smokey

iTrader: (15)

Because of my wonderful Mistu dealership : who said my brakes were fine for another couple of months, I have now gone past my right rear pad and directly into the rotor.

I now need a new one, the mitsu dealership won't pay for a new one and want to charge me $262 for one right rear rotor. F--- that!!

If anyone has a new or used right rear rotor for sale please let me know. I am looking to either buy a used one (from someone who has changed the rotors out for better ones) or I just might go spend the $700 it will cost to get all 4 slotted rotors.

Please help me if you can. I would like to try and locate a used rotor first.

Thank you very much

naucrx

iTrader: (19)

How many miles on your car?

I say just spring for 4 slotted rotors if you can afford it. But then again a $262 rear rotor is a lot cheaper than 4 slotted rotors. Hopefully someone here will hook you up with a used one. That would definitely be the cheapest route.

smokey

iTrader: (15)

21500 miles on my car. I had the brake pads already on order, but in a mateer of only 3 days. my rotor has been shot.

tsi90awd

How badly is the rotor damaged? If it's bad, You could try just getting the rotor turned at a machine shop. Or, if it isn't bad, you might be able to just stick some new pads in the caliper and forget about it.

Last year, I wore my front pads down to the backing plates on a road track (lousy Porterfield R4S pads). According to spectators, there was sparks flying out the wheel well under heavy braking. I just stuck the stock pads back in, went out on the track, and the rotors have been fine ever since. YMMV

machron1

iTrader: (1)

Did you get metal-to-metal from the backing plate to the rotor, or just that wear "sensor" (grinder)? If it's just a groove from that wear sensor, I say just use the rotor. If not, try to resurface the rotor. I can't see how 3 days of wear could destroy a rotor like that.

smokey

iTrader: (15)

It's metal on metal. It's grinding the caliper to the rotor. The top of the rotor has a lip normally. The lip is grinded away and now it is scratched about a halfinch down from the top. Not only does it grind when I apply the brake, but you can hear the rotor hitting the calliper when I drive. Almost as if the rotor is stuck to the caliper. I don't know enough about rotors, but it looks as if someone took a rock and grinded it on the rotor.

At the same time it looks like it is only on the very top layer of the rotor.

Any suggestions.

WildRice

smokey you do not have a normal condition. There is no way a caliper can touch a rotor in the way you describe unless you have a defect. Go get a reputable brake shop to evaluate what is going on, your dealer is not being honest with you.

machron1

iTrader: (1)

Well, it's only about $15 to have a brake shop resurface the rotor. I would try that first and see if they can get the surface smooth and still keep it within spec, although you might want to resurface both rear rotors to the same thickness so they maintain equal heat retention/dissipation characteristics so you get even braking.

machron1

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about that, I've noticed the rear calipers tend to drag themselves on the rotors. Maybe that's why I'm on my third set of rear pads and only my second set of fronts.

smokey

iTrader: (15)

Sorry for my ignorance. I may not know exactly what is going on. It is just griniding. It sounds horrible and the rotor has now been scratched from the top of the rotor down a half an inch.

I have heard that it can be resurfaced but I don't know if it is beyond repair or not.

machron1

iTrader: (1)

All you have to do is find the minimum allowable thickness of the rotor in the manual, then measure the deepest damaged area with an outside micrometer. If the minimum allowable thickness is less than the thinnest part of the damaged area, it can more than likely be repaired, although if it's close to the limit it's sort of iffy.

Gumpy

Smokey,

My car is doing the exact same thing yours is. I think my caliper is stuck. The brakes seem on all the time on the right rear. The caliper is hot as hell on the right rear, but not any others. I have been unsuccessful in dealing with mitsu. I have gone through new rotors and pads and resurfaced the rotors. I think the calipers are the problem. Let me know whtat you find out.

Gumpy.

AUSS1E

iTrader: (15)

Why buy stock when you can have better quality ones that wont warp for about the same money as 1 stock rotor. Check out the group buy here.... https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=129119

navypaul

iTrader: (2)

i agree i think something is up... but even assuming nothing is wrong the dealership still told u were good on them and 3 days later it went south so ebviously the dealership missjudged it and they should be held responsible... i say keep bugging them i wrk at a dealership and i can honestly tell u that makeing u belive that the problem is urs is a way of life for them dont let them get the best of u they need to pay up for it assume u were to have an accident cause they told u it was ok what then!!! i say power to the people!!! ok im getting carried away :P but yeah keep pusshing for them to fix it

smokey

iTrader: (15)

Now that I have new rotors and brakes on my car the brakes work fine, but I have a feeling that the right rear rotor is still working harder then the other three. The other three wheels barely have brake dust on it when I go to wash the car, but the right rear always seams to have more. I swear that is is touching the rotor at all times. I will check with a mitsu dealership and see what they say.