Talon

iTrader: (3)

A few weeks ago I was driving and my brake pedal went from normal to down to the floor in 10 stops. I have no idea why. Stopped the car and Reservoir was empty. Filled it up (was close to a WalMart) and limped the car home. I had pressure, but it would require 75% pedal travel to get decent brake contact.

Fast forward. Since then I've replaced the crush washers on the front lines (SS lines) with new, copper ones to protect against corrosion. I've bleed the whole system twice with a buddy on two separate occations. Followed this both times (http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html) and have bleed brakes many times before.

I am still not getting pressure in my brake pedal. Reservoir is full and when I bleed the calipers, all that comes out is pure liquid. It's no better than it was before the bleedings. Pads have ~.375" of meat left. Driven it around the block and still need 75% pedal movement to get decent bite. If I pump the pedal while the car is off, it firms up right away. That gave me false hopes.

I feel like there has to be air in there somewhere. Master cylinder need bleed? Is there a good how-to on this? Also it's worth noting that the driver's side front, inside bleeder valve stripped so I wasn't able to bleed that one at all. But the pedal is no better than it was before so I don't think that's the main culprit.

Suggestions

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

^^^This is the part I would be concerned about. Where did the fluid go?

Talon

iTrader: (3)

I am also concerned about that. I think one of the washers that sits between the brake line bolt and spherical fitting corroded, because as my buddy and I were bleeding the brakes we noticed fluid spraying out of that location. However, we didn’t notice that until we had done three of the calipers already. So maybe it was a slow leak that turned into a big one… I dunno. That’s why I replaced them with new, copper washers and it stopped the spraying.

Boostin_hard

iTrader: (12)

so is it fixed then? after the washer replacement??

TSiAWD666

iTrader: (5)

If you bled the reservoir dry then you may need to bleed the master cylinder which requires a different procedure.

Aby@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (161)

first things first......did you find your initial brake fluid leak? fix that, otherwise you'll continue to have issues.

if your evo has abs, there is a lot of air in the abs manifold.

buy lots of brake fluid....buy yourself a motive brake bleeder & crack each line going into the abs manifold, you will see / find air.

GL

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

I would look for the leak. That fluid went somewhere. Look at your brake lines for any leaks. You can actually use your power bleeder to inspect for leaks. Pressure up the system and inspect your brake lines.

Talon

iTrader: (3)

The leak is gone, but the pedal is still mushy. There is definitely air in the system still.

That's what I am thinking next. Bought a MC bleeder kit today.

Where is the ABS manifold?

Thanks,

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Engine bay firewall offset to the curbside

Talon

iTrader: (3)

Is that what the flexible rubber line goes to?

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Hoping you found it but if not look just past the dip stick in this pic & youll see the ABS valve & manifold

Talon

iTrader: (3)

Well, got the problem fixed. Ended up bleeding the system two more times, which made for five total. I guess there was a bubble somewhere that was being extra stubborn. Really didn’t want to do the MC unless I really had to so decided just to try a couple more bleedings. Pedal felt really good after two more cycles so I took it out to test it (just around my block). Still felt really good and was even able to get the ABS to kick so I think all is good. Drove it to work today.

Thanks for all your suggestions.