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Evo X Electrical / Audio / Security Discuss electrical and audio system upgrades or alarm configurations.

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Old Oct 28, 2010, 09:43 AM   #16
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Wait how many w3s are you running? If you are running more than 1, i don't recommend 1 amp. I also don't personally recommend running more than 1 sub since our car is heavy as it is.

You don't need to run max rms to all your speakers to make them sound good. Clarity isn't usually about that. You need to match your gains to the output of the deck. A lot of people think gain controls are volume knobs / power knobs, they are NOT. They are used to match the pre-amps of your deck. So you're going to put out what you're going to put out. If you go over, you're going to start clipping at higher volume.

I'm telling you, grab those CDT comps, you won't regret it and last years models are cheap. That will leave budget for other areas such as rears. The factory rears are not going to be able to keep up with the others, so it will be like you don't even have them.
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Old Oct 28, 2010, 10:53 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by morfhious3 View Post
thanks njevoxpb.im just going with hertz mlk 165 comp for the front and leave stock the back.running the jl hd 600/5 or the 900/5 for the speakers and the 10' jl w3.i want to use my stock sub box?any suggestions?what do you think of the morel dotech ovation 6 comp speakers?
If you don't mind my asking, why a W3 when there are better options for this project? FWIW, I pointed to one in post #2. There are others, as well. This isn't to say that a W3 is a bad woofer. There's a reason why a variety of drivers are available with varying mechanical/acoustical characteristics. Some are right for a given set of constraints, while others are better suited for an alternate install.

Too, if you're looking at Hertz, consider HSK 165 XL. They're more sensitive (meaning, they'll play louder with the same power while producing less distortion) than the MLKs and more forgiving (resolution-wise, less prone to sibilance).

Last edited by FJF; Oct 28, 2010 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Oct 28, 2010, 12:09 PM   #18
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just one sub.what model are those cdt's comps and rear were you using?as for the w3,coz i want to use the factory box.if there's any other better sub than the w3 i'll consider as long it will fit the stock box.
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Old Oct 28, 2010, 12:31 PM   #19
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if there's any other better sub than the w3 i'll consider as long it will fit the stock box.
<sigh> I already referred you to such an animal umpteen posts ago. Good luck with the system.
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Old Oct 28, 2010, 01:33 PM   #20
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If it were me, I'd get these components:

http://www.woofersetc.com/p4630/EF61...25-Tweeter.htm

In my VIII I was running similar setup with the speakers in the back deck and a set of these in the front doors (cause of depth issues, which won't be a problem in the X)
http://www.woofersetc.com/p5830/CLE6...e-Speakers.htm

Those Neodymiums kicked the snot out of a lot of speakers on the market today.

I'm not sure on the depth of the w3 in the factory box, but the w3 will be perfect for that amp
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Old Oct 28, 2010, 02:19 PM   #21
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thanks guys.change my mind about the hertz.i'll go with cdt's.
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Old Nov 19, 2010, 10:07 AM   #22
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I have personnally only ever run the following setup up (Which is being installed in my EVO while I am going to FL for the rest of November now)

JL Audio ZR 650-CSi Component Front and Rear
JL Audio 300/4 Amp
JL Audio 500/1 Amp
JL Audio 10w7 (down grade from a 12w7) - This wont be installed until I get the Wicked CAS 10w7 box in
Alpine IVA - w505
JDM Dash Kit

Hands down the best system configuration I have ever installed/heard out there. I have run the high end Focal's in a previous car and they are an absolute crap *** component speaker. Will never ever put them back in any vehicle that I have. I also actually like the Infinity 6.1 perfects.

I used to be a huge Orion fan in the early 90's and then switched to the Kicker model but like I said the JL Audio stuff is where it is at in my opinion.
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Old Nov 19, 2010, 06:09 PM   #23
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 01:05 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Built2Fast View Post
I have personnally only ever run the following setup up (Which is being installed in my EVO while I am going to FL for the rest of November now)

JL Audio ZR 650-CSi Component Front and Rear
JL Audio 300/4 Amp
JL Audio 500/1 Amp
JL Audio 10w7 (down grade from a 12w7) - This wont be installed until I get the Wicked CAS 10w7 box in
Alpine IVA - w505
JDM Dash Kit

Hands down the best system configuration I have ever installed/heard out there. I have run the high end Focal's in a previous car and they are an absolute crap *** component speaker. Will never ever put them back in any vehicle that I have. I also actually like the Infinity 6.1 perfects.

I used to be a huge Orion fan in the early 90's and then switched to the Kicker model but like I said the JL Audio stuff is where it is at in my opinion.
IM ON TIGHT BUDGET THATS WHY IN THE FIRST PAGE I HAVE $ AMOUNT HOW TO SPEND ON EACH PARTS.THE CAS BOX IS WAY EXPENSIVE JUST FOR THE BOX.AND SOMEONE TOLD ME IN THE FORUM THAT ITS WAY BIG FOR THE W7 PER CU.FT OF SPACE.NOT REMEMBER WHO.AND BASICALLY YOU ADD MORE WEIGHT ON THE CAR.
1 EXTRA AMP---7-10LBS
CAS BOX--------5-10 LBS(NOT SURE)
10" W7 ---------10-15LBS(GUESSTIMATE)
NOW FOR THE SPEAKERS JL ZR SOUND REALLY GOOD BUT FOR THAT PRICE RANGE
I HAVE TO GO WITH DYNAUDIO 242 or the hertz mlk.......those are sweet.but those are out my price range.....so i decided to follow the suggestiuons of migs for the comp speakers which are the cdt's and fjf subwoofer advice which are imq...sweet lord those combo i have in my car right now sound clear and crisp and a little thumbp.thanks you guys for the advice.that cost me under $1500.
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 04:14 AM   #25
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A 10" W7 is ~30lbs. In an automotive environment, we first have to consider the application. The W7 is a low-sensitivity, high-excursion driver that excels on the low end of the spectrum - ie. below ~50Hz. In a car like the MR-T (stock) with its extra sound deadening and no mods, there's a chance such frequencies could be felt. In a GSR with an exhaust, not so much. The car's own low frequency emissions either turn low bass into mud, or cancel it out altogether. To add insult to injury, this driver needs a lot of current thrown into it, so one is tapping his electrical system for virtually zero gain.

Last edited by FJF; Nov 20, 2010 at 09:13 AM.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 10:11 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by FJF View Post
A 10" W7 is ~30lbs. In an automotive environment, we first have to consider the application. The W7 is a low-sensitivity, high-excursion driver that excels on the low end of the spectrum - ie. below ~50Hz. In a car like the MR-T (stock) with its extra sound deadening and no mods, there's a chance such
frequencies could be felt. In a GSR with an exhaust, not so much. The car's own low frequency emissions either turn low bass into mud, or cancel it out altogether. To add insult to injury, this driver needs a lot of current thrown into it, so one is tapping his electrical system for virtually zero gain.
Guess I'm just not one to really care about costs vs sounds or worry about weight. If your really worried about weight you'd strip all the sound deading out, take out all the speakers, convert trunk to Carbon Fiber along with everything else CF too. But, that gets a bit costly as well.

I like power mods and I like my sound system set up. #1. I am not entering a Time Attack challenge #2. I'm not entering an SCCA contest either. I know what sounds right to me so it's what I'm sticking with. To each their own though
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 11:58 PM   #27
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Guess I'm just not one to really care about costs vs sounds or worry about weight. If your really worried about weight you'd strip all the sound deading out, take out all the speakers, convert trunk to Carbon Fiber along with everything else CF too. But, that gets a bit costly as well.

I like power mods and I like my sound system set up. #1. I am not entering a Time Attack challenge #2. I'm not entering an SCCA contest either. I know what sounds right to me so it's what I'm sticking with. To each their own though
I think you may have misunderstood my comment. I wasn't putting down your system. I simply explained the constraints at hand. They are what they are and there isn't much that can be done to change them. As such, it's best to work with the car, if sound quality is a priority.

Last edited by FJF; Nov 22, 2010 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2010, 03:05 AM   #28
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FJF .... I'm just installing some new Hertz speakers, Audison Amp and a Pioneer 5250DVD head unit...... but not a sub, for the moment.

The Sub is still on the shopping list, but I'm not sure how effective it will be. Given your comments it looks like (I have a HKS high power exhaust) installing a sub might be pointless.

Is this what you are trying to tell us ...... any advice is well received!

Michael
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Old Nov 22, 2010, 01:10 PM   #29
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FJF .... I'm just installing some new Hertz speakers, Audison Amp and a Pioneer 5250DVD head unit...... but not a sub, for the moment.

The Sub is still on the shopping list, but I'm not sure how effective it will be. Given your comments it looks like (I have a HKS high power exhaust) installing a sub might be pointless.

Is this what you are trying to tell us ...... any advice is well received!

Michael
Hi, Michael. Let me preface this by saying that my comments are based on the assumption that one is listening to music while the car is not standing still.

Essentially we have two options: work with the Evo or try to overpower it. Overpowering the car isn't very hard - an upgraded electrical system and a big enough amplifier is all it takes. There's a large number of high-excision drivers that would fit the bill. Besides the weight, why not do that? Because, one is literally tearing the car apart with low-frequency energy.

The second option is to work with the car. [To save us a little time, I'll omit the "whys."] This is where the install, itself, is a crucial variable. Say one wants to put a sub into the stock box located in the trunk. The car is a stock-ish Evo with an intake, exhaust, and a tune. Here, the biggest barrier to success is being able to hear/feel the sub in the cabin without generating a whole lot of distortion. As such, we need a very sensitive driver that doesn't want to focus on low bass (ie. below 40Hz), as a result sounding punchy and exciting, as well as a tuning protocol that allows us to gear the sound to the car's acoustics. It's not as hard as it sounds.

So, to answer your question, it depends. Yes, it's very much worth having a sub, if one goes to some lengths to choose the right config, install it intelligently, and tune it for the environment. White it's not rocket science, it's not necessarily intuitive, as the sub's role is less traditional in this car. In my IX, I went through a number of trunk-mounted driver/enclosure combination, as well as tuning protocols, before settling on a 8" (flat) Earthquake driver in a .2ft^3 box under a front seat. The box is tiny, weighs ~6lbs, but it does about as much to augment the speakers as much larger entities. This doesn't happen, because it can transcendent basic physics; it's because psychoacoustically the brain is able to fill in the rest, given the generated aural queues.
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Old Nov 23, 2010, 05:01 AM   #30
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guys, what do you think of the morel tempo 6 against jl c2 for coax for the rear?150 price range for those speakers...or any suggestion on rear speakers on the price range given
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Old Nov 23, 2010, 05:01 AM
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