When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Evo How Tos / InstallationsPost or link to your detailed how to / installation articles in here. If you have any questions regarding the how tos, feel free to post them in the Request sub-forum.
if you have a business you can ship to, go to harborsales.net
i think i paid $100 for a huge sheet of alumalite, cant remember if it was 4x8 or 4x10.
my splitter goes on/off in under 10 minutes, hardest part is getting the bumper on and off (i do have a bumper quick release). i have 6 attachment points, using the bolt holes for the front underbody brace bar, a cable on either side that hangs on a bolt into the frame near oil cooler on one side and acd pump on the other, and i have two hooks coming out of the bumper beam through the bumper. splitter has ability to have angle adjusted using plastic washers at the rear bolts and also has abaility to move up if hitting ground etc (which was happening until i upped my front spring rate)
the damn thing makes downforce tho...i have to replace the 3/8" hooks up front every 2-3 events due to bending...
My plywood splitter.Will go with alumalite(6mm) later.As it sits I can get the car on and off the car trailer with the splitter on the car with added Race ramps (7ft.).
I could carefully get on my trailer with a 5 inch splitter, but the way my ramps slide out I quickly caught an edge and ripped off a section of the splitter...I now just take the ten minutes to take it off.
Codylop - you should really think about adding an air dam, I think you are getting some decent spillage into the bumper imho
The splitter it's right on the bumper (stock evo8 bumper). Car lowered 1/2in from stock. I plan on using adjustable inlinks soo I can get -3degs for autocross and track use.I don't drive the car in town, soo on and off trailer. I'm still adjusting the car but the splitter did help with understeer.It's nice to use plywood first as a mock up .My local sign business wanted 200$ for 6mm sheet of alumalite.If you mess up the plywood is 30$ but if you drill or cut the alumalite wrong you can be stuck with it.I know we can use cardboard but running plywood first let's you know if it's going to work .
Air dam and canards will be the next step.Looking like I will have to make canards.Thinking the apr ones or ones we can just buy will not work as great.It's harder to find ones for the Evo 8.Thanks
Hey first let me begin by saying what a nice job you did. Having said that, for anyone else that want to try this a good alternative to plywood would be foam covered in Carbon & Aramid Hybrids fabric. and west system. http://www.shopmaninc.com/hybrids.html You could do hard points inlays for anchoring. In addition, it can be formed into any compound shape needed. I'll try to post a pic of a micro hydroplane a did just so you get the idea how you can shape the foam.
once covered and sanded the product is smooth as glass and strong as steel with about 1/2 the weight. sorry about the of off topic pic...
Extruded Polystyrene and it glues very strong with epoxy, so you can build up layers to achieve the desired height then sand away to obtain the desired shape. you can cut it with a knife, blade, jigsaw or better yet a hot wire. The trick is choosing the right fabric. to achieve proper straight. It will not warp and its weather resistant. people build kayaks and I have built r/c jets with this technic. very strong and lightweight. I would do hardpoint inlays for anchoring before laminating. It's really quite a simple job, the hard part is getting the shape right. I give EGbeater a lot of credit for his finish product. the pattern he used is perfect.
Anyone know where I can find the stainless wire versions of the splitter support rods? I don't want anything restricting upward movement if I smash a kerb.
Anyone know where I can find the stainless wire versions of the splitter support rods? I don't want anything restricting upward movement if I smash a kerb.
I was concerned with this as well so I designed my threaded rod connections a little differently.
The top rod ends actually allow the threaded rod to slide up through the rod end. It's also convenient for loading onto trailers as I strap it up for clearance. I've only done some light road driving, as well as, 2 autox with this setup, but it seems to be working.
I was concerned with this as well so I designed my threaded rod connections a little differently.
The top rod ends actually allow the threaded rod to slide up through the rod end. It's also convenient for loading onto trailers as I strap it up for clearance. I've only done some light road driving, as well as, 2 autox with this setup, but it seems to be working.
Feb 7, 2016, 10:51 AM
