How to repaint the front lip with oem paint from rattle cans
Jun 1, 2015, 06:16 PM
#1
How to repaint the front lip with oem paint from rattle cans
I am not sure if there is a write up to do this on here but ok I am not sure about you guys but I am not going to pay for a paint job on my front lip because it will get damaged eventually and it is not worth the money.
When I bought the car it came with this lip (I believe it is a voltex replica) and it was clearly chipped. Some chips went really deep into the polyurethane and was hard to get it completely smooth. On the bottom there was a lot of scratches, I didn't bother to sand it all the way down for a complete smooth surface since its on the bottom and nobody is gonna see them but you can do it if you want to, its just more time consuming. In hind sight I should of because the lip came out better then I expected
What you will need:
1. Different grits of sandpaper (100-400 for sanding down old paint and sanding down scratches in the plastic) (500-800 to sand down primer) (2000 grit if you choose to sand down the clear coat for imperfections, if you can layer down the clear coat smoothly then you won't need it like me
If you sand down the clear coat then for a great finish you will need a PC and polish it. This is an another reason why its important to layer down the clear coat nicely.
2. Clean workplace, this prevents dust and other garbage to get stuck in your paint. It isn't vital but it will help with the end product.
3. Sponge, dish soap, water
4. OEM paint in a rattle can, primer for polyurethane and 2K clear coat. I got the 2K clearcoat and OEM paint from automotive touch up. Put in your color code, I have a black evo 8 and the color matched perfectly. The clear coat, although expensive it is a great clear coat and will protect the front lip better from fading. I got the primer in a ace hardware but I am sure the polyurethane adhesive helper will work fine.
5. 2 Red nozzles for cans/painters mask This will make the paint come out better than then the nozzle that usually comes with the can. I had one laying around but I am sure you can get one from home depot or local parts store.
Steps:
1. Wash your lip with the sponge and with dish soap removing oil and other crap, you don't want to be sanding down road grime and other garbage.
2. Sand down the old paint to bare polyurethane and sand down scratches to your standard.
3. Paint the the lip with the primer. 2-3 coats waiting 30 minutes in between each coat. Light coats and make sure you don't get any runs. Shake the can till the bottom of the can has dents in it. Shake the can every couple of sprays to get the paint stirred up so its consistent. It is good to practice with primer because then if you mess up you can just sand it down. Wait at least 24 hours before the next step.
4. Wet sand with 600-800 grit sand paper lightly, applying little pressure just smooth out the primer. Then wash again with the sponge and dish soap to get rid of oils and sanded down material.
5. Grab your can of base coat and shake it till the bottom of the can has indents in it or for 2 minutes. Start applying slowly and evenly. Do 3 coats, waiting 10 minutes in between each coat. Make sure you don't get any runs in this step, especially in later coats !!! If you do get a run let the coat dry and then wet sand it down. It is very important that you do not get runs in this step. Its not going to look as good if you fix it, so it is very important not to get runs.
Reminder: Keep the area that you are working in clean condition.
6. Let the paint dry over night. I am sure the can of paint might say a shorter time but I just did it for assurance of a good bond to the lip. Next get the painters mask. There was a cheapo white painter mask that I found in my garage and that I used. You will need to cover your air passages because the clear coat is toxic. Follow the directions on the can to mix it because it is a 2 part clear coat. Start applying the clear coat, nice, slowly and evenly REMEMBER NO RUNS ! This is an another vital part in this step because if you do get runs it will have to be sanded down and it will not look as good even if you use a compound or a polish.
And your lip should come out looking like this !
Sorry but no pics on the car, my evo is getting worked on so the lip is just sitting in my room
But once the car is up and running then I will get my girlfriend to use her nice camera to take pictures of the whole car and better close ups of the lip, getting that close to the paint was the only way the camera was focusing. Over all the entire process took me with the help of my dad on occasion; 4 days and only for about 40 bucks. No need to spend a lot of money on something that will get damaged anyways.
Good luck guys!
When I bought the car it came with this lip (I believe it is a voltex replica) and it was clearly chipped. Some chips went really deep into the polyurethane and was hard to get it completely smooth. On the bottom there was a lot of scratches, I didn't bother to sand it all the way down for a complete smooth surface since its on the bottom and nobody is gonna see them but you can do it if you want to, its just more time consuming. In hind sight I should of because the lip came out better then I expected
What you will need:
1. Different grits of sandpaper (100-400 for sanding down old paint and sanding down scratches in the plastic) (500-800 to sand down primer) (2000 grit if you choose to sand down the clear coat for imperfections, if you can layer down the clear coat smoothly then you won't need it like me
If you sand down the clear coat then for a great finish you will need a PC and polish it. This is an another reason why its important to layer down the clear coat nicely.2. Clean workplace, this prevents dust and other garbage to get stuck in your paint. It isn't vital but it will help with the end product.
3. Sponge, dish soap, water
4. OEM paint in a rattle can, primer for polyurethane and 2K clear coat. I got the 2K clearcoat and OEM paint from automotive touch up. Put in your color code, I have a black evo 8 and the color matched perfectly. The clear coat, although expensive it is a great clear coat and will protect the front lip better from fading. I got the primer in a ace hardware but I am sure the polyurethane adhesive helper will work fine.
5. 2 Red nozzles for cans/painters mask This will make the paint come out better than then the nozzle that usually comes with the can. I had one laying around but I am sure you can get one from home depot or local parts store.
Steps:
1. Wash your lip with the sponge and with dish soap removing oil and other crap, you don't want to be sanding down road grime and other garbage.
2. Sand down the old paint to bare polyurethane and sand down scratches to your standard.
3. Paint the the lip with the primer. 2-3 coats waiting 30 minutes in between each coat. Light coats and make sure you don't get any runs. Shake the can till the bottom of the can has dents in it. Shake the can every couple of sprays to get the paint stirred up so its consistent. It is good to practice with primer because then if you mess up you can just sand it down. Wait at least 24 hours before the next step.
4. Wet sand with 600-800 grit sand paper lightly, applying little pressure just smooth out the primer. Then wash again with the sponge and dish soap to get rid of oils and sanded down material.
5. Grab your can of base coat and shake it till the bottom of the can has indents in it or for 2 minutes. Start applying slowly and evenly. Do 3 coats, waiting 10 minutes in between each coat. Make sure you don't get any runs in this step, especially in later coats !!! If you do get a run let the coat dry and then wet sand it down. It is very important that you do not get runs in this step. Its not going to look as good if you fix it, so it is very important not to get runs.
Reminder: Keep the area that you are working in clean condition.
6. Let the paint dry over night. I am sure the can of paint might say a shorter time but I just did it for assurance of a good bond to the lip. Next get the painters mask. There was a cheapo white painter mask that I found in my garage and that I used. You will need to cover your air passages because the clear coat is toxic. Follow the directions on the can to mix it because it is a 2 part clear coat. Start applying the clear coat, nice, slowly and evenly REMEMBER NO RUNS ! This is an another vital part in this step because if you do get runs it will have to be sanded down and it will not look as good even if you use a compound or a polish.
And your lip should come out looking like this !
Sorry but no pics on the car, my evo is getting worked on so the lip is just sitting in my room
But once the car is up and running then I will get my girlfriend to use her nice camera to take pictures of the whole car and better close ups of the lip, getting that close to the paint was the only way the camera was focusing. Over all the entire process took me with the help of my dad on occasion; 4 days and only for about 40 bucks. No need to spend a lot of money on something that will get damaged anyways.
Good luck guys!
Last edited by TomekEVO; Jun 1, 2015 at 06:18 PM.
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