Front Ball Joint Replacement - Warning
#18
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no idea...
Doesn't matter The Whiteline GUYS are awesome and GTWORX has already taken care of me... could have been the roads here in MI are HORRIBLE... i mean worse i have ever seen... maybe that is it... no idea... but i have new ones coming whether i purchase or they send me news ones the Whitelines have been golden...
especially since i have lowered the car the kit helped out greatly. but that was my noise issues... Problem resolved and that is all i care about.
especially since i have lowered the car the kit helped out greatly. but that was my noise issues... Problem resolved and that is all i care about.
#21
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Something seems fishy here. I wasn't looking for dirt or anything negative about any company, just info about what happened to help avoid the situation you ended up in. Now it looks too much like someone "got to you". It's great that they took care of you and all, but ball joint failure is a potentially lethal situation, and any info that can be learned from such failures should not be covered up.
#22
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He contacted me and said they were loose and making noise. I contacted Whiteline. Whiteline sent him a new set. That's really all that happened.
What I really think is going on at Whiteline is that the very first batch of EVO roll center kits had a handful of bad apples (very few), and they then increased quality control in response. There was no "failure," just noise and a little too much looseness that shouldn't be there.
- Andrew
What I really think is going on at Whiteline is that the very first batch of EVO roll center kits had a handful of bad apples (very few), and they then increased quality control in response. There was no "failure," just noise and a little too much looseness that shouldn't be there.
- Andrew
Last edited by GTWORX.com; May 8, 2008 at 05:36 PM.
#23
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you are correct! you just need to find the part number. somehow MMNA doesn't list the ball joint separately but you can buy them oem balljoints- it is out there. Just like the control arm bushing are sold separately.
#24
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He contacted me and said they were loose and making noise. I contacted Whiteline. Whiteline sent him a new set. That's really all that happened.
What I really think is going on at Whiteline is that the very first batch of EVO roll center kits had a handful of bad apples (very few), and they then increased quality control in response. There was no "failure," just noise and a little too much looseness that shouldn't be there.
- Andrew
What I really think is going on at Whiteline is that the very first batch of EVO roll center kits had a handful of bad apples (very few), and they then increased quality control in response. There was no "failure," just noise and a little too much looseness that shouldn't be there.
- Andrew
#25
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iTrader: (12)
Ball Joints
Yeah...
about 1 month after my coilovers installed popping and clunking noises started coming from under the car (center left area)... we thought tranny or transfer case (i never slam, or race off line, my trans and clutch still factory... i didn't think this was it) we tore the whole car apart retorqued everything. the car was 100% as we could see... still the clunking and mainly from left side to center...
so I went and had all the fluids done at Ann Arbor MITSU (FREINDLY DEALER TO AFTER MARKET EVO's) and they did a fantastic job and i told them to find the issue... sure enough they called and said yeah you after market ball joints are lose... and they could repalce the A ARMS for 1700.00 ummm no... turned that down, called Andrew at GTWORX... BTW if you need parts suspension especially Andrew knows his S***....
so moving on... he said whiteline is excellent company should be no issue... 2 days later i have new ones... they are being installed tomorrow.
prepaid label to ship the bad ones back...
VR Performance is also going to do a once over on the A ARMS to make sure any other OEM BJ's are not bad... (I truly hope not... i have not been able to find after market's for those...)
between GTWORX and VR Performance in MI... i have a really nice solid car...
about 1 month after my coilovers installed popping and clunking noises started coming from under the car (center left area)... we thought tranny or transfer case (i never slam, or race off line, my trans and clutch still factory... i didn't think this was it) we tore the whole car apart retorqued everything. the car was 100% as we could see... still the clunking and mainly from left side to center...
so I went and had all the fluids done at Ann Arbor MITSU (FREINDLY DEALER TO AFTER MARKET EVO's) and they did a fantastic job and i told them to find the issue... sure enough they called and said yeah you after market ball joints are lose... and they could repalce the A ARMS for 1700.00 ummm no... turned that down, called Andrew at GTWORX... BTW if you need parts suspension especially Andrew knows his S***....
so moving on... he said whiteline is excellent company should be no issue... 2 days later i have new ones... they are being installed tomorrow.
prepaid label to ship the bad ones back...
VR Performance is also going to do a once over on the A ARMS to make sure any other OEM BJ's are not bad... (I truly hope not... i have not been able to find after market's for those...)
between GTWORX and VR Performance in MI... i have a really nice solid car...
#26
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WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING
ANYONE ATTEMPTING THIS MOD PLEASE READ. YOUR LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
I replaced my ball joints a few years ago. While the ball joint appears sysmetrical, it is not. There is only one way for it to go into the spindle. It is very easy to think that it is seated in the spindle correctly when it is not. If it sticks down even a 1/16 of an inch off the bottom of the spindle, it is not seated. What can happen if it is not seated? You can loose your wheel while traveling at highway speed and DIE! It happened to me. Thank god it was at low speed and no major damage was done. I am not a nob and have been working on cars for 20 years. Please take note.
ANYONE ATTEMPTING THIS MOD PLEASE READ. YOUR LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
I replaced my ball joints a few years ago. While the ball joint appears sysmetrical, it is not. There is only one way for it to go into the spindle. It is very easy to think that it is seated in the spindle correctly when it is not. If it sticks down even a 1/16 of an inch off the bottom of the spindle, it is not seated. What can happen if it is not seated? You can loose your wheel while traveling at highway speed and DIE! It happened to me. Thank god it was at low speed and no major damage was done. I am not a nob and have been working on cars for 20 years. Please take note.
#27
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Isn't there a circlip that snaps on once it's all the way in? Come to think of it, the only pressure placed on the ball joint is in an upwards direction, that should only pull it in tighter if it's not all the way in.
#28
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So is this your ghost? (sorry I couldn't help myself)
Isn't there a circlip that snaps on once it's all the way in? Come to think of it, the only pressure placed on the ball joint is in an upwards direction, that should only pull it in tighter if it's not all the way in.
Isn't there a circlip that snaps on once it's all the way in? Come to think of it, the only pressure placed on the ball joint is in an upwards direction, that should only pull it in tighter if it's not all the way in.
#30
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Yeah wtf??? Running with no clip... I did mine a year ago. Pretty sure the clip went on the top.
Did it drop down out of the ball joint hole? It should have still been bolted to the spindle, but when it dropped down that inch or two the suspension became all out of wack and snapped the axel???? Don't see how you would actually loose the wheel though. Even thought the ball joint falls out of the seat, it's still bolted to the spindle and trapped in the arm hole, plus the steering is still attached to the knuckle.
Don't get me wrong if that ball joint slid out it would cause one hell of a scary moment, but I think a competent driver should be able to get out of fine.
Be ready for anything. I did formula racing in the SCCA for 3 years and would do a quick nut and bolt check on every critical item after each session.
Safety wire every critical nut/bolt. Why... because I learned the hard way at the uphill at LRP. Scariest spot to have a mechanical failure and this was before the tire wall. Armco with earth behind it, hurts. I have hit a tire wall before which was my fault (pushing too hard, red mist), and couldn't feel anything it felt like landing in pillows. lol
Think how many people run there cars on the street for like 10 years without even checking nuts and bolts on suspension items.
Did it drop down out of the ball joint hole? It should have still been bolted to the spindle, but when it dropped down that inch or two the suspension became all out of wack and snapped the axel???? Don't see how you would actually loose the wheel though. Even thought the ball joint falls out of the seat, it's still bolted to the spindle and trapped in the arm hole, plus the steering is still attached to the knuckle.
Don't get me wrong if that ball joint slid out it would cause one hell of a scary moment, but I think a competent driver should be able to get out of fine.
Be ready for anything. I did formula racing in the SCCA for 3 years and would do a quick nut and bolt check on every critical item after each session.
Safety wire every critical nut/bolt. Why... because I learned the hard way at the uphill at LRP. Scariest spot to have a mechanical failure and this was before the tire wall. Armco with earth behind it, hurts. I have hit a tire wall before which was my fault (pushing too hard, red mist), and couldn't feel anything it felt like landing in pillows. lol
Think how many people run there cars on the street for like 10 years without even checking nuts and bolts on suspension items.