as a evo 8/9 as you can tell from the pictures.
1- loosen your lugs from your rim, of the hub you are removing.
2- jack the car up, take of the rim.
3-now you will have to pull your axel out, 1st pull the center lock pin out from the center axel bolt. then you will need a 32mm socket, with a breaker bar.
next i stuck a flathead screw driver in the disc vents, that are the vents holes on the brake disc. I sticked a falt head in there so it will hit the brembo brake caliper preventing the wheel from turning well braking the axel bolt loose. (dune this at lease 15 times its worked great).
im pointing at the axel nut you must remove.
5-I DO NOT RECOMEND THIS IF YOU ARE NOT GOING TO GET A ALIGNMENT DUNE AFTER THIS JOB. also you do not need to remove it but it is easyer if you do.
now you can pull the steering tierod off, as seen here in the picture
you will need a 17mm socket. you will have to pull the lock pin out also.
after you have taken the bolt of use a rubber hammer/ or plastic. and tap teh rod pretty good, to pop it out of the knuckle. (NOTE when you reinstall it you must tap the top of the tierod to insert it back in the knuckle.
6-now before you can remove the front axel out of the hub, you must disconnect the shock from the knuckle.but 1st you must remove the U clamp that holds the brake line to your shock(use a flat head screw drive and pop it out with a few taps)
remove these two bolts which im grabing the picture.
after you have disconnected teh shock turn the knuckle side ways to push out the axel out of teh wheel hub. place the axel to the side but do not pull it out of the transmission.
7- now you will need to remove the brembo brake caliper, which will be 2 bolts from behind the brake disc. you will need a 19mm socket to take them off. (i hope you removed the brake line from the shock). slide the caliper off the disc, if its stuck, then get a towel and place it on the top of the caliper to prectect the paint. now use a flathead screw driver to stick between the caliper and the disc, and between the brake pads. push away from the disc it should pop off the caliper. (when reinstalling the calipers the bolts must be tighten at 80lbs of tq and use blue thread lock on teh bolts. prevent from loosening up and falling out, its happen to me.
Im grabing the top bolt of the brake caliper behind the disc.
8- remove the brake disc, if its stuck on the hub just grabe teh disc with two towels in each hand, and jiggle the disc. (should come loose) if not tap teh disc with the rubber hammer.(lightly)
8- now you with every thing disconnected, you can turn the knuckle around 180degrees. so you may be able to wokr on it easer like here.
now in this picture i had a spare knuckle and hub off the car already. (you do not need to pull the knuckle off)
use a 17mm socket to loosen all 4 bolts holding the hub on. like in this picture
now tap with a hammer on the hub all around to loosen the hub from the knuckle> like here
aftermath
now get a flathead screw driver to put between the hub and the knuckle to pop out the hub like here/
now to install the new hub clean it then just pop it back in the knuckle. and reverse the steps above. im not sure the tq specs on the hub i just used 80lbs plus blue thread lock.[/quote]
this is dune on my 98 mitsubsihi mirage, converted to a evo 5. same idea as a evo 8/9 as you can tell from the pictures.
1- loosen your lugs from your rim, of the hub you are removing.
2- jack the car up, take of the rim.
3-now you will have to pull your axel out, 1st pull the center lock pin out from the center axel bolt. then you will need a 32mm socket, with a breaker bar.
next i stuck a flathead screw driver in the disc vents, that are the vents holes on the brake disc. I sticked a falt head in there so it will hit the brembo brake caliper preventing the wheel from turning well braking the axel bolt loose. (dune this at lease 15 times its worked great).
im pointing at the axel nut you must remove.5-I DO NOT RECOMEND THIS IF YOU ARE NOT GOING TO GET A ALIGNMENT DUNE AFTER THIS JOB. also you do not need to remove it but it is easyer if you do.
now you can pull the steering tierod off, as seen here in the picture
you will need a 17mm socket. you will have to pull the lock pin out also.
after you have taken the bolt of use a rubber hammer/ or plastic. and tap teh rod pretty good, to pop it out of the knuckle. (NOTE when you reinstall it you must tap the top of the tierod to insert it back in the knuckle.
6-now before you can remove the front axel out of the hub, you must disconnect the shock from the knuckle.but 1st you must remove the U clamp that holds the brake line to your shock(use a flat head screw drive and pop it out with a few taps)
remove these two bolts which im grabing the picture.
after you have disconnected teh shock turn the knuckle side ways to push out the axel out of teh wheel hub. place the axel to the side but do not pull it out of the transmission.
7- now you will need to remove the brembo brake caliper, which will be 2 bolts from behind the brake disc. you will need a 19mm socket to take them off. (i hope you removed the brake line from the shock). slide the caliper off the disc, if its stuck, then get a towel and place it on the top of the caliper to prectect the paint. now use a flathead screw driver to stick between the caliper and the disc, and between the brake pads. push away from the disc it should pop off the caliper. (when reinstalling the calipers the bolts must be tighten at 80lbs of tq and use blue thread lock on teh bolts. prevent from loosening up and falling out, its happen to me.
Im grabing the top bolt of the brake caliper behind the disc.
8- remove the brake disc, if its stuck on the hub just grabe teh disc with two towels in each hand, and jiggle the disc. (should come loose) if not tap teh disc with the rubber hammer.(lightly)
8- now you with every thing disconnected, you can turn the knuckle around 180degrees. so you may be able to wokr on it easer like here.
now in this picture i had a spare knuckle and hub off the car already. (you do not need to pull the knuckle off)
use a 17mm socket to loosen all 4 bolts holding the hub on. like in this picture
now tap with a hammer on the hub all around to loosen the hub from the knuckle> like here
aftermath
now get a flathead screw driver to put between the hub and the knuckle to pop out the hub like here/
now to install the new hub clean it then just pop it back in the knuckle. and reverse the steps above. im not sure the tq specs on the hub i just used 80lbs plus blue thread lock.[/quote]
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Apr 24, 2011, 09:53 AM
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having some trouble with this.. i took all the bolts off of the hub assembly but still cannot get the hub off of the knuckle.. ive tried penetrating oil and a hammer, i guess 80k miles and its rusted itself on pretty good. Should i use heat to break it free?
Apr 27, 2011, 05:35 AM
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Good Luck!
Oct 22, 2011, 09:43 AM
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Excellent how to, I'll add more later.
Frozen wheel bearing, frozen wheel hub bearing, rusted hub bearing, rusted wheel hub bearing , stuck wheel bearing, stuck wheel hub bearing (For more search hits)
If your hub bearing comes of with a few HARD hits with either a slide hammer or from the front or from behind with a small sledge like in the photos here, the hub bearing is not frozen to the wheel knuckle.
If it's too hard coming out with a slide hammer the inner race and wheel mounting studs will separate leaving the outer bearing race to removed later, this isn't a problem as you normally replace the entire wheel hub bearing assembly and wheel stud assembly anyway.
You could replace only the wheel precision bearing only, if you are very skilled. I'm not willing to become that skilled and will punt on doing that.
On higher mileage (I'll arbitrarily say 50,000 miles or more) or older (I'll arbitrarily say 5 years or older), or any place that uses road salt, it is also likely is that the ABS sensor is frozen in place.
Note if you remove the wheel knuckle, which I do, you will need to get a wheel alignment!!
(DON'T try to remove the frozen ABS sensor it could cost you $300 to $400 if you break it.) If the hub bearing is frozen like mine, what I had to do in 20/20 hindsight, was mark the shock location and remove the wheel knuckle with the abs sensor still attached to the wheel knuckle. (I removed the wheel liner to give me more distance with the ABS sensor cable)
Using a 12 ton harbor freight press $130.00 (Item # 33497) and a Front wheel bearing adapter kit $90.00 (Item # 66829) and an extra 10 ton arbor plate $20 I pressed out the bearing. If you have the space the 20 ton press is nicer. $200.00
I didn't need the press to put them back in. Where I'm at it's $40 to press out a bearing so $160 for the job I spent $240 and don't feel too bad about it. I also couldn't remove my ABS sensor which added to my logic of if you can't take the wheel knuckle to the press, take the press to the wheel knuckle. ; )
There are professional kits out there for $300 to $600 that could do an easier and better job.
Granted that's a lot of money.
I'll add to this thread or start another one just for frozen wheel hub bearings later.
This is how I installed the new wheel hub bearing..
I cleaned out the inside of the wheel knuckle (makling sure to not damage the ABS sensor) with a brass brush with a drill and also cleaned the top mating surface in the same way.
I greased the inside of the wheel knuckle with some anti-sieze grease, I used lithium, also greased the mating surface of the hub bearing,
I then put the stud side of the new bearing facing down on the ground and put the knuckle in on the top and aligned the holes for the wheel hub bearing bolts. I put the bolts in to verify alignment and finger tightened them down all the way to the bearing doing my best to keep the wheel knuckle level on the bearing. I then took my little impact wrench (100 ft/lb) and tightened the bolts about 1 turn and in a cris cross fashion tightened them down, you could torque them to spec (65+-7 ft-lb or 88+-10 N-M) now or later then it's back on the strut (probably easier).
Hope this helps.
Frozen wheel bearing, frozen wheel hub bearing, rusted hub bearing, rusted wheel hub bearing , stuck wheel bearing, stuck wheel hub bearing (For more search hits)
If your hub bearing comes of with a few HARD hits with either a slide hammer or from the front or from behind with a small sledge like in the photos here, the hub bearing is not frozen to the wheel knuckle.
If it's too hard coming out with a slide hammer the inner race and wheel mounting studs will separate leaving the outer bearing race to removed later, this isn't a problem as you normally replace the entire wheel hub bearing assembly and wheel stud assembly anyway.
You could replace only the wheel precision bearing only, if you are very skilled. I'm not willing to become that skilled and will punt on doing that.
On higher mileage (I'll arbitrarily say 50,000 miles or more) or older (I'll arbitrarily say 5 years or older), or any place that uses road salt, it is also likely is that the ABS sensor is frozen in place.
Note if you remove the wheel knuckle, which I do, you will need to get a wheel alignment!!
(DON'T try to remove the frozen ABS sensor it could cost you $300 to $400 if you break it.) If the hub bearing is frozen like mine, what I had to do in 20/20 hindsight, was mark the shock location and remove the wheel knuckle with the abs sensor still attached to the wheel knuckle. (I removed the wheel liner to give me more distance with the ABS sensor cable)
Using a 12 ton harbor freight press $130.00 (Item # 33497) and a Front wheel bearing adapter kit $90.00 (Item # 66829) and an extra 10 ton arbor plate $20 I pressed out the bearing. If you have the space the 20 ton press is nicer. $200.00
I didn't need the press to put them back in. Where I'm at it's $40 to press out a bearing so $160 for the job I spent $240 and don't feel too bad about it. I also couldn't remove my ABS sensor which added to my logic of if you can't take the wheel knuckle to the press, take the press to the wheel knuckle. ; )
There are professional kits out there for $300 to $600 that could do an easier and better job.
Granted that's a lot of money.
I'll add to this thread or start another one just for frozen wheel hub bearings later.
This is how I installed the new wheel hub bearing..
I cleaned out the inside of the wheel knuckle (makling sure to not damage the ABS sensor) with a brass brush with a drill and also cleaned the top mating surface in the same way.
I greased the inside of the wheel knuckle with some anti-sieze grease, I used lithium, also greased the mating surface of the hub bearing,
I then put the stud side of the new bearing facing down on the ground and put the knuckle in on the top and aligned the holes for the wheel hub bearing bolts. I put the bolts in to verify alignment and finger tightened them down all the way to the bearing doing my best to keep the wheel knuckle level on the bearing. I then took my little impact wrench (100 ft/lb) and tightened the bolts about 1 turn and in a cris cross fashion tightened them down, you could torque them to spec (65+-7 ft-lb or 88+-10 N-M) now or later then it's back on the strut (probably easier).
Hope this helps.
Last edited by kcarpent; Oct 22, 2011 at 12:28 PM.
May 29, 2012, 10:03 AM
#15
Hey guys I'm experiencing noise come from my front driver wheel well. I'm think its the hub bearing. Its noisey when moving past 30mph and very noise when I press the brakes and turning. No clicking noise like a cv axle will produce. I just would like to here symptoms of bad hub bearings aside from the one's listed frozen,etc...^ thanks