tiesto14

Hello,

I'm new to this forum and a happy owner of a Lancer Evo X 2009 since 3 months (10k miles) I just received my Varis Ver. Ultimate LED CCFL Angel Eyes Headlight and i regret that, need some help :

1) I bought them with a low beam HID upgrade that I tried to install, but problem : the "10" (red) resistors of the car burnt (those in the box near the air filter). Which resistor should I install to make them work with the xenon bulbs (35w) ?

2) So awaiting a solution regarding 1) I put the regular halogen bulb for low beam, and I upgraded the high beam with some 55w blue light

Problems :
- The low beam act like a high beam (light goes too high and not powerful at all, the stock headlights are far better)
- The high beam is something like lighting the sky instead of the road, and for a 55w it is not powerful at all.

What are the ways to fix these issues ? the low beam is not height adjustable (the stock headlights were of course..) and for 1000$ headlights I am very disappointed and don't know what to do

For info the car is stock with halogens

Thanks

JP3NS

iTrader: (1)

Try flipping the bulb, is it possible that you installed the bulb upside down? I know on h1 hid bulbs it is possible to do this accidentally.

KnightRyderx2

1. Those are fuses. Their purpose is to burn up before your wiring or control circuitry does, safety thing. This way you are replacing a .50 cent fuse instead of have a $500 repair bill because you burnt up your wiring. With that said put the same rated fuse in there ("10" red), do not put a higher rated one in there, you will have a bigger problem on your hands.

That HID kit you are putting in there is causing the fuse to blow. Make sure the connection from the HID kit to the stock headlight is the right polarity, like said above. Check the instruction manual to see if you have to reverse the polarity for 9006 application. If not then you will need to call the company you bought them from and work it out with them. If you reverse them and its still blowing that fuse then something it wrong with the HID kit and you will have to exchange it.


2. Im not sure how you got a 9006 bulb into an H7 socket but that could be your problem right there. The bulb has to seat nicely into the socket to work correctly. I'm pretty sure it just the Varis name on some Chinese made headlights. So with that it could be the projector in them suck and light output is horrible.

Same thing for the highbeams, 9004 bulb into a H1 socket, not sure how that worked. Also blue headlight suck for light output, looks cool but no where near the intensity compared to stock.


To fix your problems put everything including the headlight back to stock for now. First work out the HID kit problem so you can at least get them on without the fuse blowing. Once you get that done you can see about the low beam light pattern. If the light output still sucks, the projector is crap. For your high beam you will need an H7 bulb and h7 socket to 9004 adaptor, maybe it came with this already. Then you can really see how the highs are performing.

I wouldn't be surprised if these headlights are all looks and no performance in terms of light control and beam pattern. Good luck

tiesto14

Thanks for your answer, I bought them here : Mars Performance, they seam very serious on the phone and by email.

The HID upgrade kit and high beam upgrade I took came with the socket needed, I don't think the problem comes from that.. when I tried the HID first it worked for some seconds before the fuse blew up, can it still be a polarity problem ?

Do I have any possibility to fix the low beam problem that goes a little high ? I will prefer to keep it that way and not upgrade it to high beam (150$ lost), don't want to blow anything...

splattj

iTrader: (2)

A 35w Ballast will use anywhere from 4-11 amps. There was a thread on HID planet where they tested a bunch of different ballasts.

You don't have a polarity problem if the fuse is just slow blowing. Your ballasts are likely drawing too much power because they are of a poor design. You should only need 3 amps to produce 35w at 12v. You should return the HID kit for a more efficient model like a Morimoto3Five, for example.

I'm not sure but you can probably aim the headlight assembly as a whole but without seeing your beam patterns on a wall it's hard to say what's going on.

Alternately, you could try a slightly larger fuse like a 15 amp but unless you know the exact gauge of the wiring from that fuse to the ballast, you won't know if it will cause problems so I really can't recommend you do this.

KnightRyderx2

Since you say its coming on for a little bit and then blowing the fuse its not a polity problem. The kit you bought is no good. I would suggest you return that and buy a good kit, xenondepot or The retrofit source would be two. They are pricey but they are worth every penny.

Do not put a higher rated fuse in there, down the road you will have problems with burnt wires and/or circuitry. Then all you will have is a massive repair bill.

As for the light pattern, at night park the car about 20 feet away from a wall and see how the light looks. The low beam should have a distinctive cut off that is about 3 feet off the ground.

If there is a cutoff then you will have to adjust it. As you said there is no adjust screws so you might have to get creative. Some way to get the top of the head light tilted forward so the cut off is right. How you do is up to you.

If there is no cut off, there is no easy way to fix that. That means the projector in there is junk. At this point you would have to either exchange it out and hopefully the new one has a good projector or retrofit it. Try exchanging them first, maybe you got a bad batch. If the second set doesn't work get your money back or its retrofit time. I'm a hands on kind of guy so I would go with the retrofit. Open them up and replace the current projector with a EVOX-R bi-xenon D2S and have low and hi in one light.

tiesto14

See attached the low and high beam distance from wall not accurate I did it on the go, there is clearly a problem with the right high and low beam.

I don't know if there is one or multiple adjusting screws, I sent an email to Varis.. Maybe it is the 2 gray plastic screws (see pic) ?

KnightRyderx2

That cut off isn't to bad. The way you were describing it earlier it sounded way off with no cut off. The left just needs to go up just a little bit and right down just a little bit. That "step" in the beam needs to be at the same level just a few inches away from each other. The highs are alright, I agree they are a bit high though. But there really isn't anything you can do about those. Besides how often do we use highs.

As for aligning them the two gray screws on the back is for that. Just be gentle when turning them usually they are week and will break. I forgot the measurements but they are all over the Internet. Lots of instructions on how to set it up and how it's supposed to look.

tiesto14

Well I feel better now thanks for the advices, i'll check on the internet what should be the proper settings.

as for the Halo that doesn't work, i'll have to open the headlight to see what' going on there, is it just simple as that or are there any precautions to take ?

KnightRyderx2

By the picture of the back of the headlight it looks like they run through the multi pin and should be working off your stock DRLs. Check that connection, make sure the pins are terminated good, they are crimped corrected and seated nicely. I have ran into some of these the connectors that where not put together very well.

There was a couple times I have to open them up to check the solder points and redo circuitry but these dont look that complicated. Im not sure what that little box sitting under light in the picture is maybe a regulator/led control box. If that is what it is dont put 12 volts directly to the halos as may burn them out.

tiesto14

Thanks for your answers, finally they will send me a brand new right headlight, but as I am unhappy with the bulbs (even the 55w Hi blue bulb), Which brands should I look for to buy both Lo H7 and Hi H1 bulbs, and what should be the color of each ? I'd need to order them from France so mayby michelin, bosch and philips are good brands ?

Finally I will stay with halogen, don't want to spend money on new 150$ballasts...

KnightRyderx2

Philips is a good brand. Also you can look at Osram, Sylvania, and PIAA, not sure if they have those there. The first two are from Germany and PIAA is from Japan.

tiesto14

Ok, should I avoid 5000k blue bulbs for light output both for H1 and H7 ?

splattj

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't use them. The blue bulbs put out less visible light. 4300k is stock color temp and a little whiter isn't too bad.

I would use Osram or Flosser for the H7 and Narva or Flosser for the H1. They should be readily available in Europe. GE and Phillips are built to the same standard and should be fine as well. Anything off-brand or that seems too cheap on eBay is probably a knock off or no good.

KnightRyderx2

5000k will be good. Thats actually a little whiter then stock, not to much blue in there. I use 5500k to 6000k when doing head lights, it gives me that pure white with a hint of blue. I find that range gives me the best balance of looks and performance. The thing about lights is as you get bluer, higher in number, the less usable light there is. It is especially horrible in the rain, all the usable is gone. I hate that stock yellowish color of the stock lights, but it is the best for light output.