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noob question about higher rear spring rate vs. rear sway bar and advice on rates

Old Mar 27, 2008, 09:27 AM
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noob question about higher rear spring rate vs. rear sway bar and advice on rates

I have been trying to decide on a set of coilovers, and I am pretty sure about getting the Stance AL+ for what best suits my budget (although if I discovered something much better for $1500-2000 I would consider it instead)...
I keep finding conflicting info about F/R spring rates... From what I've read it seems to be better having higher rear spring rates than front, although most companies offer 1-2K higher rates in the front... and other, such as PIC/Pure Tuning offer 4K higher rates in the rear... I want to keep very neutral handling with ability to easily induce oversteer...

So my questions are:

1.) How much will having an adjustable rear sway bar offset the rear spring rate? (I have a 24mm Whiteline installed, adjustable from 22-26mm)- so can you make a 10k f/9k r handle like it has 10K/10K or 10K/12K just by adjusting it to the stiffest setting?

2.) What spring rates would you choose given my mods listed below? (Trying to decide whether or not to order these with different spring rates)

*My current suspension mods are:
MR Bilsteins w/Works MR springs (1.2"drop front/0.9"rear), stock f strut brace, Cusco rear strut brace, Mitsu RS rear trunk bar, Whiteline 24mm rear sway, stock front sway, plus running on 18x9.5+38 RPF1s with 255/35/18 RE01s, no negative camber... this is a non- daily driven car that I dont mind having a very harsh ride, and I am going to start Auto-x this spring, but its is mainly only taken out for aggressive driving. I plan on dropping another 1" or so on coilovers with Whiteline bumpsteer kit/trail arm bushings...

I am Looking at the Stance AL+ coilovers which comes with either 9k/8K or 14K/12K, but was wondering if with my mods and desire for no understeer if I should choose different spring rates.. I am thinking about 10k front/ 12K rear.... Please chime in with your opinions, and thanks in advance!!!!
Old Mar 27, 2008, 10:13 AM
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Old Mar 27, 2008, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DJ Brett B
I have been trying to decide on a set of coilovers, and I am pretty sure about getting the Stance AL+ for what best suits my budget (although if I discovered something much better for $1500-2000 I would consider it instead)...
I keep finding conflicting info about F/R spring rates... From what I've read it seems to be better having higher rear spring rates than front, although most companies offer 1-2K higher rates in the front... and other, such as PIC/Pure Tuning offer 4K higher rates in the rear... I want to keep very neutral handling with ability to easily induce oversteer...

So my questions are:

1.) How much will having an adjustable rear sway bar offset the rear spring rate? (I have a 24mm Whiteline installed, adjustable from 22-26mm)- so can you make a 10k f/9k r handle like it has 10K/10K or 10K/12K just by adjusting it to the stiffest setting?

2.) What spring rates would you choose given my mods listed below? (Trying to decide whether or not to order these with different spring rates)

*My current suspension mods are:
MR Bilsteins w/Works MR springs (1.2"drop front/0.9"rear), stock f strut brace, Cusco rear strut brace, Mitsu RS rear trunk bar, Whiteline 24mm rear sway, stock front sway, plus running on 18x9.5+38 RPF1s with 255/35/18 RE01s, no negative camber... this is a non- daily driven car that I dont mind having a very harsh ride, and I am going to start Auto-x this spring, but its is mainly only taken out for aggressive driving. I plan on dropping another 1" or so on coilovers with Whiteline bumpsteer kit/trail arm bushings...

I am Looking at the Stance AL+ coilovers which comes with either 9k/8K or 14K/12K, but was wondering if with my mods and desire for no understeer if I should choose different spring rates.. I am thinking about 10k front/ 12K rear.... Please chime in with your opinions, and thanks in advance!!!!
Get me all the dimensions of your whiteline bar and I can calculate the spring rate for you. The dimensions of the stock bar will help as well. Let me know and i'll PM you the measurements i need.


- Andrew
Old Mar 27, 2008, 09:39 PM
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Well I will tell you your first problem. Get an alignment. Anything under -2degrees will not adversly affect your tires unless all you do is drive in a strait line. Just keep your tires rotated. Something like -2f and -1.5r would work well. Having all that suspension and running no camber is worthless. Running 0 toe is what you want too not wear tires.
Old Mar 28, 2008, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by dbsears87
Well I will tell you your first problem. Get an alignment. Anything under -2degrees will not adversly affect your tires unless all you do is drive in a strait line. Just keep your tires rotated. Something like -2f and -1.5r would work well. Having all that suspension and running no camber is worthless. Running 0 toe is what you want too not wear tires.

thanks for the reply, although i think you may have misunderstood my post... I plan on running -2.5 camber in front and -1.5 in the rear, with zero toe once I get coilovers.... right now I am on the MR's Bilstein shocks lowered on Works springs, with zero negative camber, zero toe....

I am mainly trying to decide whether or not to order my coilovers with higher rear spring rate than the fronts... I posted all the info about my current mods and driving style, along with the coilovers i am considering and what spring rates they are offered in back in post 1... Stance AL+ coilovers, they come with higher front rates than rear, but I am tryng to decide whether or not to order them higher in the rear, such as 10k front/12K rear.... thanks guys for your input!
Old Mar 28, 2008, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DJ Brett B
I have been trying to decide on a set of coilovers, and I am pretty sure about getting the Stance AL+ for what best suits my budget (although if I discovered something much better for $1500-2000 I would consider it instead)...
I keep finding conflicting info about F/R spring rates... From what I've read it seems to be better having higher rear spring rates than front, although most companies offer 1-2K higher rates in the front... and other, such as PIC/Pure Tuning offer 4K higher rates in the rear... I want to keep very neutral handling with ability to easily induce oversteer...

So my questions are:

1.) How much will having an adjustable rear sway bar offset the rear spring rate? (I have a 24mm Whiteline installed, adjustable from 22-26mm)- so can you make a 10k f/9k r handle like it has 10K/10K or 10K/12K just by adjusting it to the stiffest setting?

2.) What spring rates would you choose given my mods listed below? (Trying to decide whether or not to order these with different spring rates)

*My current suspension mods are:
MR Bilsteins w/Works MR springs (1.2"drop front/0.9"rear), stock f strut brace, Cusco rear strut brace, Mitsu RS rear trunk bar, Whiteline 24mm rear sway, stock front sway, plus running on 18x9.5+38 RPF1s with 255/35/18 RE01s, no negative camber... this is a non- daily driven car that I dont mind having a very harsh ride, and I am going to start Auto-x this spring, but its is mainly only taken out for aggressive driving. I plan on dropping another 1" or so on coilovers with Whiteline bumpsteer kit/trail arm bushings...

I am Looking at the Stance AL+ coilovers which comes with either 9k/8K or 14K/12K, but was wondering if with my mods and desire for no understeer if I should choose different spring rates.. I am thinking about 10k front/ 12K rear.... Please chime in with your opinions, and thanks in advance!!!!
Okay I see...I just read no negative camber is was like
Old Mar 28, 2008, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by GTWORX.com
Get me all the dimensions of your whiteline bar and I can calculate the spring rate for you. The dimensions of the stock bar will help as well. Let me know and i'll PM you the measurements i need.


- Andrew

thanks Andrew, I will try to look up the diameter of the front sway bar (it is stock) but the White Line rear sway bar I just put on is 24mm. front strut brace is stock and rear is the carbon fiber cusco (not sure diameter on that, I'll see if I can find out)... I like oversteer though and am worried that without higher rear spring rates when I switch to coilovers my car may understeer like when I first bought it... right now it handles great, just not low enough or stiff enough suspension
Old Mar 28, 2008, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dbsears87
Okay I see...I just read no negative camber is was like

lol sorry I probabaly didn't word that very clearly!
Old Mar 28, 2008, 03:11 PM
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You might search for posts by chronohunter ( Paul Gerard one of the hotshoes and suspension specialist hired to re-valve the Vishnu spec Ohlins) on the subject. Or pm him

IIRc he used 500 in front and 600 in rear. He also used a stock rear bar. This for a road racer / time attack pro car. -3+ up front -1.5 out back Toe set at the course

Yes you can tune using the rear bar...but all the books i've read and experiences I've had...tune the springs to get the basic attitude of the car, tune the shocks to maintain grip, fine tune using alignment and bar balance, change driving style to suit car in that order.

Check out Carroll Smiths suspension books too .

Milburn
Old Mar 28, 2008, 03:43 PM
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thanks wrcwannabe- I'll have to check into that...
here are the coilovers i am looking at:

http://www.stance-usa.com/al.php
Old Mar 28, 2008, 08:20 PM
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Those list for 1600 bucks. For $2300 you can get KW3 Variant with reservoirs. The valving will actually work very well, separate compression adjust and rebound adjust. And a real difference between full hard and full soft. Or look into the Ohlins single adjustables. GtWorx sells those IIRC

I ve used cheap coilovers before like D2 and Megan. The valving adjustment simply has very little effect and you will not be able to tell effectively the effect of the adjustment.

Robi sells KW3 Variants specially valved and properly setup for the EVO including Cusco camber plates.

Realistically if you want to really compete then those are the beginning choices. Yes they are more expensive. But well worth it.
Old Mar 30, 2008, 11:09 AM
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I like the KW... may just have to save up a bit more and get some of those... I wouldnt use the Megan or other cheap coilovers.... I could get the Stance for under $1500, so I guess price-wise they are also cheap.... I heard good things about them, but i suppose the valving on the Robi KWs would be worth the extra money
Old Mar 31, 2008, 07:17 PM
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^ Its only worth it if your car is a track **** and you are highly competitive. If you aren't running R-compounds wider than 255 then I doubt you need anything stiffer than 10k/10k.

Honestly I think most sub $1400 coilovers with identical spring rates will perform the same. The difference may come with how long they last. The more expensive coilovers tend to have better travel and more than likely will last.

I'm not sure you'll see much of an improvement over what you have now unless you run more camber and more tire.

If I were you I'd get the roll center kit and an aggressive alignment.
Old Apr 1, 2008, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by wrcwannabe
Those list for 1600 bucks. For $2300 you can get KW3 Variant with reservoirs.
...or for $2250 you can get the ZZYZX setup with DA Konis. Much better dampers than whatever KW uses.

Don't lower the car too much. Evo suspensions don't like to sit really low.

Last edited by GTLocke13; Apr 1, 2008 at 08:54 AM.
Old Apr 1, 2008, 09:49 AM
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^ The ZZYZXs aren't readily available.

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