Compatibility Check On Aftermarket Audio System
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Compatibility Check On Aftermarket Audio System
Have a 2013 GSR without the RF system. Did my fair share of reading between here, crutchfield, and random other forums. Based off of everything I read, I'm confident this system listed below is compatible, and hopefully provides noticeably improved sound quality for moderate volumes and the rare occasion of short term (5-15min) high volume listening.
What I hope to accomplish with this setup:
I'm not looking to blow my trunk/doors off my car with uber bass or anything to that effect. Ideally, I want a noticeably improved sound quality over the stock system, with a little added functionality, convenience and retain wheel button functionality with a bluetooth touch screen head unit.
Feedback I'm hoping for:
Most I've done with car audio is replace a head unit, so I'm fairly novice at this - In your opinion, for the $1200 i'm looking to spend - are my expectations reasonable? Is my load out compatible? For example, am i likely to blow speakers/sub at a moderate - high volume? Am I likely to get horrible sound due to insufficient/abundant power? Please add any other feedback you'd like to add.
So here's the list:
Kenwood DDX371 Double Din 6.1" DVD Receiver
Scosche dash kit
Rockford Fosgate R1S410 10" 300W Car Subwoofer
10" Magicbox subbox
INFINITY REF6032CF 6.5" 180W Car 2 Way Audio Speakers
Rockford Fosgate Prime 6.5" 160W Car Audio 2-Way Component Speakers R165-S
Kicker 11 DX600.5 5-Channel Car Amplifier
Metra Axxess ASWC-1 OEM Steering Wheel Control Universal Interface Module ASWC
Components + tweeters in front, 2-ways in the rear doors, sub in trunk, and the amp where ever i can find a convenient spot for it...
Sorry for the long post, and ty in advance for your feedback/recommendations!
What I hope to accomplish with this setup:
I'm not looking to blow my trunk/doors off my car with uber bass or anything to that effect. Ideally, I want a noticeably improved sound quality over the stock system, with a little added functionality, convenience and retain wheel button functionality with a bluetooth touch screen head unit.
Feedback I'm hoping for:
Most I've done with car audio is replace a head unit, so I'm fairly novice at this - In your opinion, for the $1200 i'm looking to spend - are my expectations reasonable? Is my load out compatible? For example, am i likely to blow speakers/sub at a moderate - high volume? Am I likely to get horrible sound due to insufficient/abundant power? Please add any other feedback you'd like to add.
So here's the list:
Kenwood DDX371 Double Din 6.1" DVD Receiver
Scosche dash kit
Rockford Fosgate R1S410 10" 300W Car Subwoofer
10" Magicbox subbox
INFINITY REF6032CF 6.5" 180W Car 2 Way Audio Speakers
Rockford Fosgate Prime 6.5" 160W Car Audio 2-Way Component Speakers R165-S
Kicker 11 DX600.5 5-Channel Car Amplifier
Metra Axxess ASWC-1 OEM Steering Wheel Control Universal Interface Module ASWC
Components + tweeters in front, 2-ways in the rear doors, sub in trunk, and the amp where ever i can find a convenient spot for it...
Sorry for the long post, and ty in advance for your feedback/recommendations!
Last edited by Durn; Sep 16, 2014 at 08:54 PM. Reason: poor math
#2
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My $.02:
Use 6.5 subs and not two ways for the rear doors (to improve sound stage)
Use the PAC SWI to retain steering wheel controls - there are complaints about the Metra.
Are tweeters one inch or OEM-sized 1/2 inch? You can fit 1" with minor mods
(there are parking brake bypasses for the head unit )
Do not use the scoshe dash kit - many/many complaints about fitment. Use the AIG or the OEM NAV Kit.
Other than that - I think the system is reasonable for what you are looking for.
Use 6.5 subs and not two ways for the rear doors (to improve sound stage)
Use the PAC SWI to retain steering wheel controls - there are complaints about the Metra.
Are tweeters one inch or OEM-sized 1/2 inch? You can fit 1" with minor mods
(there are parking brake bypasses for the head unit )
Do not use the scoshe dash kit - many/many complaints about fitment. Use the AIG or the OEM NAV Kit.
Other than that - I think the system is reasonable for what you are looking for.
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Thank you so much veronica - I really appreciate the heads up on the dash kit and the wheel controls!
However, i think im going to puss out and take it to the audio shop in town and pay their inflated prices to put an alpine system in. Mostly on account of a shortened deadline (have to drive my evo soutb for 18hours in a few weeks), lack of free weekends to do it, and i feel with my current lack of expertise its just going to compound the time issue.
.... Ugh maybe ill suck it up yet if i can find some confidence through DIY wiring videos/manuals/forum posts.
Just cant decide...
Thanks again for your input regardless!
However, i think im going to puss out and take it to the audio shop in town and pay their inflated prices to put an alpine system in. Mostly on account of a shortened deadline (have to drive my evo soutb for 18hours in a few weeks), lack of free weekends to do it, and i feel with my current lack of expertise its just going to compound the time issue.
.... Ugh maybe ill suck it up yet if i can find some confidence through DIY wiring videos/manuals/forum posts.
Just cant decide...
Thanks again for your input regardless!
#4
Evolving Member
Durn - A few suggestions....
I agree with veronica, stay away from the axxess pieces, they're junk. Use the Pac Audio SWI-RC.
Save some $$ and skip the rear door speakers. You will never hear them. Or better yet, take the savings from skipping the rears and put that $ into better front components.
Please dont use the rockford prime components. The mylar tweeters are super harsh, and the 6.5 have no midbass. Try some JL Audio C2 650s for the front doors. they use a silk dome tweeter that is much smoother and you can get much more out of the mids.
Dont waste your money on the Rockford R1. Rockfords Prime line is some of the cheapest and crappiest gear out there from a big name manufacturer. Try the JL AUDIO W1 instead.
If you do decide to skip the rears, Change the amp to JL AUDIO XD 500/3. It will give you 75 watts per channel for the front components, and 300 for the sub. And i can guarantee it will sound way better than the kicker amp.
You may notice that i'm recommending a lot of JL AUDIO stuff here. I'm not a super fanboy of JL or anything, but especially in the lower price points they make some of the best gear available. I've been in the car audio scene professionally for about 10 years now, and these recommendations are based on first hand experience.
I agree with veronica, stay away from the axxess pieces, they're junk. Use the Pac Audio SWI-RC.
Save some $$ and skip the rear door speakers. You will never hear them. Or better yet, take the savings from skipping the rears and put that $ into better front components.
Please dont use the rockford prime components. The mylar tweeters are super harsh, and the 6.5 have no midbass. Try some JL Audio C2 650s for the front doors. they use a silk dome tweeter that is much smoother and you can get much more out of the mids.
Dont waste your money on the Rockford R1. Rockfords Prime line is some of the cheapest and crappiest gear out there from a big name manufacturer. Try the JL AUDIO W1 instead.
If you do decide to skip the rears, Change the amp to JL AUDIO XD 500/3. It will give you 75 watts per channel for the front components, and 300 for the sub. And i can guarantee it will sound way better than the kicker amp.
You may notice that i'm recommending a lot of JL AUDIO stuff here. I'm not a super fanboy of JL or anything, but especially in the lower price points they make some of the best gear available. I've been in the car audio scene professionally for about 10 years now, and these recommendations are based on first hand experience.
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