DingDong02

I recently had a friend of mine (certified machanic) install my brake pads on my stock evo 8. He resurfaced my rotors and I later find out thats not good. Anyways brakes seem fine until a few weeks later they start to squeek then they vibrate like crazy. I beedded them in properly but they are 100% shot and dangerous to drive on. I dont do any road racing or crazy street racing or autocrossing. I just need good overall brakes that will do well for some basic everyday driving, city driving, bumper to bumper driving, and maybe my own little spirrited driving once in a blue moon.

-Which rotors and where can I get them would be the best?

-I just replaced the brake pads a month ago, do I need to replace them when getting new rotors?

-I want rotors that are hard to warp if possible.

Thanks,

Need answers ASAP!!!!!

Thanks again

Matt

njboy

iTrader: (1)

Did you use stock pads? I'm not convinced that the cause of these "warping" problems are the rotors themselves. I plan to use a more abrasive pad to reduce or
eliminate material buildup on the rotor.

TouringBubble

iTrader: (2)

The same things happens with VW's ... turn the rotors and they warp after a few hundred miles. It sucks.

I don't know what rotors to suggest since I'm an Evo noob. About the pads though ... technically, you can use the same pads. However, I would suggest replacing the pads as well since they are most likely worn very unevenly. That wear on the pads might just wear off and mate up to the rotors, but it may also apply uneven force to the rotors and possibly damage them.

This is just a theory as I have never experienced it myself. I say better safe than sorry though. Good luck with the repairs.

Punkskalar

iTrader: (1)

Turning rotors makes them thinner, which causes them cool down quicker yes... BUT they don't cool evenly if parked hot as the area that is covered by the pads will stay hot... hence warped rotors... Also, at higher temps the thinner rotors will lose shape even if cooled evenly....

EVO X Owner-2-B

iTrader: (14)

I had my rotors turned. I wish I hadn't. The resulting steering wheel judder and pulsating pedal drive me nuts. Not all rotor resurfacing jobs suck like mine and yours, though. We got unlucky.

My rotors are near their min' specs for thickness, so it's time for a change anyways. I decided to do my front brakes first - to take care of my steering wheel and pedal prob's. Had I enough money, I'd take care of the rears, also. I'll have to wait until tax season and the plush refund that it'll bring. Back on topic, I decided on Racing Brake's 1-piece slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads.

After a few weeks of research, I decided that I was gonna go the 2-piece rotors and Ferodo DS2500 pads route, but decided otherwise: as my wife drives my Evo quite frequently and drives it rather slowly, I figure the Hawk HPS pads would offer more cold, initial bite and that the 2-piece rotors would be overkill - the car is strictly a go-fast street rod.

Here are some links of the Racing Brake rotors:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...4&page=1&pp=15
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...1&page=1&pp=15
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=167245


For some good info on the HPS pads, simply do an advanced search in the "Evo Tires, Wheels, Brakes & Suspension - Sponsored by Tire Rack" forum and enter only "HPS".

I received the rotors and pads yesterday and plan on installing them today.

Good luck!

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=81487

Then get you some blank rotors from R1concepts and some Ferodo DS2500 pads from Cal at Speed Element. I can run the Ferodos on OE rotors for over 30k miles with performance GREATLY improved. I'm now running a fresh set on the R1concepts blank rotors at 54k on the Evo. This setup is real easy on the wallet compared to most other sets out there.

Make sure you peel the fiber shims off the OE pads and reuse them for OE quiet operation.

EVO X Owner-2-B

iTrader: (14)

Not a bad option, either. I personally like the Racing Brake rotors better, however. If my wife didn't drive my Evo so much, I would definitely go the Ferodo route. Always contact Racing Brake directly or Hotlapmotorsports.com via phone or EvoM private message for special pricing on Racing Brake stuff. I agree: Speed Element (mpjperformance.com) has the best deal for Ferodos.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

i highly doubt any of you guys actually have warped rotors.

I wish i could like insert the massive stoptech post everytime somebody "thinks" they warped a rotor.

I couldn't kill stock rotors on track. They heat more than i'd like, and don't cool well, but still i can't warp them. You definatly don't on the streets.

It's pad transfer. Go out and get them hot, rebed the pads in.

I feel like a broken record, but the search function on this site is specifically disabled for this problem right here.

hvacmike

warmpepsi hit the nail on the head. goto stoptech.com and read up.

first thing you can do to stop uneven pad buildup on rotors is keep your foot off the brake when stopped whenever possible, esp after using the brakes hard and getting them hot.

DingDong02

Well WARMPEPSI if you read my first post I bedded my pad in correctly the first time, then I also did it a few more times after the first time. My steering wheel started to shake and now its really bad. I have a problem with putting my foot on the brake while at a stop light while my pads are heated up so I know for a fact that they are warped. Thanks for everyones elses help though. I am thinking about r1concepts, or disc. brakes australia slotted. Thanks again

-Matt

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

That is 100% pad transfer.

You get the pad material and the rotor material hot, and then let them stick together, it leaves an imprint the shape of the brake pad.

Will do it everytime with track pads, and occasionally with street pads. If youre running the oem pads still, they're prone to that, as if you open up this wheel/suspension/brake forum, you'll see a couple threads per page of "OMG!!!, my brakes are warpzered!"

Measure the rotors for runout, and thickness around the rotor surface. (cheap caliper at harbor freight). Thats the only way to tell if they're warped. If i can't warp them doing 125-35, and other near-lock braking @ sebring for 25-30 minutes at a time, you sure as CRAP cant warp them on the street. Warped rotors are a myth on a modern street car.

Thats the first thing most new car enthusiasts learn when they attend their FIRST track day. They think they toasted their rotors/pads, their car is shot. 5 minutes later, it's back to normal, no pulsing.

Continuing... Your right foot can feel up to .005 of pad thickness transfer. Because when the pad rubs over the spot where there is extra pad, it stops a little harder, and when it passes it, it lets go, causing a "pulsing" sensation.

Again, for all you street-evo driving people that think they warped your rotors because you're hardcore, it doesn't happen.

Better yet, i've got a new way to tell if you warped them. Post pics of your front calipers. If they're not burgandy/black, you haven't even used them.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

Also, did you think to check if that "squeak" was the wear indicator? Thats a surefire way to kill rotors.

EVO X Owner-2-B

iTrader: (14)

Here are some tips that I learned from first-hand experience and my countless hours of EvoM research:

1. Listen and feel your brakes. They will let you know when they're ready to be replaced. There's a huge difference between common brake noise and worn brake noise. One is momentary, the other is constant.

2. Yes, as it's been said here, if your brakes are hot, avoid resting the pads on the calipers when at a stop. Use the e-brake's drum brake if there's no way around coming to a standstill. I, myself, make this a habit no matter the situation. Pad transfer is a bi*ch. However, if I'm on level ground and won't roll, I'll apply no brake.

3. Brake pads will wear unevenly. An installed pad from all visual points might still appear to have enough material. Peeking through wheel spokes or even removing a wheel and looking through the top of the caliper (through the spring) will not offer a good look at a pad, especially the ones on the inside of the rotor. The best inspection is done by removing the pads from the caliper. The procedure is easy as removing a wheel.

4. If there's no need to resurface/turn your rotors, don't. Rebed with the new pads to get rid of any transfer or simply buy new rotors if they're near their min' thickness.

By the way, another way to kill a rotor is to take it to the "technicians" that work at my local auto shop on base (military). They're nice guys and all, but I believe they don't know what they're doing half the time. My rotors before the resurfacing/turning job felt fine. Afterwards they were wobbly. I wanted to get rid of the unsightly wear marks on the outer edge of two of the rotors/discs: I let the OE Brembo pads go too long before they started to cut and gouge my rotors.
I had planned to get a brake job done at a dealer and pay the obscene price for labor and parts - $1000-plus. I didn't have that kind of money then and was forced to do the job myself.

It's funny how apprehensive I was then about working on cars and not trusting my work. Now, after reading up on this forum countless times using the search feature, after investing in some tools, and after having access to more tools and a lift on base, something like doing a complete brake job is cake. Now most all maintenance is done my me. No more will I wonder so much about what the local Mitsu' service department did to my car. The sense of accomplishment is a great feeling, also.

Time to go bed my new Hawk HPS pads onto my new Racing Brake 1-piece, slotted rotors.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

exactly. everybody is scared of it, then they do it, and they're like...wtf? why was i so scared?

ashumo

iTrader: (6)

only reason i turned my rotors was to knock off the lip i had...it was cutting into the pad and causeing the pad to not make a full contact. im at min thickness...next step new rotors.

warmpepsi is probably right....rebed the pads.

as for what rotors...thats based on your budget. im going to go with 1pc DBA 6x6 wipers...or two piece PFC and a dba slotted rear...depends on my budget when i get there.