DIAMOND ATF-SP III Equivalent?
Oct 30, 2010, 07:53 AM
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DIAMOND ATF-SP III Equivalent?
I have searched the forums and Google and have not found a definative answer to what is a reliable equivalent to Diamond ATF SP III. I need to top off the fluid resevoir in the trunk for the torque transfer mechanism in the differential. The manual calls for Diamond ATF SPIII. I live 2 hours from the nearest Mitsu dealership and cannot find DIAMOND in any of the local automotive retailers, i.e. Autozone, Napa, oreilly's, etc. Is there an alternative that is the EQUIVALENT to the recommended fluid.
Please Help!
Please Help!
Oct 30, 2010, 08:28 AM
#2
I don't think there is an equivalent fluid. You could cause damage by using anything other than 
fluid. I don't recommend it. If I were you, I'd order it online from mitsubishiparts.net if you can't drive to get it.
Some fluids say they are equilvalent (such as valvoline ATF fluid), but I don't recommend it.
fluid. I don't recommend it. If I were you, I'd order it online from mitsubishiparts.net if you can't drive to get it.Some fluids say they are equilvalent (such as valvoline ATF fluid), but I don't recommend it.
Oct 30, 2010, 08:39 AM
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http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7028224
They should sell it at your local auto parts store. It meets the requirements for Mitsu ATF SP3
They should sell it at your local auto parts store. It meets the requirements for Mitsu ATF SP3
May 28, 2012, 07:05 PM
#4
I found this, as I am considering doing this as well:
Link to Castrol ATF specifications
I was worrying trying to find the right replacement fluid myself. Guess I feel pretty confident that this will meet the needs.
Link to Castrol ATF specifications
I was worrying trying to find the right replacement fluid myself. Guess I feel pretty confident that this will meet the needs.
May 28, 2012, 08:30 PM
#5
There are a bunch of fluids that say they are SP-III compatible and equivalent, but keep two things in mind: (1) Diamond SP-III is a darker red than any other I've seen, which means that a dealer could tell if you used something else, and (2) Mitsubishi seems to get off on warranty denials.
Your call.
Your call.
May 29, 2012, 11:16 PM
#6
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best fluid by far is AMSOIL fully synthetic ATF... and you can get it easily in the US..
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Jun 13, 2012, 12:16 PM
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the oils that should be oem fluids are the atf sp III for the rear diff (lsd side) and the gear oil for (pinion / gear side) and the center diff. both shep's and jacks recommend and use only these in their rebuilds. these guys use them for a reason since they have additives that others do not. tranny fluid is up to you.
Jun 13, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Wait timeout. Why should it be low to begin with? You do know that you check that with the Car stationary or off for at least 90 minutes so the pump isn't working.. here vvvvvvv Not taking time to make it a big pic..laziness. It should read around MIN when you have been driving. I checked mine one day and was all worried, then read my handy dandy owners manual
Last edited by HPEVOX; Jun 13, 2012 at 03:13 PM.
Jun 15, 2012, 02:41 PM
#13
I've been running Amsoil in everthing now for over 40,000 miles...75W-90 transmission fluid, 75W-90 Severe Gear for ACD and rear diff gear oil, and synthetic ATF for rear diff AYC clutches. Zero problems, zero complaints. Amsoil gear oil has the "additives" that everyone talks about, which is just a friction modifier for use with LSD's.
May 20, 2013, 11:05 AM
#15
I'm going to check with Ryan Gates and others that have heavily tracked Evo X's as well but apparently I'm pushing the car hard enough that the Rear Differential is overheating and causing the ATF fluid side to mist onto the back bumper. I recall Martin Musial of AMS had it spraying out the back of one of the Evo X GSR cars a couple years back when prepping for a One Lap of America event at Spring Mountain. I think the answer was that it was normal when pushed, disabling the AYC and replacing it with a previous gen unit isn't as attractive for me as an option though.
I haven't inspected the rear diff off the car but is there some kind of breather or excessive pressure relief valve for the torque transfer mechanism side that controls AYC? I'm using Redline Heavy Shockproof in the differential mechanism side which seems to hold up fine to the temps. The mist of ATF fluid is very annoying to clean up and only happens when pushing hot laps in time attacks like NARRA and is much less evident during HPDE events where traffic keeps the lap times and aggressiveness through the corners to a slower pace.
I already have tried placing a heat shield around the exhaust that routes past it and wrapped all the pressure lines leading from the trunk reservoir with heat reflective tape. This seems to have helped a bit but it still gets too hot with temps in the pits at 190*F after a full cool down lap based on my infrared temp gun. When I checked the fluid the rear reservoir was red in color while the ATF fluid in the differential was brown and burnt up. Even a full weekend of racing doesn't really drop the fluid levels because it's just leaving a residue for dust and other road dirt to stick to.
If there is a breather perhaps I can setup a catchcan system? Perhaps the Amsoil ATF SP III synthetic will control the heat better and also help. While warranty is important, the overheating never occurs on the street so I would never complain to them about it.
I haven't inspected the rear diff off the car but is there some kind of breather or excessive pressure relief valve for the torque transfer mechanism side that controls AYC? I'm using Redline Heavy Shockproof in the differential mechanism side which seems to hold up fine to the temps. The mist of ATF fluid is very annoying to clean up and only happens when pushing hot laps in time attacks like NARRA and is much less evident during HPDE events where traffic keeps the lap times and aggressiveness through the corners to a slower pace.
I already have tried placing a heat shield around the exhaust that routes past it and wrapped all the pressure lines leading from the trunk reservoir with heat reflective tape. This seems to have helped a bit but it still gets too hot with temps in the pits at 190*F after a full cool down lap based on my infrared temp gun. When I checked the fluid the rear reservoir was red in color while the ATF fluid in the differential was brown and burnt up. Even a full weekend of racing doesn't really drop the fluid levels because it's just leaving a residue for dust and other road dirt to stick to.
If there is a breather perhaps I can setup a catchcan system? Perhaps the Amsoil ATF SP III synthetic will control the heat better and also help. While warranty is important, the overheating never occurs on the street so I would never complain to them about it.