Clunking front end noise??
#736
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
I have heard this on my friends evo 8 and recently with my ix. Both times it ended up being the 17mm nut that secures the strut piston to the top hat. On my friends car it was loose, once we tightened it the noise went away
On my it started after i replaced my shocks and i had to play around with how tight i got the nut. Too tight made the popping noise worst. I pretty much tightened it as much as possible then loosened it about 2 turns and the noise has gone away for now
Does anyone know the specific torque value for that nut?
On my it started after i replaced my shocks and i had to play around with how tight i got the nut. Too tight made the popping noise worst. I pretty much tightened it as much as possible then loosened it about 2 turns and the noise has gone away for now
Does anyone know the specific torque value for that nut?
#737
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
^^ would the top at being loose or worn out cause a toe out scenario?
My car seems to all of a sudden gotten toed out really bad. When I'm driving on the interstate and hit a bump like going over a bridge, the car will jump to one side or the other.
Also after hitting at high speed bump its like the front right wheel is bouncing up and down for a little bit after the bump, the left wheel does not do this and its out of nowhere that this started happening.
My car seems to all of a sudden gotten toed out really bad. When I'm driving on the interstate and hit a bump like going over a bridge, the car will jump to one side or the other.
Also after hitting at high speed bump its like the front right wheel is bouncing up and down for a little bit after the bump, the left wheel does not do this and its out of nowhere that this started happening.
#738
I just had this, the top strut mount came loose when I went over a pot hole and it kept making a clunking noise.
Tightened it back up and it was gone but I had to replace my front drivers side coilover b/c it was blown during the incident
Tightened it back up and it was gone but I had to replace my front drivers side coilover b/c it was blown during the incident
#739
#741
#743
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
I got a socket on the top nut of the strut but when I turned it it was turning the whole inner rod and spring. Not sure how people are getting that to turn. looks like it needs some special tool to hold the middle piece while turning the nut with some other special tool..
#747
Replaced Front strut mounts in my 2011 MR 2 days ago and it appears the noise (which had gotten horrible over last year) is gone. It usually got really bad on warmer days so I'll keep results posted.
Took 2 hours to replace. Top bolts were a PITA. Had to throw struts back on the car, dropped off stands and used impact to break free. OEM strut mount bearings suck and I'll probably have to replace again in another year but definitely worth doing.
60$ a piece from mitsubishipartswarehouse.com
part# 4060A134
Took 2 hours to replace. Top bolts were a PITA. Had to throw struts back on the car, dropped off stands and used impact to break free. OEM strut mount bearings suck and I'll probably have to replace again in another year but definitely worth doing.
60$ a piece from mitsubishipartswarehouse.com
part# 4060A134
#748
Newbie
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Santa Rosa
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Just had the noise myself in the RH front area. Checked the top nut on the strut, it was finger tight. Re torqued it, all good now. Also checked the LH side and got about a half a turn out of it. I have 05 MR Bilsteins with WORKS ride springs that have been in the car for about seven years now and this is the first sign of trouble. Now I know what to look for, really glad it was simple. Thanks to everyone for all the input.
#750
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
tapping this thread for suggestions - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...inks-help.html
noise started after clutch job & fsb swap - not the endlinks, tried driving with the fsb totally disconnected - can feel the popping through the pedals & floor. subframe was lowered slightly to make space for the clutch job, and I have a feeling something's still not aligned correctly there. any other ideas greatly appreciated
noise started after clutch job & fsb swap - not the endlinks, tried driving with the fsb totally disconnected - can feel the popping through the pedals & floor. subframe was lowered slightly to make space for the clutch job, and I have a feeling something's still not aligned correctly there. any other ideas greatly appreciated