3 Port Boost Tuning Help Please
Jul 9, 2016, 06:39 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
3 Port Boost Tuning Help Please
Hi all. I have a 2012 GSR and am currently replacing the engine with a Buschur sleeved block. The original engine grenaded and is attributed to a very poor tune that resulted in extremely bad surge. The tuner was slack in his support, and the engine exploded. The car is only street driven and had ~20k miles on it. Maps were locked by the tuner.
My new tuner is proven and is very good at what they do. He is dead set on using a MBC for the tune. I'm using an AP (used on previous tune). Open source, COBB he will tune only with an MBC. I have a full stage 3 package with 3 port.
If someone could help I really would like to learn how the 3 port can be tuned for boost and eliminate the MBC.
Reason? On my past mitsu cars with MBC they were altitude sensitive. I travel a bit. So low altitudes, car runs great. Go in the mountains, I have to give the knob a twist to reduce boost and surging. As intricate as mitsu ecu controls boost, it seems like solenoid duty cycle control is the way to go. So.
1) I have read tuning guides. They are clear for people familiar with tuning. I'm an automation tech so computer control of machinery is my specialty.
2) Can the boost curve versus altitude control a 3 port to kill surging when I drive up a long highway going uphill and want to pass a car w/o downshifting over 60 mph?
3) All of the tables my tuner will modify. Using an MBC, will he adjust any that have direct relation to 3 port duty cycle even though it's taken out of the picture?
4) Engine load relationship. Load to me is how hard the engine pulls on a flat road vs how it would work heading into a strong head wind or driving up a long highway into the hills. If I floor it on a flat road in 5th, it's going to work less than if I floor it going up that long road.
So if backing off an MBC a turn or so fixes surging in the hills, can the ecu and boost curve be set to do the same thing with a 3 port?
If anyone could please "dummy down" 3 port tuning and point me to some basics using the COBB AP I sure would sleep better at night.
If I understand everything I've read correctly, my tuner will do his thing and make my new engine run timing and afr curves, etc. Leaving the wastegate duty cycle solenoid disconnected in favor of an MBC with an unlocked map for me to be able to grab logs and look at mapping. I'd really like to understand boost tuning using the 3 port. COBB or open source. This has been an expensive one.
Someone? Help?
My new tuner is proven and is very good at what they do. He is dead set on using a MBC for the tune. I'm using an AP (used on previous tune). Open source, COBB he will tune only with an MBC. I have a full stage 3 package with 3 port.
If someone could help I really would like to learn how the 3 port can be tuned for boost and eliminate the MBC.
Reason? On my past mitsu cars with MBC they were altitude sensitive. I travel a bit. So low altitudes, car runs great. Go in the mountains, I have to give the knob a twist to reduce boost and surging. As intricate as mitsu ecu controls boost, it seems like solenoid duty cycle control is the way to go. So.
1) I have read tuning guides. They are clear for people familiar with tuning. I'm an automation tech so computer control of machinery is my specialty.
2) Can the boost curve versus altitude control a 3 port to kill surging when I drive up a long highway going uphill and want to pass a car w/o downshifting over 60 mph?
3) All of the tables my tuner will modify. Using an MBC, will he adjust any that have direct relation to 3 port duty cycle even though it's taken out of the picture?
4) Engine load relationship. Load to me is how hard the engine pulls on a flat road vs how it would work heading into a strong head wind or driving up a long highway into the hills. If I floor it on a flat road in 5th, it's going to work less than if I floor it going up that long road.
So if backing off an MBC a turn or so fixes surging in the hills, can the ecu and boost curve be set to do the same thing with a 3 port?
If anyone could please "dummy down" 3 port tuning and point me to some basics using the COBB AP I sure would sleep better at night.
If I understand everything I've read correctly, my tuner will do his thing and make my new engine run timing and afr curves, etc. Leaving the wastegate duty cycle solenoid disconnected in favor of an MBC with an unlocked map for me to be able to grab logs and look at mapping. I'd really like to understand boost tuning using the 3 port. COBB or open source. This has been an expensive one.
Someone? Help?
Jul 13, 2016, 01:12 PM
#5
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I would another tuner. The X has great active boost control, and to not use it is ridiculous.
Jul 13, 2016, 07:04 PM
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
And search,I have. And spoke with a few tuners.
So far info offered is:
Open source, COBB both CAN utilize 3 port ebcs and control boost well through the RPM range.
But. 2 tuners are dead set on mbc over ebcs. Both tuners are unfamiliar with Mustang dyno road grade compensation, 1 knows about the max road speed to load the drivetrain.
From the manual, those settings are on the same page.
I have described my previous tune using 3 port boost control surging having the tendency to compressor surge and my boost gauge fluctuations during surge.
1 tuner explained that that was the down side of solenoid versus spring and ball boost control.
I also explained that my tune seemed sensitive to altitude. Closer to sea level in Florida, mbc set by my tuner and the car screamed. Traveling up north on I 77 and ending up in roads that aren't flat, 2200 ft. above sea level, mbc needed a turn or so to lower boost to prevent surge.
In both situations I gather that the ecu should calculate altitude throughout it's programmed parameters, and not give a crap if I'm on the beach or at the top of Pike's Peak.
But I got surge with open source and mbc done at sea level on a IX MR, and my X tuned at 500 ft. above sea level with 3 port surged very bad when I drove up to 2200 ft on not-so-flat highways. So bad that now I'm looking at a block that's toast, and 10 grand in a Buschur short block and all the right parts parts waiting to go back in the car.
So basically, I'm gun shy right now. Lot's of cash due to a botched tune. And apparently tuner's in my area who are used to set it and forget it dyno configurations, and not quite sure how to tune with 3 port (basically saying trash the 3 port and put up with cranking an mbc up and down as I travel around). And although they listen to me when I describe how the car ran and when I ask if they can possibly eliminate those problems (mainly surging), the word "MBC" keeps coming back.
So, what to do? And the questions I'm asking are these:
1)Can I attempt to incorporate 3 port tuning AFTER a dyno tune done with an MBC?
2)Will any other settings NOT associated with boost control for 3 port change if I take out an MBC and reconnect the 3 port, and curve settings for it? AFR, Timing, MIVEC?
3)Will a 3 port system on a tune only work at the altitude above sea level at which the car was tuned?
4) If tuned by the master gurus of tuners (wherever they may be), whether using mbc OR 3 port, would compressor surge at higher altitudes (barometric pressure differences from sea level) ever have been an issue with varying loads on the engine?
and...
5) What is aluminum going for these days? I have a block, ladder frame, etc I need to scrap.
thanks everyone for helping.
So far info offered is:
Open source, COBB both CAN utilize 3 port ebcs and control boost well through the RPM range.
But. 2 tuners are dead set on mbc over ebcs. Both tuners are unfamiliar with Mustang dyno road grade compensation, 1 knows about the max road speed to load the drivetrain.
From the manual, those settings are on the same page.
I have described my previous tune using 3 port boost control surging having the tendency to compressor surge and my boost gauge fluctuations during surge.
1 tuner explained that that was the down side of solenoid versus spring and ball boost control.
I also explained that my tune seemed sensitive to altitude. Closer to sea level in Florida, mbc set by my tuner and the car screamed. Traveling up north on I 77 and ending up in roads that aren't flat, 2200 ft. above sea level, mbc needed a turn or so to lower boost to prevent surge.
In both situations I gather that the ecu should calculate altitude throughout it's programmed parameters, and not give a crap if I'm on the beach or at the top of Pike's Peak.
But I got surge with open source and mbc done at sea level on a IX MR, and my X tuned at 500 ft. above sea level with 3 port surged very bad when I drove up to 2200 ft on not-so-flat highways. So bad that now I'm looking at a block that's toast, and 10 grand in a Buschur short block and all the right parts parts waiting to go back in the car.
So basically, I'm gun shy right now. Lot's of cash due to a botched tune. And apparently tuner's in my area who are used to set it and forget it dyno configurations, and not quite sure how to tune with 3 port (basically saying trash the 3 port and put up with cranking an mbc up and down as I travel around). And although they listen to me when I describe how the car ran and when I ask if they can possibly eliminate those problems (mainly surging), the word "MBC" keeps coming back.
So, what to do? And the questions I'm asking are these:
1)Can I attempt to incorporate 3 port tuning AFTER a dyno tune done with an MBC?
2)Will any other settings NOT associated with boost control for 3 port change if I take out an MBC and reconnect the 3 port, and curve settings for it? AFR, Timing, MIVEC?
3)Will a 3 port system on a tune only work at the altitude above sea level at which the car was tuned?
4) If tuned by the master gurus of tuners (wherever they may be), whether using mbc OR 3 port, would compressor surge at higher altitudes (barometric pressure differences from sea level) ever have been an issue with varying loads on the engine?
and...
5) What is aluminum going for these days? I have a block, ladder frame, etc I need to scrap.
thanks everyone for helping.
Last edited by Arlo; Jul 13, 2016 at 07:36 PM. Reason: oops
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Jul 23, 2016, 05:07 AM
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Great comment Radio, dude.
Do ya think? Take awhile and compile a list of tuners who have mastered it.
Not ones who say that they can. Deal?
At ~500 bucks a shot on the dyno and all the while saying "they say that they can" (tune using a 3 port). And my very first ever engine that is blown to pieces. 10 grand plus my labor. And do not forget to read that I drive hours and put trust in those people.
Although many folks take serious questions that are detailed and offer great tips and assistance. You are not helping. Not at all, really.
A tuner should keep up with the times. Know their software, dynamometer, etc.
And instead of having the mentality that because the process that they have used worked just fine in the past, any new technology is bullcrap.
So read again please. Briefly.
IF a tuner who has not mastered 3 port tuning decides to use a manual boost controller.
And I get a very good idea of what it takes using the right software and logging peripherals (wideband, etc). From reading intelligent replies, links.
To NOW implement the 3 port into the tune.
And get intelligent input of what ecu programming parameters are related and affected by implementing a solenoid with venting port which is duty cycle controlled.
And data log the boost curve which the ball and spring controller provided.
And remove the ball and spring controller, switch to 3 port.
Start logging...gently...and see how it is now affecting the boost curve.
Check, change in software the solenoid parameters....intelligently and carefully.
.......And be completely aware of all of the other parameters which will change when setting up the solenoid curve....
1 highly recommended tuner 4 hours away after many inquiries.
Phone calls asking about their skills.
Describing how the car runs and asking if drivetrain loading could be increased.
Paying up front.
Promised quick turnaround if I should have problems.
Days, weeks of unanswered and unreturned phone calls and emails.
Inability to see from data logs, hear from audio files of compressor surge.
No offer to return to the shop to duplicate the loading conditions (no knowledge of how to setup the dyno).
And a blown to hell engine which should have never occurred.
I drive the car. Do not lay on and bounce the rev limiter, drop the clutch, speed shift.
Radio, you're not helping, man.
Hopefully you can read and relate.
Do ya think? Take awhile and compile a list of tuners who have mastered it.
Not ones who say that they can. Deal?
At ~500 bucks a shot on the dyno and all the while saying "they say that they can" (tune using a 3 port). And my very first ever engine that is blown to pieces. 10 grand plus my labor. And do not forget to read that I drive hours and put trust in those people.
Although many folks take serious questions that are detailed and offer great tips and assistance. You are not helping. Not at all, really.
A tuner should keep up with the times. Know their software, dynamometer, etc.
And instead of having the mentality that because the process that they have used worked just fine in the past, any new technology is bullcrap.
So read again please. Briefly.
IF a tuner who has not mastered 3 port tuning decides to use a manual boost controller.
And I get a very good idea of what it takes using the right software and logging peripherals (wideband, etc). From reading intelligent replies, links.
To NOW implement the 3 port into the tune.
And get intelligent input of what ecu programming parameters are related and affected by implementing a solenoid with venting port which is duty cycle controlled.
And data log the boost curve which the ball and spring controller provided.
And remove the ball and spring controller, switch to 3 port.
Start logging...gently...and see how it is now affecting the boost curve.
Check, change in software the solenoid parameters....intelligently and carefully.
.......And be completely aware of all of the other parameters which will change when setting up the solenoid curve....
1 highly recommended tuner 4 hours away after many inquiries.
Phone calls asking about their skills.
Describing how the car runs and asking if drivetrain loading could be increased.
Paying up front.
Promised quick turnaround if I should have problems.
Days, weeks of unanswered and unreturned phone calls and emails.
Inability to see from data logs, hear from audio files of compressor surge.
No offer to return to the shop to duplicate the loading conditions (no knowledge of how to setup the dyno).
And a blown to hell engine which should have never occurred.
I drive the car. Do not lay on and bounce the rev limiter, drop the clutch, speed shift.
Radio, you're not helping, man.
Hopefully you can read and relate.
Jul 23, 2016, 08:43 AM
#10
Great comment Radio, dude.
Do ya think? Take awhile and compile a list of tuners who have mastered it.
Not ones who say that they can. Deal?
At ~500 bucks a shot on the dyno and all the while saying "they say that they can" (tune using a 3 port). And my very first ever engine that is blown to pieces. 10 grand plus my labor. And do not forget to read that I drive hours and put trust in those people.
Although many folks take serious questions that are detailed and offer great tips and assistance. You are not helping. Not at all, really.
A tuner should keep up with the times. Know their software, dynamometer, etc.
And instead of having the mentality that because the process that they have used worked just fine in the past, any new technology is bullcrap.
So read again please. Briefly.
IF a tuner who has not mastered 3 port tuning decides to use a manual boost controller.
And I get a very good idea of what it takes using the right software and logging peripherals (wideband, etc). From reading intelligent replies, links.
To NOW implement the 3 port into the tune.
And get intelligent input of what ecu programming parameters are related and affected by implementing a solenoid with venting port which is duty cycle controlled.
And data log the boost curve which the ball and spring controller provided.
And remove the ball and spring controller, switch to 3 port.
Start logging...gently...and see how it is now affecting the boost curve.
Check, change in software the solenoid parameters....intelligently and carefully.
.......And be completely aware of all of the other parameters which will change when setting up the solenoid curve....
1 highly recommended tuner 4 hours away after many inquiries.
Phone calls asking about their skills.
Describing how the car runs and asking if drivetrain loading could be increased.
Paying up front.
Promised quick turnaround if I should have problems.
Days, weeks of unanswered and unreturned phone calls and emails.
Inability to see from data logs, hear from audio files of compressor surge.
No offer to return to the shop to duplicate the loading conditions (no knowledge of how to setup the dyno).
And a blown to hell engine which should have never occurred.
I drive the car. Do not lay on and bounce the rev limiter, drop the clutch, speed shift.
Radio, you're not helping, man.
Hopefully you can read and relate.
Do ya think? Take awhile and compile a list of tuners who have mastered it.
Not ones who say that they can. Deal?
At ~500 bucks a shot on the dyno and all the while saying "they say that they can" (tune using a 3 port). And my very first ever engine that is blown to pieces. 10 grand plus my labor. And do not forget to read that I drive hours and put trust in those people.
Although many folks take serious questions that are detailed and offer great tips and assistance. You are not helping. Not at all, really.
A tuner should keep up with the times. Know their software, dynamometer, etc.
And instead of having the mentality that because the process that they have used worked just fine in the past, any new technology is bullcrap.
So read again please. Briefly.
IF a tuner who has not mastered 3 port tuning decides to use a manual boost controller.
And I get a very good idea of what it takes using the right software and logging peripherals (wideband, etc). From reading intelligent replies, links.
To NOW implement the 3 port into the tune.
And get intelligent input of what ecu programming parameters are related and affected by implementing a solenoid with venting port which is duty cycle controlled.
And data log the boost curve which the ball and spring controller provided.
And remove the ball and spring controller, switch to 3 port.
Start logging...gently...and see how it is now affecting the boost curve.
Check, change in software the solenoid parameters....intelligently and carefully.
.......And be completely aware of all of the other parameters which will change when setting up the solenoid curve....
1 highly recommended tuner 4 hours away after many inquiries.
Phone calls asking about their skills.
Describing how the car runs and asking if drivetrain loading could be increased.
Paying up front.
Promised quick turnaround if I should have problems.
Days, weeks of unanswered and unreturned phone calls and emails.
Inability to see from data logs, hear from audio files of compressor surge.
No offer to return to the shop to duplicate the loading conditions (no knowledge of how to setup the dyno).
And a blown to hell engine which should have never occurred.
I drive the car. Do not lay on and bounce the rev limiter, drop the clutch, speed shift.
Radio, you're not helping, man.
Hopefully you can read and relate.
I would highly recommend Speed Circuit. Dino is extremely knowledgeable and easily the best tuner for the X platform. I wouldn't run an MBC in this car based on the available options. If your tuner is NOT proficient with a 3 port, then that tuner would be the last person I would go to. No offense, but you're asking questions that don't need to be asked because there's a wealth of knowledge out there.
You're not going to get a tune for an MBC and then smooth out the boost curve with a 3 port later on. You're going to be getting a completely different tune altogether. I would spend the time asking EXPERIENCED tuners who deal with this platform specifically. It's not worth trial and error or attempting to do things yourself. Your previous tune that got a bunch of surge was poorly done to begin with, not to mention we don't know the specifics of your driving habits. Again, experience trumps everything else in this particular instance.
Please do yourself a favor and contact a REPUTABLE Evo X tuner such as Dino from Speed Circuit. His e-tunes are better than a lot of "dyno" tunes that are out there and he's very well versed on all the ins and outs of how our platform behaves. If you still insist on going the MBC route, I wish you and your bank account all the best
The following users liked this post:
Arlo (Jul 23, 2016)
Jul 27, 2016, 04:30 AM
#11
find another tuner, even a remote etune from any of these guys:
baka (jon@5150 racing)
chet rickerman
razorlab
tj@wtftuned
would be better than 99% of in person tunes from most other no-namers...
but if you want an in person experience, trawl these forums - most of the good tuners are on here, and know these cars backwards/forwards... no reason to go to an unknown...
** above list in alphabetical order not to offend/favour anyone :P
hrmm maybe i should assemble a list of Tephra Preferred Tuners
baka (jon@5150 racing)
chet rickerman
razorlab
tj@wtftuned
would be better than 99% of in person tunes from most other no-namers...
but if you want an in person experience, trawl these forums - most of the good tuners are on here, and know these cars backwards/forwards... no reason to go to an unknown...
** above list in alphabetical order not to offend/favour anyone :P
hrmm maybe i should assemble a list of Tephra Preferred Tuners
Jul 27, 2016, 04:40 AM
#12
and to answer your questions:
1) No, that's would be insane
2) Why would you want todo this in the first place?
3) No, there might be some slight deviations in boost levels when at different altitudes, but your not going to notice it much..
4) If you going to be doing a lot of altitude changes, then have your tuner check the tune at the extremes and make sure your good.. (certainly an advantage of road tuning)
5) Aluminium is currently going for about 73c (USD) per lb
1) No, that's would be insane
2) Why would you want todo this in the first place?
3) No, there might be some slight deviations in boost levels when at different altitudes, but your not going to notice it much..
4) If you going to be doing a lot of altitude changes, then have your tuner check the tune at the extremes and make sure your good.. (certainly an advantage of road tuning)
5) Aluminium is currently going for about 73c (USD) per lb
Jul 27, 2016, 08:56 AM
#13
Newbie
Thread Starter
and to answer your questions:
1) No, that's would be insane
Maybe it's insane. Tephra you are "the boss" when it comes to this subject. It is an honor to see a reply from you. Down to business. We are sort of alike. Find ways to make something work better and share those things with others. When someone flat out says that they do not, will not tune using a 3 port. Makes me wonder. I do not have spare cash to "tuner-hop". Everyone says they can. Only a few actually have taken the time to make it as perfect w/o anomalies (altitude sensitivity, etc). Because they have taken time to master these things either on the road or on a dyno.
2) Why would you want todo this in the first place?
It's simple. I'm gun shy, $500 tuner/dyno time in the hole and a blown engine which shouldn't have occurred in the first place from me being a trusting person that the tuner actually knew his stuff. A highly recommended tuner at that, who slacked on his after the sale support. So, my next tuner is great, well known, extremely skillful...but has not adapted (aka: learned) "newer" (electronic) boost control incorporated into the ecu. And has people believing that it is actually is the way to go. So, is it really (mbc vs 3 port tuning)?
3) No, there might be some slight deviations in boost levels when at different altitudes, but your not going to notice it much..
And so the question remains. Stock turbo, cams, wg, diverter, 3" exh, big ic and hard piping, 3 port, and a tune. Go up around ~1800 feet in altitude in the hills and I'm almost able to surge the compressor on command. That is the hardest thing for me to understand. Why? The tuner could not "see it" in my logs. Audio recordings let him hear surge and video showing a fluttering boost gauge. 24psi boost at sea level makes the car run awesome, 24psi at 2000 feet or so makes it surge. ECU cannot be tuned to know the difference?
Gosh. Look at it how I'm thinking. At idle there is 0% engine load. Gently accelerate....maybe 20%. Run the ***** out of it..run it through the gears hard...100%. Right? Drive into a Tsunami (because I was told to downshift at 65mph at 3500rpm up a little itty bitty hill...my relationship). The engine now loaded ~105%..why cannot boost/timing, etc be lowered to prevent surge? Seems like it should. Because that is exactly what I was doing on my IX MR with a Forge controller by cranking it back a turn or so. And never having to leave 6th gear under the same road conditions
4) If you going to be doing a lot of altitude changes, then have your tuner check the tune at the extremes and make sure your good.. (certainly an advantage of road tuning)
So far they either do not know how to, don't care, have never ventured away from their shop in their own tuned vehicle to relate what I have tried to describe and implement those things into the tune.
I spent last night on youtube watching the AEM tuning video set. Other than a soft voice and going over things that you would be very familiar with, the relationships between various maps were a bit overwhelming. But one thing was clear. Tune AFR, timing. Get things stable. THEN tune in boost for a 3 port.
Expecting that my tuner will incorporate the preliminaries into the tune. Compensate for variables under boost (mbc boost). That answers why I would want to tune in my own 3 port after the fact.
5) Aluminium is currently going for about 73c (USD) per lb
Haha!! Al-loo-min-ee-um, Al-loo-min-um..La-bor-ra-tor-ee, Lab-ra-tory. Fosters, Australian for "Beer". We yanks just prefer to drink it in space! Thanks buddy so awful much for reading this.
1) No, that's would be insane
Maybe it's insane. Tephra you are "the boss" when it comes to this subject. It is an honor to see a reply from you. Down to business. We are sort of alike. Find ways to make something work better and share those things with others. When someone flat out says that they do not, will not tune using a 3 port. Makes me wonder. I do not have spare cash to "tuner-hop". Everyone says they can. Only a few actually have taken the time to make it as perfect w/o anomalies (altitude sensitivity, etc). Because they have taken time to master these things either on the road or on a dyno.
2) Why would you want todo this in the first place?
It's simple. I'm gun shy, $500 tuner/dyno time in the hole and a blown engine which shouldn't have occurred in the first place from me being a trusting person that the tuner actually knew his stuff. A highly recommended tuner at that, who slacked on his after the sale support. So, my next tuner is great, well known, extremely skillful...but has not adapted (aka: learned) "newer" (electronic) boost control incorporated into the ecu. And has people believing that it is actually is the way to go. So, is it really (mbc vs 3 port tuning)?
3) No, there might be some slight deviations in boost levels when at different altitudes, but your not going to notice it much..
And so the question remains. Stock turbo, cams, wg, diverter, 3" exh, big ic and hard piping, 3 port, and a tune. Go up around ~1800 feet in altitude in the hills and I'm almost able to surge the compressor on command. That is the hardest thing for me to understand. Why? The tuner could not "see it" in my logs. Audio recordings let him hear surge and video showing a fluttering boost gauge. 24psi boost at sea level makes the car run awesome, 24psi at 2000 feet or so makes it surge. ECU cannot be tuned to know the difference?
Gosh. Look at it how I'm thinking. At idle there is 0% engine load. Gently accelerate....maybe 20%. Run the ***** out of it..run it through the gears hard...100%. Right? Drive into a Tsunami (because I was told to downshift at 65mph at 3500rpm up a little itty bitty hill...my relationship). The engine now loaded ~105%..why cannot boost/timing, etc be lowered to prevent surge? Seems like it should. Because that is exactly what I was doing on my IX MR with a Forge controller by cranking it back a turn or so. And never having to leave 6th gear under the same road conditions
4) If you going to be doing a lot of altitude changes, then have your tuner check the tune at the extremes and make sure your good.. (certainly an advantage of road tuning)
So far they either do not know how to, don't care, have never ventured away from their shop in their own tuned vehicle to relate what I have tried to describe and implement those things into the tune.
I spent last night on youtube watching the AEM tuning video set. Other than a soft voice and going over things that you would be very familiar with, the relationships between various maps were a bit overwhelming. But one thing was clear. Tune AFR, timing. Get things stable. THEN tune in boost for a 3 port.
Expecting that my tuner will incorporate the preliminaries into the tune. Compensate for variables under boost (mbc boost). That answers why I would want to tune in my own 3 port after the fact.
5) Aluminium is currently going for about 73c (USD) per lb
Haha!! Al-loo-min-ee-um, Al-loo-min-um..La-bor-ra-tor-ee, Lab-ra-tory. Fosters, Australian for "Beer". We yanks just prefer to drink it in space! Thanks buddy so awful much for reading this.
Jul 30, 2016, 09:07 PM
#14
the problem with a tuner that is trying to use a MBC instead of tuning the EBCS is that this means they have NO CLUE about the platform, and thus NO EXPERIENCE...
it would be like me trying to put flexfuel on a Tesla... sure i may know a lot about flexfuel, but it aint gonna work is it..
on your surge issue, tell your new tuner, give them the logs... its very easy to spot bad surge in logs...
it would be like me trying to put flexfuel on a Tesla... sure i may know a lot about flexfuel, but it aint gonna work is it..
on your surge issue, tell your new tuner, give them the logs... its very easy to spot bad surge in logs...
The following users liked this post:
Arlo (Aug 3, 2016)
Jul 31, 2016, 03:27 PM
#15
Newbie
Thread Starter
Attached are logs from over a month of email tag to the York, PA tuner. For your entertainment.
If anything is clearly evident, what would they be and how should the tuner have handled them?
Valve overlap was the common catch phrase. Nothing else was commented in the "fix" maps.
At this point I am inviting a tuner in the central PA region who has mastered his equipment and software. Who is familiar with driving a tuned engine in varying elevations. And who is familiar with roads that are not level. Perhaps switchable maps for flat/hilly conditions.
Thanks!
If anything is clearly evident, what would they be and how should the tuner have handled them?
Valve overlap was the common catch phrase. Nothing else was commented in the "fix" maps.
At this point I am inviting a tuner in the central PA region who has mastered his equipment and software. Who is familiar with driving a tuned engine in varying elevations. And who is familiar with roads that are not level. Perhaps switchable maps for flat/hilly conditions.
Thanks!