0w40
Jun 22, 2009, 10:11 AM
#1
0w40
Hey guys,
I have noticied a considerable change in engine noise when the factory oil (5w30) is nearing its oil change interval. I've noticed that new oil quiets the motor down a good bit, I've also noticed that the Mobile 1 EP5w30 keeps the motor quieter longer. I believe it doesn't lose it's viscosity as fast.
I've actually had my car into Mitsu several times for a "motor sound" issue, Mitsu claimed normal, but I still don't like it. Motor seems fine, oil analysis is good, and car has almost 24k on her with no issues except the noise.
I am thinking of switching to Mobile 1 0w40 oil, as vicosity seems to quiet the motor down a good bit.
What are your thoughts on running a 40w? I live in the south with daily summer temp averages of 95º?
Ohh..if anyone is curious, the noise is very similar to rod knock, and only seems to occur around 2000-3000 rpm, higher rpm's tend to make a whining sound as if a belt is rubbing but no belts are rubbing
I have noticied a considerable change in engine noise when the factory oil (5w30) is nearing its oil change interval. I've noticed that new oil quiets the motor down a good bit, I've also noticed that the Mobile 1 EP5w30 keeps the motor quieter longer. I believe it doesn't lose it's viscosity as fast.
I've actually had my car into Mitsu several times for a "motor sound" issue, Mitsu claimed normal, but I still don't like it. Motor seems fine, oil analysis is good, and car has almost 24k on her with no issues except the noise.
I am thinking of switching to Mobile 1 0w40 oil, as vicosity seems to quiet the motor down a good bit.
What are your thoughts on running a 40w? I live in the south with daily summer temp averages of 95º?
Ohh..if anyone is curious, the noise is very similar to rod knock, and only seems to occur around 2000-3000 rpm, higher rpm's tend to make a whining sound as if a belt is rubbing but no belts are rubbing
Jun 22, 2009, 11:40 AM
#4
I say stick with 5w-30 m1 EP. I'm at 4000 miles on mine. Taking it to 5000 miles. No oil level changes, no fuel smell, not fouling of spark plugs. Running great.
Jun 22, 2009, 02:38 PM
#5
now sit on that for a minute...
...
right. your evo makes more power. it has a turbo. it needs more protection.
Jun 22, 2009, 04:13 PM
#6
i thought this would be a given...but 0w-40 is a VERY, VERY thin oil. thinner oil = better gas mileage = less protection. you're talking about running a oil that the PRIUS uses on an EVO.
now sit on that for a minute...
...
right. your evo makes more power. it has a turbo. it needs more protection.
now sit on that for a minute...
...
right. your evo makes more power. it has a turbo. it needs more protection.
so a 0w-40 is thinner at start up and thicker at operating temp, rather than a 5w-30.
IIRC a Prius uses 5w-30 oil weight.
Jun 22, 2009, 04:17 PM
#7
i thought this would be a given...but 0w-40 is a VERY, VERY thin oil. thinner oil = better gas mileage = less protection. you're talking about running a oil that the PRIUS uses on an EVO.
now sit on that for a minute...
...
right. your evo makes more power. it has a turbo. it needs more protection.
now sit on that for a minute...
...
right. your evo makes more power. it has a turbo. it needs more protection.
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Jun 22, 2009, 04:18 PM
#8
ow40 is not necesary on your car, 10w30 will do the trick just fine ,, your issue is you need to find an oil thats up for the abuse turbocharged cars put on oils.
get a good synthetic thats made for turbo cars, i am not going to try to push AMSOIL up your nose i am going to leave it up to your research and the hundres of people that use AMSOIL on this forum to chime in.
get a good synthetic thats made for turbo cars, i am not going to try to push AMSOIL up your nose i am going to leave it up to your research and the hundres of people that use AMSOIL on this forum to chime in.
Jun 22, 2009, 04:35 PM
#9
ow40 is not necesary on your car, 10w30 will do the trick just fine ,, your issue is you need to find an oil thats up for the abuse turbocharged cars put on oils.
get a good synthetic thats made for turbo cars, i am not going to try to push AMSOIL up your nose i am going to leave it up to your research and the hundres of people that use AMSOIL on this forum to chime in.
get a good synthetic thats made for turbo cars, i am not going to try to push AMSOIL up your nose i am going to leave it up to your research and the hundres of people that use AMSOIL on this forum to chime in.
I think this is how it goes.
so the 0w-30 or 5w -30 is actually the same weight oil.
Jun 22, 2009, 04:36 PM
#10
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If there is something wrong with your motor, I don't think oil viscosity is the main culprit here. While you could run 0w40 in your motor, I think it would be overkill depending on your driving habits (push the car hard for short trips or racing). The cars rolling off the assembly lines, in most cases, have tighter clearances and thinner oil is recommended because of this. I would stick with a nice synthetic 0w30 and change it every 3K miles.
Jun 22, 2009, 04:38 PM
#11
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Yes, the W stands for "Winter", not "Weight". 0w30 and 5w30 are the exact same viscosity at 210F. The 0w oil would be thinner at start up but is still able to pour more effectively than 5w at lower temps.
Jun 22, 2009, 04:43 PM
#12
0w means it is thinner at the start up. Not generally a bad things, since start up is usually the harshest process for a cold engine. 40 means viscosity which means it thicker than a 30 weight at a similar operating temperature.
so a 0w-40 is thinner at start up and thicker at operating temp, rather than a 5w-30.
IIRC a Prius uses 5w-30 oil weight.
so a 0w-40 is thinner at start up and thicker at operating temp, rather than a 5w-30.
IIRC a Prius uses 5w-30 oil weight.
and you don't need 0w unless you're up in alaska. 5w would suffice.
fully warmed up, 0w-40 is thicker - you're right. i got it the other way around.
Jun 22, 2009, 05:01 PM
#13
The harshest parts comes from an "oil starvation" when the motor is not circulate the oil yet when you started. So the thinner oil will run through faster and there for do a job better.
Jun 22, 2009, 05:23 PM
#14
actually the 0W "thinner" oil help in those conditions, since flows easier then a "thicker" one. so the 0W is great for that.
The harshest parts comes from an "oil starvation" when the motor is not circulate the oil yet when you started. So the thinner oil will run through faster and there for do a job better.
The harshest parts comes from an "oil starvation" when the motor is not circulate the oil yet when you started. So the thinner oil will run through faster and there for do a job better.
Last edited by EndlessRed; Jun 22, 2009 at 05:25 PM.
