Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms
Jun 4, 2013, 05:16 AM
#1
Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms
Just wondering if anyone had experience with any of these products. I was looking at adjustable rear lower control arms and found a few company's. Soon I will be purchasing some NT03's and want to run 275 tires, so I may need these to get them to fit and my alignment where I want it.
Megan
http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=937&catid=96
Godspeed Project
http://www.godspeedproject.com/Godsp...er-control-arm
NRG/DME
https://www.getnrg.com/products/dme-...bishi/dme-m001
The Megan and nrg look to be identical, maybe they are manufactured by the same company?
Also was looking at rear toe arms
Megan
http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=938&catid=96
NRG/DME
https://www.getnrg.com/products/dme-...bishi/dme-m002
Again, I was just wondering if anyone had run any of these products and could give me some insite about build quality, reliability and if any are better then the other. Thanks
Megan
http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=937&catid=96
Godspeed Project
http://www.godspeedproject.com/Godsp...er-control-arm
NRG/DME
https://www.getnrg.com/products/dme-...bishi/dme-m001
The Megan and nrg look to be identical, maybe they are manufactured by the same company?
Also was looking at rear toe arms
Megan
http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...d=938&catid=96
NRG/DME
https://www.getnrg.com/products/dme-...bishi/dme-m002
Again, I was just wondering if anyone had run any of these products and could give me some insite about build quality, reliability and if any are better then the other. Thanks
Jun 4, 2013, 08:28 AM
#2
You do not need aftermarket lover control arms to assist in the fitment of wheels unless you are looking to go super aggressive with your rear camber i.e hella flush
Maybe you are confusing the control arms with the rear trailing arms such as the ones made my R/TErnie which allow for additional clearance?
Maybe you are confusing the control arms with the rear trailing arms such as the ones made my R/TErnie which allow for additional clearance?
Jun 4, 2013, 08:42 AM
#3
You do not need aftermarket lover control arms to assist in the fitment of wheels unless you are looking to go super aggressive with your rear camber i.e hella flush
Maybe you are confusing the control arms with the rear trailing arms such as the ones made my R/TErnie which allow for additional clearance?
Maybe you are confusing the control arms with the rear trailing arms such as the ones made my R/TErnie which allow for additional clearance?
Jun 4, 2013, 08:56 AM
#4
No problem! Also glad to hear your not trying to "Stance" out your evo
I cant comment on the full range of adjustment in the rear but my current alignment is set at -1.8 camber and 0 toe in the rear. I think you can get around -2 FYI. I dont think toe adjustment is limited until you get into the >-2 camber territory.
I cant comment on the full range of adjustment in the rear but my current alignment is set at -1.8 camber and 0 toe in the rear. I think you can get around -2 FYI. I dont think toe adjustment is limited until you get into the >-2 camber territory.
Jun 4, 2013, 09:00 AM
#5
Thanks again. I was hoping I didn't have to replace them. But just in case I did, that's why I was looking for reviews. My current wheel set up that I bought used wont allow me to run anything bigger then a 245 due to the offset. That's why I am looking to get some nt03's for a track stance, not a Volkswagen stance. Lol
Mar 26, 2014, 10:57 AM
#6
wanted to bump this thread and see if you decided to go with any of these lower control arms. i have a track evo and i need more rear camber based on the wear pattern on my slicks. wondering how much negative camber any of these can actually get me to. currently maxed out on the oem adjustments.
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Mar 26, 2014, 11:40 AM
#10
Yup sometimes its harder for the alignment tech to dial in the suspension in the rear. Sometimes the specs the customer wants are harder to achieve given their ride height and the stock eccentric bolt limits. The stock toe arms do not provide enough adjustability after the Evo is lowered out of their comfort zone.
The Megan Products are good but call to check the stock. They are almost never in stock last time I checked.
The god speed arms look awesome. However -3 camber is achievable with stock LCAs so it makes sense why they are so cheap.
The DME lower control arms are different. They are not made out of billet. They are welded together. The DME toe arms I have personally owned and I have no complaints using them. The DME arms were easy to obtain.
The Megan Products are good but call to check the stock. They are almost never in stock last time I checked.
The god speed arms look awesome. However -3 camber is achievable with stock LCAs so it makes sense why they are so cheap.
The DME lower control arms are different. They are not made out of billet. They are welded together. The DME toe arms I have personally owned and I have no complaints using them. The DME arms were easy to obtain.
Mar 26, 2014, 02:14 PM
#11
I am right around -3 rear, 0 toe. Front is -5 with 1/8" toe out. Yes stiffer springs all around would be nice, but adding a bit more rear camber would get me where I need for now. Currently running tein super racings just off the shelf springs. COBB rear sway but I have dialed it softer already. Getting inside rear wheel pickup on full stiff. I adjust rear bar, wing angle, and damping adjustment depending on what configuration the track is that day. In all cases I still need more rear camber.
The car isn't lowered that much really. My front LCA's are flat at resting height, which is a little too low as it gains some positive camber as the suspension travels, but the lower CG at this height is better. I wish we had better alternatives for ball joints, I have the whiteline ones but they only give like 1/4" gain. We need stuff like 240 drift guys have, 50mm extenders/etc would be great for getting the car low and maintain proper suspension geometry.
The godspeed arms are the only ones I've found to list the camber range and I agree the -3 doesn't do it, that's where I already am. Unless that's -3 without using the factory eccentric bolts as well?
The car isn't lowered that much really. My front LCA's are flat at resting height, which is a little too low as it gains some positive camber as the suspension travels, but the lower CG at this height is better. I wish we had better alternatives for ball joints, I have the whiteline ones but they only give like 1/4" gain. We need stuff like 240 drift guys have, 50mm extenders/etc would be great for getting the car low and maintain proper suspension geometry.
The godspeed arms are the only ones I've found to list the camber range and I agree the -3 doesn't do it, that's where I already am. Unless that's -3 without using the factory eccentric bolts as well?
Last edited by PCSkiBum_21; Mar 26, 2014 at 02:18 PM.
Mar 26, 2014, 02:28 PM
#12
Wowzers, you are running a lot of camber...as in a lot more than what I typically see. Quite frankly I am surprised you were able to get that much in the rear. Now it appears that you are at a level far ahead of me so take my advice with a grain of salt but I wonder if camber isnt the issue here?
If you don't mind me asking what are your spring rates? You mentioned a Cobb RSB, do you have a larger FSB by chance?
Is the inside wheel lifting on corner entry? If you are on the stock FSB have you tried going back to the stock RSB?
If you don't mind me asking what are your spring rates? You mentioned a Cobb RSB, do you have a larger FSB by chance?
Is the inside wheel lifting on corner entry? If you are on the stock FSB have you tried going back to the stock RSB?
Mar 26, 2014, 03:56 PM
#13
I am right around -3 rear, 0 toe. Front is -5 with 1/8" toe out. Yes stiffer springs all around would be nice, but adding a bit more rear camber would get me where I need for now. Currently running tein super racings just off the shelf springs. COBB rear sway but I have dialed it softer already. Getting inside rear wheel pickup on full stiff. I adjust rear bar, wing angle, and damping adjustment depending on what configuration the track is that day. In all cases I still need more rear camber.
The car isn't lowered that much really. My front LCA's are flat at resting height, which is a little too low as it gains some positive camber as the suspension travels, but the lower CG at this height is better. I wish we had better alternatives for ball joints, I have the whiteline ones but they only give like 1/4" gain. We need stuff like 240 drift guys have, 50mm extenders/etc would be great for getting the car low and maintain proper suspension geometry.
The godspeed arms are the only ones I've found to list the camber range and I agree the -3 doesn't do it, that's where I already am. Unless that's -3 without using the factory eccentric bolts as well?
The car isn't lowered that much really. My front LCA's are flat at resting height, which is a little too low as it gains some positive camber as the suspension travels, but the lower CG at this height is better. I wish we had better alternatives for ball joints, I have the whiteline ones but they only give like 1/4" gain. We need stuff like 240 drift guys have, 50mm extenders/etc would be great for getting the car low and maintain proper suspension geometry.
The godspeed arms are the only ones I've found to list the camber range and I agree the -3 doesn't do it, that's where I already am. Unless that's -3 without using the factory eccentric bolts as well?
Many people on these forums have pointed out that the Whiteline RCK is ineffective. I think someone was working on making a better kit. I will try to search around to find it.
From my personal experience I had the AFI adjustable lower control arms. These were great. They had a large adjustment range. -5 in the rear was easily achievable. Coupled with the DME rear toe arms my Evo was super easy to get to any spec I wanted.
Now I am considering the RaceFab tubular kit.
Mar 26, 2014, 04:45 PM
#14
12k front 10k rear, just the off the shelf setup. front sway bar has just had forward mounting holes drilled to have a stiffer adjustable option. that has been working nicely. i don't have any more wheel lift so i am happy with where my sway bars are sorted.
caster i'm not sure on the current figure, but it's not super aggressive. i have more adjustment on the top hat, but i want to also add the perrin offset bushings. it's better for overall geometry to make the adjustments at the bottom if you can. i know this would help me be able to run less static negative camber in front. i'm constantly working through development on the whole car and kind of taking one thing at a time.
thanks for the info on those arms, i'll look into them. -5 rear would be more than enough for sure. how long have/did you have them and any other issues?
caster i'm not sure on the current figure, but it's not super aggressive. i have more adjustment on the top hat, but i want to also add the perrin offset bushings. it's better for overall geometry to make the adjustments at the bottom if you can. i know this would help me be able to run less static negative camber in front. i'm constantly working through development on the whole car and kind of taking one thing at a time.
thanks for the info on those arms, i'll look into them. -5 rear would be more than enough for sure. how long have/did you have them and any other issues?
Last edited by PCSkiBum_21; Mar 26, 2014 at 04:51 PM.
Mar 26, 2014, 05:19 PM
#15
I would search around on here as there are a lot of great suspension threads that have documented things like optimum ride height, rake, alignments, spring rates etc.
A lot of folks will tell you that your spring rates are backward. Aside from uneven tire wear how does the car feel? Have you considered flipping the springs front to rear? Alternatively you could pick up a set of stiffer springs for the rear something like 14k to pair with the 12k in the front.
Like I said before, you are running way more camber already than is typically common on our cars. In my case my alignment is Camber -3.3F -1.7R Caster 6.1 and 0 toe all around.
I guess the main difference here is that I auto-x so I prefer a loose car whereas it seems that you do road course stuff so maybe you prefer your car to push at the limit?
As I mentioned before I think before you go buckwild purchasing different control arms toe arms etc. try throwing in a set of stiffer springs.
A lot of folks will tell you that your spring rates are backward. Aside from uneven tire wear how does the car feel? Have you considered flipping the springs front to rear? Alternatively you could pick up a set of stiffer springs for the rear something like 14k to pair with the 12k in the front.
Like I said before, you are running way more camber already than is typically common on our cars. In my case my alignment is Camber -3.3F -1.7R Caster 6.1 and 0 toe all around.
I guess the main difference here is that I auto-x so I prefer a loose car whereas it seems that you do road course stuff so maybe you prefer your car to push at the limit?
As I mentioned before I think before you go buckwild purchasing different control arms toe arms etc. try throwing in a set of stiffer springs.