Solarwater

Hi guys, so last friday I installed a synapse DV and was dialing it in with psi based control and a 3-port. I was having no problems (except over boosting a few times while getting the base wgdc curve set). I ran out of daylight and planned to continue on saturday. Saturday I go out to do some more pulls and I start knocking a lot at high RPMs, I try to dial back some timing and add some fuel, but it didnt help. I then decided to drive it home and try to figure out what is wrong. On the way home, I notice that I am getting very high knock counts at low rpm tip-in.

Thinking my tune might be causing issues, I put the stock DV back in and flash back to stock maps with boost control dissabled (because I have the 3-port, and stock maps would overboost). I still have the same issue with the low rpm tip-in knock.

I did a compression test with the motor warm, I am seeing 125 115 115 125. A little low .


I also noticed that I have a crack on the top of the exhaust manifold. Could this be causing problems?

I have a 2010 Evo X GSR
MAP downpipe
ETS resonated test pipe
ETS quiet catback
fidanza flywheel and spec clutch
grimmspeed 3-port
Synapse DV (stock put back on)

I have attached a log from driving around as well as a photo of the manifold (sorry for the low light photo).

Prior to installing and tuning the synapse DV, the car was running great. I have never seen this much knock before.

Let me know what you guys think. I really need help on this one.

Thanks

Solarwater

Nobody has any insight on this?

I could really use some help.

Thanks.

Jake.barratt

All I know is a crack cant be good. but is the car tuned?

Solarwater

I've tuned it myself.

I am not too concerned about the crack in the manifold, it is pretty small, so can't leak too badly. I am more curious if the crack could be causing false knock.

Solarwater

After having to replace my clutch master cylinder, I finally have been able to make a couple more logs.

I should also say that I have tried pulling timing in the area this is happening. (zeroed out the timing map there), and I was still getting the knock showing up.

I have attached the logs.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

Solarwater

Ok, I have been looking for something that might be rattling. Down pipe looks ok, i can fit a finger all the way around it between the pipe and the heat shields.

I am still having the high knock counts between 2-3K, and around 0 manifold pressure, and part throttle.

I am getting more knock up top than I have in the past, and the ecu is pulling timing.

If someone could help point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it.

awdxftw

iTrader: (9)

this is gonna be a doosha answer you should drive your car to slomotion they'll get you right.. You're in ohio they're very reasonable and they have 3 ridiculously fast evos thats where i'm going...

joseph143

iTrader: (8)

It sounds like a vacuum leak... Just my 2 cents... Or even possibly bad fuel...

How consistent is the knock? Is it repeatable? Or is it erratic? Repeatable knock tends to be pinging or detention... Erratic knock tends to be caused by other issues...

Solarwater

I have run through a few tanks of 93 octane from a couple different gas stations. Problem did not resolve. The knock is pretty repeatable, around 70-100 load between 2k-3k rpm.

So today, I flashed back to stock with mode 23 enabled. I put the stock boost control solenoid back in and hooked up the hoses per the service manual (the hoses are color coded, so hard to screw up). Currently, the TBE is the only non stock piece on the motor.

I took it out and was shocked to be spiking 28-30psi. I even hit the boost limiter and got "asc service required" message.

Wondering if the stock solenoids were bad, I hooked the wga direct to the turbo. Now, what I got was very inconsistent. I would often spike to 14psi, and then it would settle out to around 10psi. Sometimes it would spike, drop to 10, and then start building back to 12-13. On one pull it even held a pretty consistent 14psi.

This tells me there is something wrong with the WGA?

I have included logs of stock tune with stock boost control system and stock tune with wga direct to turbo.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks

ripnet

Are your relays good?

Solarwater

When this started happening, I replaced the fuel pump relay with another blue one. It didn't help. Any other relays I should be looking at?

FastAttack

iTrader: (5)

do the salt shaker test on them first.

Solarwater

When I replaced the stock fuel pump relay about a year ago, the stock black was definitely salt shaking. I replaced it with a blue relay.

I just shake tested all the engine related relays in the underhood fuse panel, and heard nothing. If there are any other suspect relays (I haven't heard of anything besides the fuel pump relay), then I can swap a new relay in for testing.


I purchased a used exhaust manifold and WGA, so when those come in, I will see if either fix my problems. I am so sick of this thing not running properly.

Solarwater

Alright, So I installed the WGA, no improvement, and the boost was acting the same as with the original WGA.

Installed the manifold (no crack) with fresh gaskets, and no change.

I am stumped guys.

FastAttack

iTrader: (5)

Ok I would do 2 checks.

Check your knock sensor..
Double check your downpipe and make sure its not rubbing anywhere in the frame.. this also goes for your exhaust.

I've had countless turbo cars that had this similar issue. It all comes down to something rattling against the frame pf the car or something that rattle enough for the knock sensor to pick it up.

.. As far as the WGA.. Did you preload it? remember your going to get some slight ocillation when running no sort of boost control , therefore your WGA will oscillate a tad bit.

I would be more concern trying to track down the knock.