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Evo How Tos / InstallationsPost or link to your detailed how to / installation articles in here. If you have any questions regarding the how tos, feel free to post them in the Request sub-forum.
Aside from Evo MR IX Fritz's install of the IWG 7670 not much is really out here on evoM regarding this set up. I have provided a link below for his install as it was a HUGE help to guide me along on mine. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...0-install.html
As my laptop is ancient this will be uploaded in sections so bare with me if it's not "completed". I went with a "kit" from Full-Race as these guys have always provided top quality parts and workmanship. Anytime I have a question about something they have answered right away. There are still some "bugs" being worked out. I wanted to maintain the A/C for the Georgia Summers.
Borg Warner 7670 Twin scroll 1.05 A/R
Full-Race T4 OE Radiator and A/C manifold
Full Race Tial MVS 38mm W/G's w/ dumptubes
Full Race EFR Downpipe
Some notes: You will not be able to use the stock fan and shroud with this kit as it just wont fit. The stock radiator upper hose will have to be trimmed and wrapped with heat tape (provided by FR) to prevent contact with the manifold. The heat shield on the Power steering pump will have to be removed to fit the External WG. The Transmission mount will have to be removed and "notched" below is a image of the open space and the mount that will have to be cut. I removed the starter wiring harness as well to ease with fitment.
The hardest step by far is "clocking" the turbo. With the stock manifold out I decided to replace all of the rusted and worn manifold studs. There is actually a socket tool designed to assist in the removal and install if you do not feel like doing the two nut method.
Exhaust Housing:
set the new manifold in place and tightened the far left and right nut to keep it from sliding. Following the instructions from BW loosen the exhaust housing and compressor housing clamp. I then bolted the exhaust housing to the manifold flange using just two bolts from opposite corners to get the flange as flush as possible.
Center Section: BW recommends the oil return be no more than 25 degrees off center. This created some issues.
1. The GT flange provided for the oil return was too large and the AN fittings overlapped each other.
2. The hex head bolts were also too large to fit in the stock oil pan.
I decided to use the stock turbo oil return and cut it approximately 3" from the oil pan flange. I then had Royal Brass and Hose in Atlanta, GA. Custom fab a hose to fit both the AN fitting and the stock tube.
The 7670 has 4 coolant ports to chose from. BW suggests you run the feed line to a lower port and the return to an adjacent upper port . I ran the feed line underneath the turbo to the lower away from all of the hot parts. I used the "stock" feed and return locations for all lines.
Coolant Feed Line wrapped.
Stock Oil feed, coolant feed and return...
Last edited by 03Ev0luti0n; Jul 7, 2015 at 04:11 AM.
Reason: not done
Full-Race provides instructions for notching the transmission bell housing and mount. Found here:
I wanted to keep as much metal on the mount to maintain it's integrity. That being said I kept the compressor clocked at a roughly 45 degree angle down as oppossed to the more typical 90 degree downward angle. This picture shows the clearance with the EBC provided by BW removed as well as the angle of the compressor outlet.
Last edited by 03Ev0luti0n; Jul 7, 2015 at 07:13 AM.
The Full Race kit will not mate to an ETS front mount location. I decided to modify my Muse LICP by using an ETS 45 degree reduced coupler and a welded extension to the LICP. the reduced coupler WAS T clamped to the turbo and then to the modified lower. (This was my NOOB moment).
I created a make shift pipe to limp the car to my welder so he could fab the LICP. You can see the 45 degree angle of the compressor outlet
Last edited by 03Ev0luti0n; Jul 7, 2015 at 07:18 AM.
With the feed/return lines fabricated and the turbo clocked.. you can tighten the remaining studs on the manifold.
The stud above the third runner did not have enough clearance to allow the nut to thread.
The next step is the Down pipe. The 02 sensor cannot be installed on the DP prior to putting the DP on due to fitment.[/B] If the WG's are installed first they will prohibit you from being able to reach the 02 sensor. I replaced my old 02 with a universal bosch sensor. Wiring diagram is so:
Test fit for the Dump Tubes would only allow one to fit down the center section of the turbo. The other Dump Tube fit like so:
I used the Gold foil tape to cover all potential heat contact areas.
Last edited by 03Ev0luti0n; Jul 7, 2015 at 07:32 AM.
I'm open to suggestions as Grimm Speed EBC says to run the waste gate plumbing as a 2 port system. I was running a 3 port on the stock turbo.
IS anyone running a Grimmspeed EBC with EWG's as a Three port? I may just purchase Full Race's 4 Port EBC.
!2" SPAL slim fan
The Aftermath:
After the LICP was welded and installed I took the car for a simple test run on about 18 lbs....
The coupler blew a hole given the angle the air is flowing from the compressor and then bending. I never realized how abrasive air really can be at that angle.
the dents in the lower are from it blowing off of the front mount and flying into my oil pan and filter.
The Fix:
I'm going to completely remove the casting bump on the transmission and cut the metal mount in half. This will give me the needed clearance to allow the compressor housing to point the outlet almost straight down. I ordered Stainless Steel mandrel bends and will fab a pipe. I will post pictures of the finished lower as soon as it is done. Hopefully then I can get it on a Dyno and have some numbers.
Last edited by 03Ev0luti0n; Jul 7, 2015 at 07:39 AM.
hi I have this same kit but using bigger EFR turbo. I think you can use evo6 radiator for better upper hose fitment. Your photo looks like it is too close. For installing your header, you need to start with this nut first. not last
your dumptubes are install wrong, should not be near intake to turbo
both dump tubes wouldn't fit in that space without rubbing the stock radiator. this si the only place I could get it to fit. I will try and secure that nut first see if that works. thanks
03evo you need to twist and rotate the wastegates, vbands, to the manifold. this makes it so both dumptubes will fit more easily, if you were local i could help, there are 3 evos in my town with this same setup now, ac and efr, not counting me #4
03evo you need to twist and rotate the wastegates, vbands, to the manifold. this makes it so both dumptubes will fit more easily, if you were local i could help, there are 3 evos in my town with this same setup now, ac and efr, not counting me #4
From personal experience I agree with erfevo. The top nuts should be installed first. The exhaust manifold needs to be pulled back a little so the nut has clearance to rotate. Also a crowfoot wrench would help to torque the nuts to spec in tight areas.
Very nice writeup. I would like to suggest a few things. Radiator while its not a needed thing i would used an evo 4-5-6 style radiator due to moving the kneck to the drivers side and away from the mani. I went with a cbrd ultra slim for more room. Living in miami never had an issue over heating. I also had the mani wrapped and a turbo blanket from boost resource. I can touch it after a run. Touch not grab lol). I also made a custom lower ic pipe to mate up to my ets ic. I am using a 3 port grim speed. For now im using the single port waste gate and have it hooked as a two port with the third vta. I have a dual port wastegate from turbosmart. I will connect it like this with the 3 port
All in all great job. Nice numbers. Enjoy the car.
Jul 6, 2015, 05:46 PM
