Installed PLX wideband on my 9...
Sep 23, 2009, 04:04 PM
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Installed PLX wideband on my 9...
Some pics of the PLX Wideband Installed on my 9. EVOSCAN currently doesn't support this controller for logging, nevertheless - Hamish says he'll be adding support for it.
Notes:
#1 - If you bought an SM-AFR w/ Sensor, you'll most likely get a TYPE-B sensor. The problem with the Type-B sensor is that it comes with a short pigtail (considering the hole on the chassis is right above the downpipe, having a dangling connector really close to said downpipe ain't a good idea). Got some options to overcome that dilemma listed below.
Option #1 - Call PLX and they will sell you a specially packaged SM-AFR w/ sensor combo that comes with their Type-A equivalent. You need to make a phone call as said combo is not listed in their online store - might want to ask if they'll pricematch their distributors (for example - StreetRays.com)
Option #2 - Buy an SM-AFR with Type-B, send it to PLX unopened and they'll replace it with an SM-AFR that comes w/ the Type-A sensor (will end up costing the same as #1 after the shipping ping-pong)
Option #3 - Purchase the SM-AFR w/out the Sensor - 143$, purchase Type-A Harness - 44$, and Purchase a Type-A Sensor - 76$ (I believe it's just a Bosch Wideband Sensor - Part #17014 - available from Autozone). A drawback to this approach is that this will cost you significantly more compared to buying the SM-AFR w/ Type-B harness and Sensor combo (166$).
Option #4 - Last resort, Extend the O2 Pigtail yourself.
Here's how to extend the O2 Pigtail
1) Cut the sensor pigtail two and a half inches from the HARNESS connector (so that you'll have a lot of wire on the sensor side, the HARNESS connector side will be fairly short).
2) You need 16 gauge wires - 5 of them.
3) You need to use non-insulated butt connectors, crimp em, then cover each connector w/ heatshrink tubing. (can't solder because the bosch sensor uses stainless steel wire in the pigtail).
4) You must then cover the heatshrinked butt connector with the fiberglass sheath from the sensor (to protect it from the heat).
5) Cover the rest of the wires w/ heatshrink tubing
Finished product should look something like below. Pain in the ***, will cost your much more now (need to buy crimping tools, non insulated butt connectors, heatshrink tubing and etc) and in the long term (replacement TYPE-A sensors are cheaper, especially when bought from Autozone), do yourself a favor and try to get the SM-AFR w/ the Type A sensor and harness instead.
#2 - This is where I stuck the module, I just velcro'd it to the thing-a-ma-jig (dunno what that is - controller looking device w/ yellow connectors). Picture Below
#3 - Here's where I routed the serial out cable. Picture Below
#4 - I tapped power from the Cig Lighter Connector (brown is power, black is ground). Picture Below
#5 - I used Dean Ultra Plugs (available from any Hobby Shop), got two female ends just in case I decide to purchase the PLX Boost Module + Gauge. Picture Below
#6 - Here's where I routed the wideband cable (per others), I had to make the hole slightly larger to drop in the sensor. I didn't hack the stock grommet to bits, I decided to purchase a bag of 25 grommets that's perfect for the job at hand from McMaster.com - Part Number (9307K76). It has a 1/4" Inner Diameter Hole (just big enough to let the cable through and nothing else). Picture Below
#7 - Finished. Picture Below
Sample Source code for reading from a PLX via its Serial Support
Notes:
#1 - If you bought an SM-AFR w/ Sensor, you'll most likely get a TYPE-B sensor. The problem with the Type-B sensor is that it comes with a short pigtail (considering the hole on the chassis is right above the downpipe, having a dangling connector really close to said downpipe ain't a good idea). Got some options to overcome that dilemma listed below.
Option #1 - Call PLX and they will sell you a specially packaged SM-AFR w/ sensor combo that comes with their Type-A equivalent. You need to make a phone call as said combo is not listed in their online store - might want to ask if they'll pricematch their distributors (for example - StreetRays.com)
Option #2 - Buy an SM-AFR with Type-B, send it to PLX unopened and they'll replace it with an SM-AFR that comes w/ the Type-A sensor (will end up costing the same as #1 after the shipping ping-pong)
Option #3 - Purchase the SM-AFR w/out the Sensor - 143$, purchase Type-A Harness - 44$, and Purchase a Type-A Sensor - 76$ (I believe it's just a Bosch Wideband Sensor - Part #17014 - available from Autozone). A drawback to this approach is that this will cost you significantly more compared to buying the SM-AFR w/ Type-B harness and Sensor combo (166$).
Option #4 - Last resort, Extend the O2 Pigtail yourself.
Here's how to extend the O2 Pigtail
1) Cut the sensor pigtail two and a half inches from the HARNESS connector (so that you'll have a lot of wire on the sensor side, the HARNESS connector side will be fairly short).
2) You need 16 gauge wires - 5 of them.
3) You need to use non-insulated butt connectors, crimp em, then cover each connector w/ heatshrink tubing. (can't solder because the bosch sensor uses stainless steel wire in the pigtail).
4) You must then cover the heatshrinked butt connector with the fiberglass sheath from the sensor (to protect it from the heat).
5) Cover the rest of the wires w/ heatshrink tubing
Finished product should look something like below. Pain in the ***, will cost your much more now (need to buy crimping tools, non insulated butt connectors, heatshrink tubing and etc) and in the long term (replacement TYPE-A sensors are cheaper, especially when bought from Autozone), do yourself a favor and try to get the SM-AFR w/ the Type A sensor and harness instead.
#2 - This is where I stuck the module, I just velcro'd it to the thing-a-ma-jig (dunno what that is - controller looking device w/ yellow connectors). Picture Below
#3 - Here's where I routed the serial out cable. Picture Below
#4 - I tapped power from the Cig Lighter Connector (brown is power, black is ground). Picture Below
#5 - I used Dean Ultra Plugs (available from any Hobby Shop), got two female ends just in case I decide to purchase the PLX Boost Module + Gauge. Picture Below
#6 - Here's where I routed the wideband cable (per others), I had to make the hole slightly larger to drop in the sensor. I didn't hack the stock grommet to bits, I decided to purchase a bag of 25 grommets that's perfect for the job at hand from McMaster.com - Part Number (9307K76). It has a 1/4" Inner Diameter Hole (just big enough to let the cable through and nothing else). Picture Below
#7 - Finished. Picture Below
Sample Source code for reading from a PLX via its Serial Support
Last edited by funks; Oct 19, 2009 at 11:55 PM.
Sep 23, 2009, 10:21 PM
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If anybody wants a free grommet, send me a PM and a SASE and I'll send you one (I got 24 of them that I don't know what to do with - lol).
I'll rectify that tomorrow 
Originally Posted by revivn9k
I think you forgot to remove the ipod decal off the face of your radio.
Last edited by funks; Sep 24, 2009 at 06:20 PM.
Sep 24, 2009, 11:46 AM
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In another note, getting the SM-AFR w/ a Type-A harness and Sensor is much cheaper in the long term as replacement sensors are available locally from Autozone for around 52$ (Bosch #17014 Wideband Oxygen Sensor w/ D -Type Connector) instead of paying 80$ for one with the Square type connector (PLX Type B).
The Bosch #17014 is also the exact same sensor sold as a replacement by Innovate (albeit, at a much higher price - Innovate sells the sensor for 80$)
The Bosch #17014 is also the exact same sensor sold as a replacement by Innovate (albeit, at a much higher price - Innovate sells the sensor for 80$)
Last edited by funks; Sep 24, 2009 at 06:22 PM.
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Oct 10, 2009, 09:44 AM
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not the ADC, but the rear O2 Slot. There is a thread by that teaches you how to disable rear O2 sensor and logged the 0-5v. The formulator I used for EvoScan to convert the signal is x/255*10+10.
Oct 14, 2009, 03:13 PM
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I added a SM-BOOST w/ DM-5 Boost gauge..
Parts
1) PLX SM-BOOST Module
2) PLX DM-5 Boost Gauge
3) 6 feet of Vacuum Hose (5/32) - Autozone
4) Vacuum T (was able to get a brass one from Napa a while back) - don't like plastic one's because they get brittle and break over time.
5) Rubber Grommet (Part Number - 9307K77 from McMaster.com)
Some pics..
PLX SM-Boost w/ PLX DM-5 Gauge (pictured below).
Was able to get this nice Brass T from Napa a while back - don't know the part number (pictured below).
Here's the grommet and the vacuum line through the firewall (Passenger Side, behind the strut mount) - (pictured below).
A picture of the Rubber Grommet which I bought from McMaster.com, and 5/32 vacuum hose from Autozone (need 6 feet) - (pictured below).
Perfect fit (pictured below).
Parts
1) PLX SM-BOOST Module
2) PLX DM-5 Boost Gauge
3) 6 feet of Vacuum Hose (5/32) - Autozone
4) Vacuum T (was able to get a brass one from Napa a while back) - don't like plastic one's because they get brittle and break over time.
5) Rubber Grommet (Part Number - 9307K77 from McMaster.com)
Some pics..
PLX SM-Boost w/ PLX DM-5 Gauge (pictured below).
Was able to get this nice Brass T from Napa a while back - don't know the part number (pictured below).
Here's the grommet and the vacuum line through the firewall (Passenger Side, behind the strut mount) - (pictured below).
A picture of the Rubber Grommet which I bought from McMaster.com, and 5/32 vacuum hose from Autozone (need 6 feet) - (pictured below).
Perfect fit (pictured below).
Last edited by funks; Oct 14, 2009 at 03:20 PM.
Oct 14, 2009, 03:22 PM
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If anybody wants a free grommet (for either the O2 sensor (larger), or the Boost Vacuum Hose (smaller)) - send me a self addressed stamped envelope and i'll send you one (each grommet came in a bag of 25 or so, dunno what to do with them).
Jun 3, 2010, 12:03 PM
#12
bumping this back from the dead:
Although evoscan may not presently be setup to log data from this wideband, I'm under the impression that you should still be able to wire the wideband analog out connection on your sm-afr back into the ecu, patch your rom, and just change the scaling formula being used (as I understand it, the LC-1 scales are the default settings).
As found in the manual and on their website, here is the info you need... I think.
Can anyone confirm this for me? I believe this info is correct. I ask because I'm about to try...
Although evoscan may not presently be setup to log data from this wideband, I'm under the impression that you should still be able to wire the wideband analog out connection on your sm-afr back into the ecu, patch your rom, and just change the scaling formula being used (as I understand it, the LC-1 scales are the default settings).
As found in the manual and on their website, here is the info you need... I think.
Can anyone confirm this for me? I believe this info is correct. I ask because I'm about to try...
Last edited by boozeup&riot; Jun 3, 2010 at 12:12 PM.
Sep 14, 2010, 09:59 PM
#14
and no that value still doesnt do it for mine.. does anyone have the link to a thread that explains how to enter the equation. i found about 3 and each say a different thing and havent gotten a single one to work... this is the most frustrating task that should not take over a week...
