mitsu_lover625

I must give a lot of credit to David Bynon from Autopia and Pb from TN forums for helping with the basics of this tutorial.

Washing

If there is a single maintenance that offers the biggest benefit to your car's appearance, it's keeping your vehicle clean through regular washing. Washing is the process of removing loose dirt and road film on the top of your car's paint surfaces. That means more than just a good hosing. You have to scrub it with shampoo and a sponge or wash mitt. Which is why I don't visit carwashes much, unless I take my own mitt.

Washing can be a double-edge sword, though, as even the mildest soaps can remove the protection from your car's paint, causing oxidation (paint starvation). Detergents can dull your car's finish even faster.

A good car wash shampoo should be very gentle on paint, plastic and rubber. Don't use dish washing soap unless you are trying to strip your wax job (Dawn is good for this). A good car wash shampoo provides lubrication to prevent scratching and conditioners to maintain the shine. Be sure to select a quality product that's not counterproductive to your detailing efforts. Personally, my favorite car wash shampoo is P21S shampoo. It really rejuvinates your wax job, if you have one.

A towel is a towel, right? Unfortunately, this is not correct. If you grew up in a house like mine, Mom retired the old bath towels to the garage for car and dog duty. What Mom didn't realize is that most bath towels use a backing material that contains heavy polyester thread. The edges of the towel are stitched with polyester thread, too. Pound for pound, polyester is stronger than steel. This is great for long-lasting bath towels, but it's not so good for your car's paint. Traditional polyester and polyester blend thread scratches automotive paint finishes. Use paint-safe microfiber towels, like the Sonus Ultimate Drying Towel .

Your choice of wash tools is important, too. You should find a wash tool that is comfortable for you to use, but take a few things into consideration. First, your wash tool should hold a lot of soapy water. The more it holds, the more soapy water you can get on your Taco. This is important for lubrication. The lubrication created by soapy water is what prevents dirt from scratching your paint.

Use a wash tool that cleans easily, too. If it does not easily release dirt and grit, it's not safe. I like wash tools with a lot of fibers, like a lamb's wool mitt or a cotton-chenille-covered sponge. My favorite wash mitt is available at Griot'sGarage.com Griots Sheepskin mitt.

Contrary to many beliefs, the natural sea sponge and the boar's hair brush are not good wash tools. Modern wash tools make these items relics things of the past. A paint safe wash brush can be used on the lower body panels, but should not be used above the bottom-of-the-door line.

The recent popularity of microfiber has created a large number of microfiber products, including microfiber wash mitts. Personally, I only use microfiber for drying and buffing, not as a wash mitt. I think it holds too much dirt for washing.

For drying, a combination of tools may be necessary. The sheepskin chamois have been used for centuries as a towel for drying. This naturally soft leather is very absorbent. All-natural chamois are still a good choice, but they are not as effective or as easy to use as a quality microfiber drying towel.

If you like to dry in a hurry, there are paint-safe squeegees available that will quickly remove 80% of the water from your vehicle with just a few strokes. Follow up with a good towel, and you're done. If you use a paint-safe squeegee, be careful. It only takes one small dirt particle between the blade and your car to create a scratch. Personally, I don't like to use paint squeegies.

I have recently changed a few methods to my vehicle washing steps. I now wash the tires and wheels first. If you wash the body first, the water will dry and spot your vehicle before you can finish washing the tires and wheels. Do not use the same wash water on your car's paint as you do your tires and wheels. Throw it out and refill your bucket. Brake dust is metal, and it will leave swirls in your paint if there is brake dust in your mitt or sponge. If it's a cool or overcast day you might be able to get away with washing the wheels last, and not getting any water spots on the body.

If possible, work in the shade. A hot surface causes the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly, increasing the likelihood of water spotting. One trick is to park on a slight incline. This allows rinse water to run off moldings, trim, and recessed areas better. If you have to work in the sun, work fast and keep the car wet by rinsing often. Start by thoroughly wetting the vehicles finish with a semi-strong spray of water to remove mud, loose grit, and surface dirt. This might be a good time to mention: Take it easy with the powered pressure washers. Except for the wheel wells and undercarriage.

Put some shampoo in a bucket. I use a 2 gallon bucket. Then fill 'er up, and try to keep the foam in the bucket or on you mitt. The foam has a lot of lubrication in it. Start washing from the top down and rinse often. I use a small step ladder to reach the roof.ou Never go from the bottom of the truck back up to the top, unless you rinse out your mitt. Frequent rinsing of the body is especially important if you are using a shampoo containing natural oils. While these oils cushion the paint and minimize abrasion they are heavier than water and can leave a film if allowed to sit on the paint. I do a final rinse of free-flowing water, which gives a sheeting action and will reduce water spots. I use a water nozzle like this, but I got mine at AutoZone for $10. It makes a real difference over regular pistol grip nozzles. There is a lot more control and pressure adjustment. If you have low water pressure at your house, you really should get one of these "firefighter" style nozzles.

Drying

Dry off in the shade if possible. I use a gas leaf blower to knock off a lot of the water and get it out of the nooks and crannies. This will make towel drying go a lot faster.

Using a clean waffle weave drying towel or chamois, start at the top of your vehicle and work down, drawing the towel or chamois across the surface in a straight line. If using a natural chamois, use the rough side to dry.

Use a terry detailing towel to dry your tires and wheels. Do not use your chamois or good microfiber towels on the tires and wheels, as it will become soiled.

Open the doors and dry the door sills and jambs. Wipe under the door and along the door edge, as well. Dry off any tube steps or running boards too. If you ignore these areas you will get water drops streaming down the side of your vehicle when you start driving.

Open the hood and wipe down the jams and seals. On the engine, use your damp towel to remove dirt the top of the engine cover and engine compartment surfaces. After working in the engine compartment, put the dirty towel in the wash and don't use it on your vehicle again until you wash it.

Polishing

Many people assume that waxing and polishing are synonymous. In fact, they are two different processes. All paints age from exposure to ultraviolet light, pollution and acid rain. Beautiful finishes gradually become dull and chalky. Waxing over these surfaces will only create a temporary gloss over dull paint. To reveal the paint's true vitality, vibrancy, and depth, it must be polished.

On newer vehicles polishing might not be real necessary right away. For your first detail job you might want to just use a clay bar to clean the paint. I'll talk about that later.

On my Camry I use polish mostly for removing any scratches or swirls. It doesn't need to be a regular practice before waxing. I only give my truck a full polish maybe twice a year.

You don't want to get too agressive with the polishing. Because when you are polishing you are actually sanding down the paint a micrometer at a time.

It is possible for polish to "sand" down through your clear coat or even the base coat but generally, polishing just deep-cleans the paint and creates a uniform, high-gloss shine.

Selecting a polish can be intimidating. There are hundreds to choose from, each having different abrasive or cut capability. There are polishes for clear coat and non-clear coat finishes. You will also need to choose the correct product for hand application or machine application. You'll see faster results with a buffer. Most people here should be able to find Meguiars Professional line of polishes at some auto parts stores. They are in tan bottles. You should at least get a bottle of medium and a bottle of fine cut. I use heavy cut for scratches.

Work in a shaded area, out of direct sunlight. If it's impossible for you to get out of the sun then you should look into buying PoorBoys polishes. They are safe to use in the sun.

Work on one area at a time covering two to four square feet. Once you are familiar with your polish, you can try larger areas. I never do more than half my hood at a time. Work the polish until it starts to disappear or get dusty. Buff off the polish residues as you go. This allows you to discover any problems early before polishing the entire truck.

If the polishing residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean buffing towel. You can also spray the area with a quick detail spray to moisten it up and it should come off.

Apply polishes in a back and forth motion, not circular (polishes should take out swirls, not create them… don't polish in circles). If you are creating swirls, you are using a polish that is too abrasive or you need to replace your polishing pad or towels. An orbital buffer does not spin, like you might be thinking. It actually just moves side to side when you apply it to the paint. When you lift it off the paint it will spin, but it shouldn't really spin as you are polishing the paint.

Generally, polishing is harder than waxing. It is harder to work and harder to remove. If you are not familiar with polishing or using a buffer, then you might just want to wax your paint the first time to get the feel of it. Then you can polish it later.

Claying

When contaminants get a solid grip on your vehicles paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.

Automotive paint cleaning clay offers many advantages in the removal of surface contamination from paint. Even in the hands of a first-time user, clay is safe and easy to use. Sure, if you use a dirty clay bar, scratches can result. However, compared to machine buffing, compounding, or using harsh chemicals, clay is safer, faster and easier.

Most auto stores carry some brand of Clay Bar Kit. They are all pretty much the same. Clay Magic and Mothers' are good. I like Meguiars Clay Bar kit because the clay bar is a little bigger and easier to hold, but it's more expensive.

Clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for quickly and easily removing surface contamination. The clay bar will not last forever. As you use it, it will get full of contaminants. It's up to you when you throw it away. I might do a full clay job 5 times before I throw it away. But if you are claying an older vehicle you might get less life out of the clay.

When I can no longer remold clay to get a clean surface, I retire it for use on my windows. The dirty clay will not harm glass, and it's amazing how much dirt film clay can remove from your exterior glass windows. It works very well, and seems to outperform even the best window cleaners. BTW, my favorite window cleaner is Meguiars NXT window cleaner. It's not a real strong cleaner, but it doesn't leave streaks if you use it with a microfiber towel.


One of the main reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay. Clay will also remove tree sap, paint overspray, and tar. On thick tar I will use a gentle solvent like bug and tar remover or Goo Gone.

Don't drop the clay on the ground. You don't want to pick up any dirt or gravel. If the clay is sticking or not sliding easy, then you need to spray more lubricant. Be liberal with the lubricant. It doesn't hurt if it runs down the paint. The lubricant might leave a hazy film, which is just a light wax, but it is easily removed. I don't even worry about it. I go from claying straight to waxing. The wax will remove it. You can also use soapy water if you run out of spray lubricant.

mitsu_lover625

Waxing
A brief history.

It was European coach builders that first applied coatings of animal fats and wax to protect the custom paint on their horse-drawn carriages. This tradition has endured over 100 years and is still a great way to protect the paint on modern-day coaches.

Today, the multilayered finish on your car, from the primer through the top clearcoat, is only .004 to .006 of an inch thick. Radiant and ultraviolet energy, acid rain, salt, atmospheric pollution, insects and bird droppings wage a constant war on your vehicles finish. Waxing provides an easily renewable, transparent barrier between the finish and a hostile environment.

Quality waxes now combine enriching oils that "wet" the surface with protective formulas of Brazilian carnauba or modern polymers for a high-gloss shine. Waxes can be made from a natural wax, usually Brazilian carnauba, or synthetically made of polymers and acrylic resins.

Carnauba
Many enthusiasts and show car owners prefer the shine of carnauba waxes, especially on black, blue and other dark colors. Carnauba waxes bead water nicely, absorb the acid content in rain, and hide minor swirls in the paint. My personal favorite is P21S Carnauba Wax. Compared with other show car waxes, P21S Carnauba Wax is very modestly priced and easy to apply and remove. But it doesn't have much durability, even for a carnauba.

Carnauba waxes are not as durable as synthetic waxes or sealants. Depending on your climate, a carnauba wax might last between 30 and 60 days. Additionally, some carnauba waxes can be temperamental, occasionally streaking under certain temperature or humidity conditions.
With the limitations of carnauba wax, you might be asking why it continues to have a loyal following. In my own case, I continue to use P21S Carnauba Wax to pamper my show car because I like the way it looks. On my toys, durability is secondary. Waxing is a hobby for me, so I don't mind doing it often.

Synthetic

To make a true wax coating more durable, some chemists have turned to synthetic waxes that mimic the valued properties of natural carnauba, but greatly improve on the limitations. NanoWax is a good choice.

Most people judge how much wax is on their paint by how well the water beads up, but be aware that some synthetics don't create a beading action when they get wet. Some waxes have a sheeting action.

A heavier duty version of synthetic wax is a resin sealant. The king of acrylic resin sealants is Klasse. The Klasse products include a cleaner and sealant in one, called Klasse All-In-One and a pure sealant called Klasse Sealant Glaze. Klasse All-In-One is a one-step product that gently cleans and polishes your paint as it protects with the patented Klasse acrylic formula. A single coat of Klasse All-In-One provides 4-6 months of protection. For even more protection and paint finish beauty, you can add one or more coats of Klasse Sealant Glaze, which does not contain cleaners or polish. Klasse Sealant Glaze is pure acrylic resin.

Application

Work in a shaded area out of direct sunlight.

I use a soft foam pad on my buffer to apply wax. But wax is just as easy to apply by hand. I just use a buffer for a more uniform application. Then I use a small hand held foam applicator to get the wax into all the nooks and crannies, like around the door handles, antenna, fog light holes, etc. When the applicator becomes caked with wax, switch to a fresh applicator.

Most people apply wax too thick. Doing this won't add any extra protection. Also, Applying it thin make it easier to remove.

If the wax is hard to remove moisten it up with a spritz of quick detail spray.

Follow the wax manufacturer's instructions on whether or not to allow the wax to dry (haze) before buffing.

Apply your wax in a back-and-forth motion, not in circles. I follow the lines of the body front to back. This way you won't leave any swirls. If you leave any fine lines or micro-scratches they will be straight lines and less noticeable than if you made circular swirls or micro-scratches. Use this same method for removing the wax. I use a good tight knit, low pile, microfiber buffing towel. I like these. I then use a soft brush like this to get any wax out of cracks and emblems.

What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that don't want to buff out perfectly? This can often happen on older paint. There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun for 10 to 15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, and then take it back inside the garage. Next, using a good spray bottle and distilled water, spritz a small area and buff with a clean terry cloth towel. If you don't have distilled water, use a detailing spray. If you're using a sealant system (like Zaino), use the quick detailer made for the system.

For the real **** detailer here's a few extra tips. Layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking appearance. One combination that works well is an initial coating of Klasse All-In-One followed by one or more coats of P21S Carnauba Wax.

Apply and buff the first coat of wax as you would normally, and allow it to cure for 12 to 48 hours. Follow with a second coat. Note that the first coat of wax must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure (harden), the second coat will not improve your Taco's appearance or protection. With properly applied coats of wax, you will see a noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color and gloss with the second coat of wax. Adding more layers is a subjective matter, although many concours winners use multiple layers to produce the desired depth.


I would recommend waxing your vehicle at least twice a year.

There are many different brands of wax that people say they use, and that's fine. Use whatever you want if it works good for ya. I have used lots of different products, including wax that is over $100 for 6 ounces. I'm just telling you what works for me.

Quick Detail

If you want to keep your vehicle clean, but don't have time to wash it every time it gets dusty, then all you need is about 10 minutes to quick detail your vehicle.
Rinse a microfiber towel thoroughly and wring out as much water as possible. Fold the towel in half, then in half again. Starting at the top, wipe down your vehicle, wiping in a single direction only. As the surface of the towel gets soiled, flip it to a clean side. When all sides of the towel are dirty, rinse it out in the bucket, wring and keep wiping. Don’t forget the windows.

When the loose dirt is gone, rinse the towel again, wring out all excess water, refold, and spray the towel with a few shots of detailing spray. Wipe the Taco down with the detailing spray, giving a couple of shots into the towel for each panel. Use a quick detailer. Don't mess with spray on wax. I use Sonus Carnauba Spray, but any of these work good too.

Buff the quick detailer immediately with a clean, dry towel. I recommend a second microfiber detailing towel. Spraying the towel instead of the vehicle will ensure better distribution and will use less product.

As the final step, do your wheels. If your wheels are fairly clean, simply wipe them down with the damp microfiber towel. Rinse the towel for each wheel.

If your wheels have heavy brake dust, give them a couple of shots of detailing spray and let it sit for a minute. Then wipe off as usual. Some wheel cleaners are very strong. If you wash your vehicle at least every couple weeks you shouldn't have to use any strong chemical cleaners.

Swirls & Water Spots

I get a lot of questions from TN'ers regarding water spots and swirl marks. Water spots and swirl marks are different problems, but most often the solution is the same: polish the paint.

Water Spots

The same water you use to clean your vehicle can also damage your vehicle paint. The spots and damage are caused by the minerals in the water. When water evaporates off of your vehicle paint, it leaves behind the trace elements it contains. Calcium and metals are the most damaging elements found in your tap water, whereas rainwater may contain damaging acids from air pollutants.

Avoiding water spots is easy if you chase after them. The best solution is to use a quick detailing spray after you wash, or as soon as you discover the spots.

You can first try Claying, but sometimes even clay won't do the job.

If the spots are allowed to dry and bake on, they will attach to and harden on your paint. When this happens, you need to use a mild acid to get them loose. Believe it or not, the best acid is also the least expensive and most available: a gallon jug of distilled white vinegar.

Expert car detailers have known this secret for years. If you take your car to a pro, they will tell you about the "magic acid bath" and charge you $60 or more for the pleasure of smelling like a pickle. Save the $60, put on some gloves, and do it yourself. Just get the cheap vinegar. No need to get the scented kind.

To give your vehicle the magic acid bath, first wash your Taco with your normal car shampoo, rinse, then use the distilled vinegar. Just wipe it on with a sponge, and rub it in. Do one section at a time, let it sit 30 to 60 seconds, then rinse. When you're done, wash the car again with shampoo and rinse. By the way, vinegar will remove your wax. So, be prepared to re-wax your car after the vinegar treatment.

If water spots are allowed to stay for more than a week or so, the minerals can etch the paint. In this case, using vinegar will remove the mineral spots, but the paint will have etched spots (dimples). In this case, it is necessary to use a medium cut polish (if you have a polisher) or a fine cut polishing compound (for use by hand) to restore the paint surface.

Swirls

Incorrect use of a buffer or polisher can be a leading cause, but it's not the only cause of swirl marks. Every time you wash or wipe down your vehicles paint you create micro-marring. The severity of the micro-marring depends on your tools and the contaminants present. IMO, here are the ten most frequent causes of micro-marring (swirl marks):
Polishers/buffers with the incorrect pad or an untrained operator;
Harsh polishing compounds and paint cleaners;
Towels and applicators containing polyester threads;
A dirty chamois or a chamois that has not been properly maintained;
Wiping down a dusty or dirty car with a dry towel;
A dirty car duster or a car duster used on a car with too much dirt on the surface;
Not keeping your wash mitt or sponge properly rinsed;
Automated car washes with brushes and other wipers; (aka Swirl O Matics)
Not rinsing your vehicle completely before washing, or not washing your car thoroughly before drying; and
Using a truck cover when the truck or the cover is not clean.
The most noticeable area for swirl marks is the hood and trunk or tailgate. On dark-colored vehicle, they might also show up on the doors and fenders. Bright colors do not show swirl marks as well because they reflect more light. That doesn't mean they don't get swirl marks, they just show up more readily on dark colors. Black, of course, is the worst of all colors for displaying swirls and other imperfections. Which is why I have a black Taco. I love a challenge.

Swirl marks can be removed by polishing. Polishing out swirl marks without a buffer is a lot of work. I recommend polishing your Taco one small section at a time so you can see the progress.

To remove swirl marks, use a good medium cut polish like I explained in the Polishing section. Many polish manufacturers market a special polish for removing swirls. Swirl remover polish formulas typically contain fillers and oils to help hide swirl marks. Over time, with regular polishing, swirl marks will diminish. It's very difficult to completely remove swirl marks. Even the best towels and wash tools cause some micro-marring.

Basically:
To keep water spots to a minimum, try using a detailing spray after you wash. I also will spray some quick detailer in the bucket to add some extra lubrication to the soap. Lubrication is the key to reducing microscratches and marring. Keep your vehicle in the shade, and dry it off ASAP.

To keep swirl marks to a minimum, make sure you have good wash and dry tools. Never wipe, rub or polish in circles (straight line motions only), and be very careful when you use buffers and polishers. If you have repair work done on your vehicle, tell the painter you want a warranty against swirl marks. This lets them know you're clued in to a quality job.
Regular polishing is the best way to remove water spots and swirl marks. Choose a good polish, good tools, and be patient.

~EVILEVO~

iTrader: (8)

Good write up!

Im looking to polish my car for the first time, can anyone gice my info on good products to polish my Wicked White for the first time?

polish, buffer, ect.

thanks

diablo2184

iTrader: (11)

what are the BEST products? are the things that Autopia sells the best?

I heard of some company or store in the Northeastern area that has some really great products. I dont know the name of them but a co-worker told me about the store. He was supposed to bring in their catalog but he forgot. he said that they have the best car care but quite expensive......any input?

mitsu_lover625

Never heard...I'm from the West coast..lol.

mitsu_lover625

A good high-quality but cheap polish is Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Polish. http://meguiars.com/?car-polishes/De...-System-Polish

~EVILEVO~

iTrader: (8)

what about a buffer are they all about the same?

mitsu_lover625

^ Nope. Some buffers work better than others. If you spend your money on a cheap Autozone buffer, then you just bought a fast wax applicator. It doesn't polish. I recommend Porter Cable 7424 or 7336.

Slowride

iTrader: (3)

Lots of good info, thanks. Couple of questions/comments.

What's a "Taco"? Tacoma? Is "TN" a Tacoma site?

Chamois are generally not recommended these days because they trap grit.

Clay is good stuff, but remember that it is abrasive. Use a light touch and don't do it too often.

For washing I recommend using two buckets: one for rinsing the mitt/sponge and one for soap solution. After going over one section of the car, rinse the mitt/sponge thoroughly in the rinse bucket and squeeze it out before putting it in the soap solution bucket. That'll minimize contaminating the soap solution with grit.

Autopia is good stuff. I also like properautocare.com. Autopia.org is an excellent detailing forum.

mitsu_lover625

Tn is a Toyota site.

Mitchubishievo

iTrader: (310)

Its funny because I already wrote one...but never finished .

tysonK

ha.

hulkmanj99

wowo good write up!! yea dont buy a cheap buffer....

02BLUR

Excellent write up

FiftyFive

iTrader: (13)

wow awesome write up, this should be stickied