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The Brake Rotor, Pad, Line, Fluid, and Duct Thread

Old Jan 5, 2017, 09:54 AM
  #586  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
100#% disagree with the pad choice. For a stock turbo EVO, those are likely fine. But if you're making 500-600whp, you need better pads. I run Racong Brake xt910 up front, and et800's in the rear for street use. Pretty quite, good cold bite, and very consistent with higher temperatures.
what happened to st43s?
Old Jan 5, 2017, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by SWOLN
Ferrodo DS2500s or Racing Brake XT910 up front, and ET900's/800's/500's in the back? Anyone used both and can comment? I'm getting an HP bump here soon 600-ish and need something better for the street.

XT910's up front and ET900 out back is a great high hp aggressive street setup. Currently on my car and a friends car.

Originally Posted by kyoo
what happened to st43s?

ST43's are my track only pads, I have a different set of rotors for them as well.
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Old Jan 20, 2017, 02:21 PM
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Would there be any reason to get the Centric premium rotors over the EBC's? I can find the front pair of EBC's for $110 as apposed to $150 for the Centrics..

Anyone have a link to a good place to buy them?
Old Feb 21, 2018, 05:51 PM
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I am experiencing some serious brake squeal on stock pads and rotors. 7k miles. Bought brand new. I drive lightly. Is it a common issue or ....
Old Feb 21, 2018, 07:00 PM
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question - how common is it for track guys to be running different front and rear pads?

i was going to just run st43s in the front with my new evo x calipers and rotors, leaving girodisc s/s in the rear - is that going to be way too much front braking bias though?
Old Feb 21, 2018, 08:01 PM
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Will come back to it, looks informative
Old May 16, 2018, 01:01 AM
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Sorry to revive this thread but I was wondering if someone can help me out.

My brake setup is centric slotted carbon rotors, stop tech sport pads, SS lines and Motul fluid. This combo has great bite but I’ve noticed it seems to transfer pad material which makes lite braking extremely annoying. Since the car is my daily I’m looking to possibly replace my pads to something that doesn’t transfer material like these stoptechs for daily driving. What would you guys suggest? I’ve tried the posi-quiet ceramic pads and hated how much pedal pressure they needed to bite. Hopefully I can find a pad that will have good initial bite and not cause that warped rotor feel.
Old May 16, 2018, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by vmrevo9
Sorry to revive this thread but I was wondering if someone can help me out.

My brake setup is centric slotted carbon rotors, stop tech sport pads, SS lines and Motul fluid. This combo has great bite but I’ve noticed it seems to transfer pad material which makes lite braking extremely annoying. Since the car is my daily I’m looking to possibly replace my pads to something that doesn’t transfer material like these stoptechs for daily driving. What would you guys suggest? I’ve tried the posi-quiet ceramic pads and hated how much pedal pressure they needed to bite. Hopefully I can find a pad that will have good initial bite and not cause that warped rotor feel.
I run pretty much the same setup (High carbon Centrics, SS lines & the Stop Techs).

When I was tracking I was changing out the Stop Tech for the Carbotechs on the track. Certainly had deposits which gave me some steering wheel Vib during braking. Not tracking anymore, but on new Centrics & Stop Techs & the problem is gone. I dont DD my EvO but always have run the Stop Techs on the street w/no problem

Sorry, not much help, but have no plans on running any other high perf street pad. Even use the Stop Techs on my DD (Scion XB). BTW, I run these brakes hard on the street w/no problems
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Old May 16, 2018, 08:29 AM
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I think I may just pull everything to inspect and clean up. I may just have to adjust my braking style as I usually find that lite breaking is enough for daily driving with this setup but unfortunately it may be the cause of the pad material deposit
Old May 16, 2018, 08:32 AM
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odd, i would think the slots take care of some of that. i've tried a number of different combos, never felt like the rotor was warped. not sure what exactly you mean by the pad deposit
Old May 16, 2018, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
odd, i would think the slots take care of some of that. i've tried a number of different combos, never felt like the rotor was warped. not sure what exactly you mean by the pad deposit
Usually "warped rotors" is actually just pad material deposits on the rotor.

On another note: I have some old brake duct fittings that are 2"... I'm having trouble finding a high-temp tubing to use to route air to them. Anyone have a suggestion? Maybe my Google-fu is just messed up.... but I can't find any. Maybe why I got them so cheap LOL
Old May 16, 2018, 10:44 AM
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@kaj -- https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3631

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for. Probably better options out there
Old May 16, 2018, 11:48 AM
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I’ll try and pull everything apart soon. From what I can remember it’s been like this for a while. I like the stop tech pads in fact this is my second set. First one was under the old name of street performance pads. I tried the yellow pads after and those were horrible. Didn’t wait for them to need replacement swapped them out with my current pads. Come to think of it the yellow pads also transferred material. I just may need a whole new setup soon
Old May 16, 2018, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by migs647
@kaj -- https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3631

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for. Probably better options out there
Yes, thank you. For the life of me, I could not find anything on my own. I dunno why
Old May 16, 2018, 07:59 PM
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How do you tell if a caliper is bad. I have just disassembled all four calipers from my IX getting them ready for powder coating. Rear were pretty smooth. Pistons came right out. However on the fronts one group (one side) of pistons or one piston dragged more than the rest. Frankly some of the pistons did not slide as smoothly as the rears. I cannot see and physical damage on the walls of the pistons or cylinders.

Could I just have bad or inadequately lubed seals/pistons?
How should I go about testing the calipers before I invest the time/money of powder coating them?

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