Shahul X

iTrader: (3)

are you supposed to do a few runs to bead in these new brake pads?

I heared do 70mph then brake hard to 30, then 90-10, then 70-25.... to bead them properly....allowing about 3-4 minutes between at hwy speeds to cool down a bit....

any info?

-Shahul

Bogie

iTrader: (11)

I'm sorry for asking, but, didn't the pads come with instrutions?

naucrx

iTrader: (19)

I wouldn't do any hard braking until you break in the pads properly. If I recall, the instructions say to do some moderate braking from 50mph, allowing 1/4 mile to cool down between each time. And NO "high speed" stops. If you slam on the brakes before they are broken in they will probably squeal like all hell.

Like Bogie said, they should've come with instructions on how to properly break them in.

Shahul X

iTrader: (3)

i dont think they did.... i have 2 boxes, I only opened the one...I'll check it out.... but your saying 50mph moderate braking.....

-shahul

nothere

iTrader: (23)

different pads, but the bed- in was many moderate braking events. I may have put them to close together, as when I did finally stop the brakes were HOT.

also, don't brake to a stop, slow downs on the hiway, like 70-50 are better.

naucrx

iTrader: (19)

Yeah, no hard braking. I did about ten to fifteen 50mph-20mph moderate/low pedal pressure stops when I first put the new pads on (Edit: Allowing 1/4 mile cool-off between each stop). Then after I did that I went easy on them for 400 miles or so before I got on the brakes very hard.

Just go easy on them for a few hundred miles to bed them in before any hard braking and you should be fine. Follow what I said above and you should be good.

Shahul X

iTrader: (3)

thanks Doug....

-shahul

ogvw

iTrader: (4)

BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE

To ensure maximum performance, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.



The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:

Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.

Shahul X

iTrader: (3)

interesting.....where did you get that from?

ogvw

iTrader: (4)

I work for the AP Racing importer for the US... all we do is racing brakes and brake pads - so we need to give this info to many professional teams/manufacturers That is a really good bedding proceedure and bedding the pads that way will increase the pad life and effectiveness. I would add that a few high speed applications after that proceedure, gradually increasing pedal pressure (but not coming to a complete stop, from 90mph to 25mph) is a good finish to the instructions above.

Bogie

iTrader: (11)

I used Hawk pads previously, the instructions for Hawk pads specifically stated NOT TO DRAG the brakes. I do not know if this is the case with the Ferodo; I have yet to install, but will install this week.

The instructions that came with my Ferodo DS2500 state: "Perform 25 to 30 trial brake applications, each of approximately 4 seconds, using 50% of normal race pedal pressure. To shorten the procedure applications can be made along the straights as well as at bends."

Important: " to optimize the performance and the life of both brake pads and discs, during the bedding-in period heat in the braking system should be built up progessively."

FWIW, for me, at the track, "normal race pedal pressure" is 10/10ths at 80 + mph...

I hope this helps.

Bogie

iTrader: (11)

Instructions for Hawk HP Plus:
1) After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approx 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2) Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40-45 mph.
3) DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4) Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5) After step 4 your new brake pads are ready to use.

Shahul X

iTrader: (3)

wow, so many people so many differant opinions....

-shahul

Bogie

iTrader: (11)

I know, it's so friggin' confusing. It's a bit similiar to finding what you think is a good mechanic, but, subsequently meeting another good mechanic who disses your previous good mechanic, and so on and so on...

I am installing fronts and rears sometime this week. What I will probably do is: drive near my house and attain the fastest speed I can (30-50 mph), then, brake at moderate pressure for 4 seconds, release pedal, continue driving for 10-15 seconds whilst attaining some speed then repeat and repeat and repeat...shampoo, rinse, repeat...until I do so 25-30 times

ogvw

iTrader: (4)

It can be a little confusing..... generally dragging the brakes is a bad thing - my instructions say to drag for a short length just to get them to operating temperature. All manufacturers agree that you do not want to overheat the pads right away.