CharliEvo8

This thread is for people who has a/c clutch problem.

Recently my Evo was blowing hot air when i turn the a/c on. It didn't happen to me when i last used it back in summer 2012. It been getting warmer and we all need our a/c. I took the car to the shop to have them check for leaks. they told me the levels was unstable and they vaccum everything out and refilled it. I drove it for 15min with the a/c on nice and cold then out of the blue hot air was blowing. Took it back to the shop and the tech guy told me the clutch wasn't engaing. They qutoed me at 1500 to replace my whole a/c system cause you can't just replace the a/c compressor, you have to get a brand new dryer and some other stuff. I didn't have 1500bucks to blow, so i hopped on EvolutionM and search for a/c clutch. I came to this thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ng-advice.html and was really helpful and tons of information. So i took some picture and hopefully this thread i created will help other members on here. This is my contribution to EvoM.

The link above talks about changing out the shims and coil, I opted to change the coil and armature and shim since i was already at it and figure if I'm gonna get dirty then i'm gonna make sure i get dirty all the way. The Tap trick worked for me, meaning if i hit the a/c clutch with something it would blow cold air but evenutally after driving for a couple of min, the clutch won't spin again. I checked my gap on my a/c clutch and it was at .035 inch that is super way off.

All parts are Oem and i will include the part number i order.

Parts list:
MR568462 hvac, air conditioner & heater, condenser, compressor & lines, coil $64.93


MR568461 hvac, air conditioner, compressor, clutch plate & hub assy Lancer w/Turbo $101.01


MR315936 hvac, air conditioner & heater, condenser, compressor & lines, repair kit 1 $20.73


Special tool needed: snap ring pliers and feeler gauge

Step: 1. Jack the passanger side off.
2. Remove the passenger side wheel
3. Remove the 3 12mm bolt oil cooler bracket and place the oil cooler on the ground and not in the way.

4. remove the sepretine belt http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/belt...ltremoval.html

5. Remove the 14mm nut on the a/c clutch. I used a cordless impact wrench

6. wiggle the armature out
7. remove the shim

8. remove the snap ring
9. remove rotor. I had to bang it out to get the rotor off

10. remove the second snap ring

11. remove coil. be sure to unplug all connector


To install is just the reverse order. Don't forget to check your gap with your feeler gauge. Any question feel free to post them or you can Pm. Enjoy your a/c and Thank you EvolutionM.

Some quick notes: In the service kit Mr315936 i used the second to smallest shim, that shim put me at .015 inch for gap.

4RETECH

iTrader: (86)

Thanks for the write up.

I actually have 3 AC units in my basement with bad clutches. My friends tend to just buy a whole used unit for $75-100. But at least with these parts you know it should last.

Grimgrak

iTrader: (3)

I'm about to swap a compressor i bought off a member here onto my car only to discover this thread... wonder if it's worth it to save my old compressor to gap properly :P Or will all the seals die and crack from storage no use no lube as my mechanic tells me.

CharliEvo8

Thanks, I'm sure people will find this information useful.

It just depend if the a/c clutch is really your problem. Before i fixed my clutch, i would press my a/c button my clutch wouldn't engage. My fan would work, everything else seem to work when i press my a/c button except the compressor which turn out to be the clutch, when check for gap it was way off. I wasn't in the mood to pull the compressor off and drain the a/c and take it back to the shop to get it refill and check for leaks. Lucky it was just the a/c clutch.

tlb

thanks charlie nice thread post!

MISHI

iTrader: (6)

Question: when you turn the shaft itself that the armature is on... is it supposed to turn freely? or does it turn easy half the rotation and then have a slight resistance for the other half?

spriso

iTrader: (1)

excellent write up-- well done!

Thanks!

phrequenc

iTrader: (3)

this is what mine does. trying to decipher if its a shim or not.

cerevo

iTrader: (1)

I just want to know if it's safe to remove the coil with pressure in it? When I take that snap ring off is it going to blow the coil into my face or will it be on?

viprez586

iTrader: (3)

This is normal. As you turn the shaft you are turning the compressor that is filled with refrigerant oil & refrigerant itself. You're simply feeling the resistance of such. Now, the clutch should spin nice and free (Number 8)

You can take the coil off without draining the a/c system. Everything is sealed behind the coil. I got lucky and managed to crank down the center bolt and close the gap enough to make my a/c clutch engage.

See the attached image.

cerevo

iTrader: (1)

Perfect, thanks for the info!

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

ok where do you use the feeler gauges to measure gap? between what and what? do you have to take everything apart to measure it?

phrequenc

iTrader: (3)

how do you determine if the clutch is the issue? i just had my system flushed and filled properly. my feelder gauges are within spec. i used a test light on the connector for the ac compressor and it gets power when i hit the button for ac.

cerevo

iTrader: (1)

Look on the pulley where the belt goes around. Toward the outside of the car on the pulley you will see 3 rings, this will freely spin (or should) you are measuring between that and the part the belt is going around.

Sounds like the A/C coil, I had this problem. I took the clutch off and the pulley and found that the fuse on the coil was blown out.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0c...ew?usp=sharing note the fuse on the right side of the pic is burned looking

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

so you measure between the armature and the pulley that the belt mounts to? also should I take the measurement in a certain position or just doesn't matter?