kcarpent

Hi!
Whiteline Bushings vs Energy Suspension or Works

Are there big differences in them or are they all basically the same urethane bushings?

I'm starting with the fronts and working my way back.

Also do these things squeak much?

Also which locations need to be harder like Delrin or Aluminum.

Thanks

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

AFAIK, theirs no significant durometer difference between the three. Ive had both energy and whiteline trailing arm bushing in my hand and just tossed on the energy stuff since it was cheaper and I thought I could sell the others for more money.

Its been said black energy bushings are pre-preg with graphite or something (sorry, been drinking a bit ). I do recall that was only old stuff, but if you order a kit it might be worth getting a complete energy sus kit in black.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

What is the purpose of the car? Why do you want bushings?

Now, I have them all on my racecar. Everyone you can change. Would I do that on a daily driver - hell no . You'll hear and feel every squeak, bump, vibration, ant crossing road.

I'd just do front lower motor mount on a DD for shifts and motor rock.

kcarpent

Mostly a daily driver with an occasional track day.

I figured that since I'm fixing all of the other suspension stuff, it would be a good time to do the bushings too.

I'm also making the assumption that the bushings need to be replaced also.

The car has about 100K miles.

Am I being over zealous on what all I'm replacing?

Thanks again.

CoachG

iTrader: (4)

I swapped in the full kit after putting over 100k on my VIII. With the slop gone from the worn old bushings, the car feels like it did when new. Surgical in the turns.

600+hp

iTrader: (5)

Having just done mine, the best advice I can tell you is that you got to be very selective about which bushings to swap out.
I'll start with the front lower control arm. Stock is already very good, if you want to do the roll center correction kit that's your choice but unless you're going to go pillow ball the inner bushings should not be changed unless they're worn in which case I'll replace them with stock parts.

bhmax

iTrader: (2)

The little I've searched about the front lower engine mount has me leaning towards the AGP. Would like to get rid of some of the driveline slack when getting on/off the gas. Sounds like that's the best way to do it? Any other brand better for a DD with regards to minimal excess vibration?

whiteline jim

Hi Guys,

We were alerted to this post and thought we maybe able to add some information to help.

Our bush range has been updated over the past few years with the new launch of the Whiteline plus range in black and with new knurling inside the bushing they now retain grease and squeaks of the past have not been an issue in a long time.

We develop each of our bushings with testing and if we feel we can make it perform better than the factory bush we will design it to perform better than factory equipment .Most companies will just reverse copy the factory bush in polyurethane and they are just a replacement bush and have not been designed for handling increase.

In bushings that were known for NVH ours are tested and we feel if they will be to solid and increase NVH we will add voiding to the bushing to become a great bush for street use application with the odd track day.
If a bush is built solid for strength and we feel it has too much NVH we will call it a "motor sport" bush and list it race only as NVH is not a problem on the track.

Whiteline now also has a lifetime warranty which must prove that we are prepared to stand by our product and a quick look at our name through the internet,forums or Google will show we have a great after sales service and sort any issue in a prompt manner.

We hope this helps know some more about Whiteline and our Bushing range and any further enquiry can be made by email if you would like to talk direct to us support@whiteline.com.au or follow us on facebook www.facebook.com/whitelineflatout as we have 50 000 followers now with great feedback and product releases plus prize give aways and news.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

I had the AMS. I'd stick to something that is just a harder durometer over the OE rubber. I would not get a solid mount (AL or Delrin) unless it was a track only car.

I run Whiteline products and everything Jim says here is very true. Some of the best engineered pieces out there. Really love my rear sway bar on the Mustang.

blknblubkrdude

iTrader: (16)

The only bushing I have replaced on my EVO is the front motor mount. I had been considering going with the AMS press in bushing, but then I found a high quality mount/bushing for cheaper. It is made by Minerva Motorwerks. The fitment is perfect. I believe the bushing is 75A.
I have a decent lope with my cams, and can honestly say there has been no increase in noise/vibration.

The only reason I replaced it is because my whole drivetrain was chattering on clutch engagement- the OEM bushing was well gone allowing excessive engine movement.

Check for them on Ebay too, or go to their website. You will be happy with all the money you save, and have a product equal if not better to most of the products out there.

bhmax

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that's a good price on their website. Emailed for more info on the AGP bushing, but the Minerva sounds great. Thanks!

Nimpoc

iTrader: (17)

Not to brutally crosspost / abduct this thread, but it seems appropriate with the audience...

Some of us are having serious drivetrain lash issues and are looking to bushings as a possible solution. Maybe you guys could share some wisdom & experience having gone down the alternate bushing road?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-bouncing.html

bhmax

iTrader: (2)

Don't think I ever posted about my take on the Minerva lower mount. Seemed to help a bit with shifting and driveline slack, but my car is lower mileage so it wasn't a huge difference. I had too much vibration (for me anyway, it probably wouldn't bother most people) through the steering wheel. Decided to fill the stock mount with urethane and reinstall it. Noticed there is a gap between the bolt and the mount itself. Had a perfectly sized piece of tubing sitting around that I put over the bolt that took up that space. Much happier with less vibration, and noticed no change with regards to shifting or driveline slack compared to the Minerva.

Nimpoc

iTrader: (17)

bhmax - thanks for the reply.

I purchased a BLOX mount and had good luck with it eliminating a significant amount of drive lash and like others have commented, it did make shifting significantly better from 1-2. Like others, it too did add quite a bit of vibes to the cabin which on a higher mile car (95k) results in dash rattles and a generally cheaper car feel.

When I get a free moment I'll try the Window Weld trick. My mounts were moderately cracked circumferentially so it might not be as effective as yours. BLOX might be my answer up front.

Back on the drivetrain lash issue, I talked with ROBI and he listed front rear diff mounts followed by driveshaft support bushings as the next culprits of slack in the system. I'll be hitting those with the Window Weld too when I get my Weir kit in.

For reference:
http://tech.mirage-performance.com/enginemounts.html