Weird Vibration 40-60 mph
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Weird Vibration 40-60 mph
I was driving the other day and the car makes slight vibration when driving btw 40-70 mph and it doesn't matter whether I'm going straight or slightly turning left or right. It appears to be more concentrated in the front end of the car but the car just had new struts, new tires and 4WD alignment but the issue is still there.
I had a mechanic road-test the vehicle and he said it sounds like its from the driveshaft and said the wheel bearings are fine but had no clue as what was causing the vibration/noise.
Does anybody have any idea?
I had a mechanic road-test the vehicle and he said it sounds like its from the driveshaft and said the wheel bearings are fine but had no clue as what was causing the vibration/noise.
Does anybody have any idea?
#2
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need more details..... which side of the front end? right or left? could just be as stupid as needing to have your wheels balanced.... i have a vibration in my front end two, from the exhaust needing to be adjusted so its vibrating around its only at higher speed.
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Ok guys its a 2006 evo ix with 66k miles and its a slight vibration that resonates throughout the entire cabin but it concentrated throughout the front end. Also, when I partially brake from 40mph I notice a slight vibration in the steering wheel but it immediately goes away if additional braking force is applied.
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Ok guys its a 2006 evo ix with 66k miles and its a slight vibration that resonates throughout the entire cabin but it concentrated throughout the front end. Also, when I partially brake from 40mph I notice a slight vibration in the steering wheel but it immediately goes away if additional braking force is applied.
Warped rotors
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Whole cabin shake is more likely a radial 1st harmonic driven vibration. The wheel shake sounds like pad material build up on the rotors.
Harmonics - hit a resonance frequency and you can shake anything (car is not excluded from that).
Turn rotors first to correct pad material deposit (misnomer is "warping"...that's the feel they have, not what is going on).
ALSO -- check tie-rod ends. A bad outer tie rod will do the same.
Check tire/wheel assemblies for road force and static imbalance. I balance for static values at 0.15oz or under when working on sensitive vehicles. Make sure they turn "Smart Balance" OFF if on a new Hunter machine. That will leave up to 0.50 oz static imbalance (most cars are not sensitive to that). Don't worry about dynamic numbers. Couple (180* imbalance though the drive axis) is not nearly as important as static. Talking has to be 5x greater than static to cause a ride issue. Ex. 1oz static would have to have 5oz 180* apart couple...and the ride will be a shimmy at low speeds. Not a higher speed issue.
For road force, only Hunter has something close to what plants screen too. As an assembly, shoot for under 15 lbs Hunter Road Force. You may have to spin the tires on the wheels 180* (+90*) if needed. Its called matching or indexing.
Most shops do that poorly or incorrectly. They measure the lip on the in/out sides of the wheel. Those are just to hold weights. Not to a tolerance. To do that method correctly you have to measure the rim at the bead seating area (inside the wheel). 99% of the time I see this method done wrong.
The 180/90* method is called vector matching. For all intents; its black magic. Very very very few know how to do it. Which is sad. Super easy. Very effective.
Harmonics - hit a resonance frequency and you can shake anything (car is not excluded from that).
Turn rotors first to correct pad material deposit (misnomer is "warping"...that's the feel they have, not what is going on).
ALSO -- check tie-rod ends. A bad outer tie rod will do the same.
Check tire/wheel assemblies for road force and static imbalance. I balance for static values at 0.15oz or under when working on sensitive vehicles. Make sure they turn "Smart Balance" OFF if on a new Hunter machine. That will leave up to 0.50 oz static imbalance (most cars are not sensitive to that). Don't worry about dynamic numbers. Couple (180* imbalance though the drive axis) is not nearly as important as static. Talking has to be 5x greater than static to cause a ride issue. Ex. 1oz static would have to have 5oz 180* apart couple...and the ride will be a shimmy at low speeds. Not a higher speed issue.
For road force, only Hunter has something close to what plants screen too. As an assembly, shoot for under 15 lbs Hunter Road Force. You may have to spin the tires on the wheels 180* (+90*) if needed. Its called matching or indexing.
Most shops do that poorly or incorrectly. They measure the lip on the in/out sides of the wheel. Those are just to hold weights. Not to a tolerance. To do that method correctly you have to measure the rim at the bead seating area (inside the wheel). 99% of the time I see this method done wrong.
The 180/90* method is called vector matching. For all intents; its black magic. Very very very few know how to do it. Which is sad. Super easy. Very effective.
Last edited by Smike; Sep 13, 2012 at 05:40 AM.
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Whole cabin shake is more likely a radial 1st harmonic driven vibration. The wheel shake sounds like pad material build up on the rotors.
Harmonics - hit a resonance frequency and you can shake anything (car is not excluded from that).
Turn rotors first to correct pad material deposit (misnomer is "warping"...that's the feel they have, not what is going on).
ALSO -- check tie-rod ends. A bad outer tie rod will do the same.
Check tire/wheel assemblies for road force and static imbalance. I balance for static values at 0.15oz or under when working on sensitive vehicles. Make sure they turn "Smart Balance" OFF if on a new Hunter machine. That will leave up to 0.50 oz static imbalance (most cars are not sensitive to that). Don't worry about dynamic numbers. Couple (180* imbalance though the drive axis) is not nearly as important as static. Talking has to be 5x greater than static to cause a ride issue. Ex. 1oz static would have to have 5oz 180* apart couple...and the ride will be a shimmy at low speeds. Not a higher speed issue.
For road force, only Hunter has something close to what plants screen too. As an assembly, shoot for under 15 lbs Hunter Road Force. You may have to spin the tires on the wheels 180* (+90*) if needed. Its called matching or indexing.
Most shops do that poorly or incorrectly. They measure the lip on the in/out sides of the wheel. Those are just to hold weights. Not to a tolerance. To do that method correctly you have to measure the rim at the bead seating area (inside the wheel). 99% of the time I see this method done wrong.
The 180/90* method is called vector matching. For all intents; its black magic. Very very very few know how to do it. Which is sad. Super easy. Very effective.
Harmonics - hit a resonance frequency and you can shake anything (car is not excluded from that).
Turn rotors first to correct pad material deposit (misnomer is "warping"...that's the feel they have, not what is going on).
ALSO -- check tie-rod ends. A bad outer tie rod will do the same.
Check tire/wheel assemblies for road force and static imbalance. I balance for static values at 0.15oz or under when working on sensitive vehicles. Make sure they turn "Smart Balance" OFF if on a new Hunter machine. That will leave up to 0.50 oz static imbalance (most cars are not sensitive to that). Don't worry about dynamic numbers. Couple (180* imbalance though the drive axis) is not nearly as important as static. Talking has to be 5x greater than static to cause a ride issue. Ex. 1oz static would have to have 5oz 180* apart couple...and the ride will be a shimmy at low speeds. Not a higher speed issue.
For road force, only Hunter has something close to what plants screen too. As an assembly, shoot for under 15 lbs Hunter Road Force. You may have to spin the tires on the wheels 180* (+90*) if needed. Its called matching or indexing.
Most shops do that poorly or incorrectly. They measure the lip on the in/out sides of the wheel. Those are just to hold weights. Not to a tolerance. To do that method correctly you have to measure the rim at the bead seating area (inside the wheel). 99% of the time I see this method done wrong.
The 180/90* method is called vector matching. For all intents; its black magic. Very very very few know how to do it. Which is sad. Super easy. Very effective.
Smike thanks for the feedback; I will do as advised and get back to evom.
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