05ah8james

iTrader: (23)

I recently removed abs and installed all oem evo 8 rs parts with prop valves, lines, master, etc. I've bled the brakes, but I cannot get the pedal to stiffen up. Its still very squishy, and the brakes don't work at all. Is there a certain order I should be bleeding these in? Any input appreciated!

-James

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

The bleeding order is:

1. Passenger's side rear outside nipple
2. Passenger's side rear inside nipple
3. Driver's side front outside nipple
4. Driver's side front inside nipple
5. Driver's side rear outside nipple
6. Driver's side rear inside nipple
7. Passenger's side front outside nipple
8. Passenger's side front inside nipple

Take a look here: http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html

05ah8james

iTrader: (23)

Clear and right to the point. greatly appreciated!

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

No problem bud glad I could help

IMO it sounds like you still have some air in the system hence the squishy feel. Are you using the 2 person method, leveraging a machine such as a motive power bleeder or vacuum pump?

MechTech

Exactly the way to do it. I just did all my brakes on saturday. Took it out twice and will be rebleeding for the third time today to make sure all air is out (I'm using the motive bleeder). Pumping will take much longer.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

I purchased a motive power bleeder the other day to make bleeding brakes a simple one person task. Can you offer any advice as to how you used it?

After talking with a couple of people it seems that people prefer to use it solely to pressurize the system and dont actually fill the unit with fluid but rather top it off at the BMC and continue to check. Apparently this reduces the chances of getting air in the system. Have you found this to be the case or did using the device as its intended work for you?

PureDrivePerformance

I'm interested in this too bleeder too. I found this video, but I think he has like 9 videos on how to use it. I just watched the first two to get the idea.

I think my wife will be happy not to have to pump the pedal and hold, etc anymore.

http://www.youtube.com/user/irontodd2/videos

bassnuker

iTrader: (14)

Dude, even with an auto bleeder you want someone there to help...not only do you have to bleed in sequence, but you have to constantly ensure the reservoir is filled. If you let it run dry you suck more air into the system and have to do the whole thing over again. I went through the sequence at least 8 times until I got it to where I was happy. I have never used an auto bleeder though, it will prob be easier.

I went and bought a $2 break bleeder kit from autozone...just a tube and a small bottle. Either way, i'm pretty sure I did the sequence about 10 times because I wanted to ensure my breaks were right. Fill, pump the breaks, bleed and repeat. It's a pain in the *** but breaks are important and spongy breaks are a no-go.

PureDrivePerformance

I hear what you're saying, but I don't understand why you have to have someone there if you're using the Motive Power Bleeder. I understand that you need the reservoir filled. I bled and had to make sure it was filled in the 2 man method.

Here's a better vid:

bassnuker

iTrader: (14)

I suppose you don't HAVE to have someone else there, it's just easier man. Remember, you have to bleed 8 bleeders hahaha Royal Pain in the ***. Again, I have never used that power bleeder before...but if the pedal is still squishy, you might have to take it back old school and have someone hop in the car and start pumping the brakes manually. My wife did the pumping for me hahaha She said her calves were getting tired....That is some damn good brake bleeding right there!

PureDrivePerformance

gotcha! My wife was saying the same thing! I think I'll keep having her pump the brakes.

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

I use a Motive and it only took one time of not watching the fluid in the tank to force air into the system.



I only use it to pressurize the system now and it works fine for me. It's a small hassle to let off the pressure and then remove the adapter from the reservoir vs. not paying attention to the tank.

If you haven't done the clutch, it's really easy but the chances of forcing air into that part of the system is quite easy as well

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

love my motive bleeder. i pour a whole can of fluid in the tank and let it run...never had an issue...except when my dad used it on his car and exploed the hose and blew fluid everywhere!

MechTech

I did the same and just used it to pressurize the master. I didn't want to waste fluid by filling the bleeder then not use it all or risk any dirt/air from the bleeder getting into the brake system. Either way should work its more preference, I've heard using it both ways.

It's very simple to use. I bled my clutch and brakes. I made sure to teflon tape the fitting for the adapter (cap piece) before I started to ensure no leakage as per a few threads I read. I used some clear tubing I had laying around along with an empty gear oil quart container to catch it.

Read the bleeder instructions on the canister so you understand what you are doing.

Run Down:
1.) Filled the master up into the bottom of the neck

2.) Put the bleeder on (takes a little bit of effort because its a tight fit). Be sure you line up the tab openings on the master with the tabs on the cap. I had to get the cap started on one side and work around it to get it all the way on or if I lined the tabs up perfectly i could push straight down and it would slide in.

3.) Pump bleeder up to 10psi, open bleeder 1/4-1/2 turn, watch master and close bleeder when it hits the half ridge on the master or no more bubbles come out of the caliper.

4.) Crack pump on bleeder canister to release pressure down to 0. DON'T FORGET THIS STEP! YOU MUST DO IT EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE BLEEDER OFF THE MASTER. You'll end up with a mess if you don't.

5.) Refill master and repeat for all bleeder screws.

6.) Refill and put normal cap on

7.) Pump brakes up slowly. Start car and pump some more applying moderate pressure to pedal.

8.) Turn car off and repeat bleeding procedure but I only cracked the bleeders open/close a few times.

9.) Go bed the brakes and repeat bleed/bed process untill satisfied with pedal.

Be sure to have a handfull of rags and a few cans of brake cleaner handy. A few times when removing the tube from the bleeder it would burp fluid on the caliper. best way to limit this is to wrap around the tube/bleeder screw with a rag when you pop it off.

PM me if you have any questions or need more help.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

^Thanks for breaking down your process step by step

Mine should be at my house tomorrow and I will be doing a full fluid flush. I'm still getting mixed opinions as to whether I should fill it up or simply use it to pressurize the system. I think for flushing the fluid it makes sense so fill up the container so I dont have to constantly top off the reservoir.

OTOH when I will just be bleeding I think using it to pressurize the system may make more sense.

Any insight on this? Also can you explain the significance of steps 7-9 please?

Thanks for your help.