E-brake Adjustable?
#1
E-brake Adjustable?
Seems like my e-brake has gotten pretty weak over the years. If I'm on any type of slanted surface, it's not 'grabby' enough to keep my car from rolling. Anyone know if the e-brake can be adjusted?
2003 Evolution VIII w/ 154,000 miles
2003 Evolution VIII w/ 154,000 miles
#3
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (12)
Yup,
The E-brake handle has a nut on the bottom part of it that can be tighten to increase friction force on the rear drums. It's easiest to get to by unscrewing two philips head screws inside your center compartment and poping that off.
If it's already full tight, then you have to tighten the brakes by removing the rear rotors and adjusting a spring inside the drum. Odds are you don't have to do this.
Cable stretch is unavoidable and will happen over time.
-pal215
The E-brake handle has a nut on the bottom part of it that can be tighten to increase friction force on the rear drums. It's easiest to get to by unscrewing two philips head screws inside your center compartment and poping that off.
If it's already full tight, then you have to tighten the brakes by removing the rear rotors and adjusting a spring inside the drum. Odds are you don't have to do this.
Cable stretch is unavoidable and will happen over time.
-pal215
#4
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Yup,
The E-brake handle has a nut on the bottom part of it that can be tighten to increase friction force on the rear drums. It's easiest to get to by unscrewing two philips head screws inside your center compartment and poping that off.
If it's already full tight, then you have to tighten the brakes by removing the rear rotors and adjusting a spring inside the drum. Odds are you don't have to do this.
Cable stretch is unavoidable and will happen over time.
-pal215
The E-brake handle has a nut on the bottom part of it that can be tighten to increase friction force on the rear drums. It's easiest to get to by unscrewing two philips head screws inside your center compartment and poping that off.
If it's already full tight, then you have to tighten the brakes by removing the rear rotors and adjusting a spring inside the drum. Odds are you don't have to do this.
Cable stretch is unavoidable and will happen over time.
-pal215
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desmvp (Apr 23, 2016)
#6
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
Once you are past adjustment of the shoes from the rotor side and past adjustment from the lever side in the center console, you need to replace the cables typically.
First adjustment is lever side (minor)
Second adjustment is rotor side (major)
Careful on the major adjustment because it can make the brake shoes drag.
FYI
First adjustment is lever side (minor)
Second adjustment is rotor side (major)
Careful on the major adjustment because it can make the brake shoes drag.
FYI
#7
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
The shoe adjustment should really only be a one time thing everytime you replace the rotor, or if the shoes get replaced. The shoes shouldn't wear because they just hold the car in place. Only adjustment you should ever really need to do IF the shoes are correctly adjusted is at the ebrake handle.
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#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
It's the ebrake, it really doesn't matter. You adjust until they drag ever so slightly. The adjustment at the shoes is the shoe adjustment. The adjustment at the handle is the cable adjustment. One does not replace the other. They both serve an independent purpose.
#10
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
If you want to test it out, put the parking brake on, pull a rear tire off and remove the caliper. Try and remove the rotor. You probably wont be able to as the friction from the parking brake is holding the rotor still from the inside. How do I know this? I've done it and was scratching my head why I couldn't pull it off!
#11
Evolved Member
I think Mitsubishi bought shoes for the drum brakes from Pep Boys. Some emergency brake, it can barely hold my car in place on my nearly flat driveway. My 1992 DSM had an emergency brake that locked the wheels like they were welded. Progress.
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